Change timing belt and idle speed servo kit.

The pressure switch on the master cylinder has nothing to do with the cruise control . The pressure switch as you call it is not a pressure switch at all . Brake fluid level sensor . The brake switch is under the dash on top of the brake pedal linkage (arm) .
Speed Control The vehicle speed control consists of the following components:

• speed control servo (9C735)
• speed control actuator cable (9A825)
• speed control indicator lamp
• speed control actuator switches (9D743)
• brake pedal position (BPP) switch (13480)
• deactivator switch
• anti-lock brake control module (2C018)
• clutch pedal position (CPP) switch
• Self-Test Diagnostics
  WARNING: This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in PARK only with parking brake fully engaged.
  
  • Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator lamp on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that the speed control module entered the diagnostic mode.
  NOTE: Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.
  
  • Release the OFF switch.
  • NOTE: If the ON switch is not pressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostic mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
    Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RSM (resume), CST (coast), and SET/ACCEL. The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is pressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the light goes out for the previous switch.
  • A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective. If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
    • Two flashes - Brake pedal position (BPP) switch is defective, circuit is defective, or brake pedal is applied; clutch pedal position (CPP) switch is defective, circuit is defective, or clutch pedal is applied.
    • Three flashes - Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is defective.
    • Four flashes - Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective.
  • Immediately after the static test has passed, the speed servo will then carry out a dynamic test automatically by actuating the throttle lever from 1mm to 10 mm of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe the throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of actuator cable, correct connection of actuator cable to throttle lever, and make sure the throttle returns back to idle position. If incorrect connection and/or binding or sticking of actuator is observed, go to the Symptom Chart. If dynamic pull at the throttle body is observed, Go To Pinpoint Test A .
  • Return the ignition switch to the OFF position and proceed to the Symptom Chart.
  Symptom Chart

Symptom Chart
NOTE: Self-Test Diagnostics must be carried out before proceeding to the Symptom Chart.
Symptom Chart Condition Possible Sources Action

• Flash code 1 - system pass

• -

• System Pass.

• Flash code 1 - no dynamic pull at throttle body

• Speed control actuator cable.
• Speed control servo.

• GO to Pinpoint Test A .

• Flash code 1 - speed control inoperative

• Circuitry.
• Speed control servo.

• GO to Pinpoint Test D .

• Flash code 2 - BBP switch circuit failure

• Circuitry.
• BPP switch.
• CPP switch or jumper.
• Speed control servo.

• GO to Pinpoint Test B .

• Flash code 3 - deactivator switch

• CJB Fuse 13 (20A).
• Circuitry.
• Deactivator switch.
• Speed control servo.

• GO to Pinpoint Test C .

• Flash code 4 - speed signal circuit failure

• Circuitry.
• Speed control servo.
• Anti-lock brake control module.

• GO to Pinpoint Test D .

• Flash code 5

• Speed control servo.

• INSTALL a new speed control servo. REFER to Actuator - Speed Control Servo . TEST the system for normal operation.

• The speed control is inoperative - no flash codes

• CJB Fuse 10 (7.5A).
• Circuitry.
• BPP switch.
• Speed control actuator switches (9D743).
• Anti-lock brake control module.
• Speed control servo.

• GO to Pinpoint Test E .

• The speed control does not disengage when the clutch is applied

• BPP switch.
• CPP switch (M/T).
• Circuitry.

• GO to Pinpoint Test F .

• The speed control switch is inoperative - COAST

• Speed control actuator switch.
• Speed control servo.

• GO to Pinpoint Test G .

• The speed control switch is inoperative - SET/ACCEL

• Speed control actuator switches.
• Speed control servo.

• GO to Pinpoint Test H .

• The speed control switch is inoperative - RESUME

• Speed control actuator switch.
• Speed control servo.

• GO to Pinpoint Test J .

• The speed control switch is inoperative - OFF

• Speed control actuator switch.
• Speed control servo.

• GO to Pinpoint Test K .

• The speed control indicator lamp is always on

• Circuitry.
• Speed control servo.
• Instrument cluster.

• GO to Pinpoint Test L .

• The speed control indicator is inoperative

• Circuitry.
• Bulb.
• Instrument cluster.
• Speed control servo.

• REFER to Section 413-01 .

• The set speed fluctuates

• Anti-lock brake control module.
• Speed control servo.
• Speed control actuator switch.
• Circuitry.
• Speed control actuator cable.

• GO to Pinpoint Test M .

• Engine (6007).

• REFER to Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual. REPAIR engine as necessary.

Which fuse ? There are two that supply B+ to the speed control servo ! One is located in the under hood fuse box and the other in the fuse panel inside the vehicle > The fuse may look fine but is there B+ voltage across the fuse . Check it with a volt meter . Check B+ voltage at the speed control servo , Black with yellow trace and P/O wire , what ever color that is . Is there B+ at the control switch ? The speed control servo supply's voltage to the cruise control switch . You can check it at the speed control servo as well . They could be videos on youtube showing how to test it .
Diagnose cruise control failure on 1993 Ford 150

• 3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
• • Flash code 3 - deactivator switch circuit failure
  • Central junction box (CJB) fuse 13 (20A).
  • Circuitry.
  • Deactivator switch.
  • Speed control servo.
  • Go To Pinpoint Test H .
  PINPOINT TEST H: FLASH CODE 3 - DEACTIVATOR SWITCH CIRCUIT FAILURE
• CONDITIONS DETAILS/RESULTS/ACTIONS H1 CHECK THE DEACTIVATOR SWITCH CIRCUITRY
  Speed Control Servo C122
  Measure the voltage between the speed control servo C122 pin 9, circuit 307 (BK/YE), harness side and the speed control servo C122 pin 10, circuit 57 (BK), harness side.
  
  • Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?
  Yes INSTALL a new speed control servo. REFER to Speed Control Servo in this section. REPEAT the self-test.
  
  No GO to H2 . H2 CHECK DEACTIVATOR SWITCH POWER
  Deactivator Switch C1025
  Measure the voltage between the deactivator switch C1025, circuit 10 (LG/RD), harness side and ground.
  
  • Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?
  Yes GO to H3 .
  
  No REPAIR the circuit. REPEAT the self-test. H3 CHECK CIRCUIT 307 (BK/YE) FOR AN OPEN Measure the resistance between the speed control servo C122 pin 9, circuit 307 (BK/YE), harness side and the deactivator switch C1025, circuit 307 (BK/YE), harness side.
  
  • Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
  Yes INSTALL a new deactivator switch. REFER to Speed Control Deactivator Switch in this section. REPEAT the self-test.
  
  No REPAIR the circuit. REPEAT the self-test.

Speed Control The speed control system consists of the following components:

• anti-lock brake control module
• brake pedal position (BPP) switch
• clutch pedal position (CPP) switch or jumper
• deactivator switch
• speed control actuator switches
• speed control servo
• speed control actuator cable
• speed control indicator
• brush assembly (Motorhome vehicles only)
• control and spring brush assembly (Motorhome vehicles only)
• Principles of Operation
  The speed control system is designed to maintain vehicle speed above 40 km/h (25 mph). After the ON switch is depressed, depressing the SET/ACCEL or COAST switch will activate the speed control servo. To increase a set speed, either depress and hold for continuous acceleration, or momentarily tap the SET/ACCEL switch for 1.6 km/h (1 mph) acceleration increments. To decrease a set speed, depress and hold the COAST switch until the target speed is reached, or momentarily tap the COAST switch for 1.6 km/h (1 mph) deceleration increments. When the speed control system has been disabled by tapping the brake pedal, the RESUME switch can be depressed and the vehicle will return to the original set speed if the vehicle is traveling over 40 km/h (25 mph) and the OFF switch has not been depressed.
  NOTE: The deactivator switch is provided as an additional safety feature. Normally, when the brake pedal is depressed, an electrical signal from the brake lamp circuit to the speed control servo will deactivate the system. Under increased brake pedal effort, the deactivator switch will open and remove power to the speed control servo, releasing the throttle independently of the speed control servo.
  NOTE: The air bag sliding contact provides the electrical interface between the steering column wiring and the speed control actuator switches in the steering wheel.
  The inputs to the speed control servo are:
  
  • vehicle speed signal
  • speed control actuator switches
  • brake pedal position (BPP) switch
  • clutch pedal position (CPP) switch (if equipped)
  • deactivator switch
  The outputs of the speed control servo are:
  
  • speed control indicator (Excursion and Super Duty)
  • speed control cable controlling the throttle position
  Inspection and Verification
  NOTE: If any concerns are noted with the speedometer or horn, address those concerns by referring to their associated sections before continuing speed control diagnosis.
  NOTE: When in speed control mode, initial depression of the clutch pedal may cause a normal momentary increase of engine rpm.
  NOTE: If the vehicle is a diesel, refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual.
  
  1. Verify the customer concern by operating the speed control system.
  1. Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical and electrical damage.
  
  
  Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical
  • Speed control cable
  • Speed control cable not attached to throttle
  • Central junction box (CJB) Fuse:
    • 6 (15A) (Excursion)
    • 8 (10A) (Motorhome)
    • 13 (20A) (Excursion, Super Duty)
    • 15 (5A) (Super Duty, Excursion)
    • 28 (10A) (Super Duty, Motorhome)
  • Speed control actuator switches
  • Brake pedal position (BPP) switch
  • Clutch pedal position (CPP) switch (if equipped)
  • Deactivator switch
  • Speed control servo
  • Wiring
  • Loose, corroded, or dirty connections
  • Bulb (Excursion and Super Duty)
  
  
  1. If the fault is not visually evident, go to the Self-Test Diagnostics - Excursion or Super Duty (Excursion, Super Duty), or verify the symptom and proceed to the Symptom Chart (Motorhome).
  2. Self-Test Diagnostics - Excursion, Super Duty
     WARNING: This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.
     
     1. Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.
     1. Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
        IF THE "ON" SWITCH IS NOT DEPRESSED WITHIN FIVE SECONDS AFTER ENTERING THE DIAGNOSTICS MODE, THE MODULE TIMES OUT AND THE PROCEDURE MUST BE STARTED OVER.
        The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
     1. A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
        If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
     • 2 Flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
     • 3 Flashes - Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
     • 4 Flashes - Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective.
     1. Immediately after the STATIC test, the speed control servo does a DYNAMIC test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the DYNAMIC throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the THROTTLE RETURNS BACK TO IDLE POSITION.
     1. Return ignition switch to the OFF position and proceed to the Symptom Chart.

It should have a fuse! check manual in glove box. Also , Brake light out in most newer vehichles keeps cruise from working

Check the following areas in order to address this issue.

1. Check Drive Belts - The air conditioner utilizes a drive belt that supplies power to rotate the compressor, which is basically a refrigerant pump. If the belt fails the compressor has nothing to drive it, inspect and replace as needed to restore operation. If belt is intact proceed to the next step.

2. Check for Compressor Clutch Engagement - Turn the air conditioner to the "on" position and set controls to the coldest setting. Start the engine and allow to idle. Then open the hood and inspect the clutch at the front of the compressor, is it turning? "Engaged" if so, the system has enough refrigerant to activate. If the system is low on refrigerant it will not work properly. In this case an air conditioner recharge kit is needed to recharge the system. If the system is low on refrigerant it could cycle on and off, making a ticking noise. If the compressor clutch is not turning proceed to next step.

3. Inspect for Refrigerant Leaks - If the system has a large leak and no refrigerant remains it will not activate. First test system for a static pressure charge, with the engine off attach an ac gauge to the low side pressure port and check the state of charge. Depending on outside temperature there should be between 50 psi and 80 psi. (Cool and warm). A refrigerant leak detector is needed to inspect for leak, but if you do not have a leak detector there is an alternative method. The air conditioner system is designed to run with oil suspended in the refrigerant to lubricate the system. Check for oily residue outside the system by inspecting all hoses, compressor, condenser, evaporator or receiver drier and replace any component that has failed.

4. Inspect Fuses - Check under dash panel and under hood power distribution center. Replace failed fuses as needed, recheck system. If the new fuse fails when reinstalled a short circuit is present and requires diagnosing with a wiring schematic, follow circuits to locate short, repair as needed and recheck system.

5. Check Temperature Control Vents - The vents inside your car are controlled by a cable, electrical servo or vacuum servo. If the temperature blend door is not functioning properly it will cause warm air from the heater to exit the vents. To check this start the car and allow the engine idle, next turn the blower motor speed on low, switch the temperature control from warm to cold while your ear is close to the vents. You should hear the door move inside the heater box as it swings from open to close. If not, insect for a vacuum leak or a shorted motor in the servo, repair the leak or replace the servo motor.

Hi...
Perform the following basic Checks and Information
1. Check Drive Belts,If belt is intact proceed to the next step.
2. Check for Compressor Clutch Engagement - Turn the air conditioner to the "on" position and set controls to the coldest setting. Start the engine and allow to idle. Then open the hood and inspect the clutch at the front of the compressor, is it turning? "Engaged" if so, the system has enough refrigerant to activate. If the system is low on refrigerant it will not work properly. In this case an air conditioner recharge kit is needed to recharge the system. If the compressor clutch is not turning proceed to next step.
3. Inspect for Refrigerant Leaks
4. Check under dash panel and under hood power distribution center
5. Check Temperature Control Vents - The vents inside your car are controlled by a cable, electrical servo or vacuum servo. If the vent door is not functioning properly it will cause warm air from the heater to exit the vents. To check this start the car and allow the engine idle, next turn the blower motor speed on low, switch the temperature control from warm to cold while your ear is close to the vents. You should hear the door move inside the heater box as it swings from open to close. If not, inspect for a vacuum leak or a shorted motor in the servo, repair the leak or replace the servo motor.
Thanks
Smith

HI. I have put together some very important check points that you should use to isolate the issue that concerns this inoperable AC system.

1. Check Drive Belts - The air conditioner utilizes a drive belt that supplies power to rotate the compressor, which is basically a refrigerant pump. If the belt fails the compressor has nothing to drive it, inspect and replace as needed to restore operation. If belt is intact proceed to the next step.

2. Check for Compressor Clutch Engagement - Turn the air conditioner to the "on" position and set controls to the coldest setting. Start the engine and allow to idle. Then open the hood and inspect the clutch at the front of the compressor, is it turning? "Engaged" if so, the system has enough refrigerant to activate. If the system is low on refrigerant it will not work properly. In this case an air conditioner recharge kit is needed to recharge the system. If the system is low on refrigerant it could cycle on and off, making a ticking noise. If the compressor clutch is not turning proceed to next step.

3. Inspect for Refrigerant Leaks - If the system has a large leak and no refrigerant remains it will not activate. First test system for a static pressure charge, with the engine off attach an ac gauge to the low side pressure port and check the state of charge. Depending on outside temperature there should be between 50 psi and 80 psi. (Cool and warm). A refrigerant leak detector is needed to inspect for leak, but if you do not have a leak detector there is an alternative method. The air conditioner system is designed to run with oil suspended in the refrigerant to lubricate the system. Check for oily residue outside the system by inspecting all hoses, compressor, condenser, evaporator or receiver drier and replace any component that has failed.

4. Inspect Fuses - Check under dash panel and under hood power distribution center. Replace failed fuses as needed, recheck system. If the new fuse fails when reinstalled a short circuit is present and requires diagnosing with a wiring schematic, follow circuits to locate short, repair as needed and recheck system.

5. Check Temperature Control Vents - The vents inside your car are controlled by a cable, electrical servo or vacuum servo. If the temperature blend door is not functioning properly it will cause warm air from the heater to exit the vents. To check this start the car and allow the engine idle, next turn the blower motor speed on low, switch the temperature control from warm to cold while your ear is close to the vents. You should hear the door move inside the heater box as it swings from open to close. If not, insect for a vacuum leak or a shorted motor in the servo, repair the leak or replace the servo motor.

HI. Here is a complete check list that will help you trouble shot thsi issue. You will find the problem in one or more of these areas stated below.

1. Check Drive Belts - The air conditioner utilizes a drive belt that supplies power to rotate the compressor, which is basically a refrigerant pump. If the belt fails the compressor has nothing to drive it, inspect and replace as needed to restore operation. If belt is intact proceed to the next step.

2. Check for Compressor Clutch Engagement - Turn the air conditioner to the "on" position and set controls to the coldest setting. Start the engine and allow to idle. Then open the hood and inspect the clutch at the front of the compressor, is it turning? "Engaged" if so, the system has enough refrigerant to activate. If the system is low on refrigerant it will not work properly. In this case an air conditioner recharge kit is needed to recharge the system. If the system is low on refrigerant it could cycle on and off, making a ticking noise. If the compressor clutch is not turning proceed to next step.

3. Inspect for Refrigerant Leaks - If the system has a large leak and no refrigerant remains it will not activate. First test system for a static pressure charge, with the engine off attach an ac gauge to the low side pressure port and check the state of charge. Depending on outside temperature there should be between 50 psi and 80 psi. (Cool and warm). A refrigerant leak detector is needed to inspect for leak, but if you do not have a leak detector there is an alternative method. The air conditioner system is designed to run with oil suspended in the refrigerant to lubricate the system. Check for oily residue outside the system by inspecting all hoses, compressor, condenser, evaporator or receiver drier and replace any component that has failed.

4. Inspect Fuses - Check under dash panel and under hood power distribution center. Replace failed fuses as needed, recheck system. If the new fuse fails when reinstalled a short circuit is present and requires diagnosing with a wiring schematic, follow circuits to locate short, repair as needed and recheck system.

5. Check Temperature Control Vents - The vents inside your car are controlled by a cable, electrical servo or vacuum servo. If the temperature blend door is not functioning properly it will cause warm air from the heater to exit the vents. To check this start the car and allow the engine idle, next turn the blower motor speed on low, switch the temperature control from warm to cold while your ear is close to the vents. You should hear the door move inside the heater box as it swings from open to close. If not, insect for a vacuum leak or a shorted motor in the servo, repair the leak or replace the servo motor...

HI. Here is a complete check list that will help you trouble shot this issue. You will find the problem in one or more of these areas stated below.

1. Check Drive Belts - The air conditioner utilizes a drive belt that supplies power to rotate the compressor, which is basically a refrigerant pump. If the belt fails the compressor has nothing to drive it, inspect and replace as needed to restore operation. If belt is intact proceed to the next step.

2. Check for Compressor Clutch Engagement - Turn the air conditioner to the "on" position and set controls to the coldest setting. Start the engine and allow to idle. Then open the hood and inspect the clutch at the front of the compressor, is it turning? "Engaged" if so, the system has enough refrigerant to activate. If the system is low on refrigerant it will not work properly. In this case an air conditioner recharge kit is needed to recharge the system. If the system is low on refrigerant it could cycle on and off, making a ticking noise. If the compressor clutch is not turning proceed to next step.

3. Inspect for Refrigerant Leaks - If the system has a large leak and no refrigerant remains it will not activate. First test system for a static pressure charge, with the engine off attach an ac gauge to the low side pressure port and check the state of charge. Depending on outside temperature there should be between 50 psi and 80 psi. (Cool and warm). A refrigerant leak detector is needed to inspect for leak, but if you do not have a leak detector there is an alternative method. The air conditioner system is designed to run with oil suspended in the refrigerant to lubricate the system. Check for oily residue outside the system by inspecting all hoses, compressor, condenser, evaporator or receiver drier and replace any component that has failed.

4. Inspect Fuses - Check under dash panel and under hood power distribution center. Replace failed fuses as needed, recheck system. If the new fuse fails when reinstalled a short circuit is present and requires diagnosing with a wiring schematic, follow circuits to locate short, repair as needed and recheck system.

5. Check Temperature Control Vents - The vents inside your car are controlled by a cable, electrical servo or vacuum servo. If the temperature blend door is not functioning properly it will cause warm air from the heater to exit the vents. To check this start the car and allow the engine idle, next turn the blower motor speed on low, switch the temperature control from warm to cold while your ear is close to the vents. You should hear the door move inside the heater box as it swings from open to close. If not, insect for a vacuum leak or a shorted motor in the servo, repair the leak or replace the servo motor.