How to get to air fuel mixture screws for adjustment with carb on engine, no room to get flex screw driver to the screws ! This is on a 1984 Ford E-150 van with a 302.

try turning on the ignition without starting it and see if you can hear the fuel pump humm. if nothing then probably fuel pump but i wouldnt mess with the carb unless you know what your doing that screw could be controling your fuel air mixture

You probably need to adjust the air/fuel mixture screws. Sounds like its running a little too rich. When you first start the engine, is the idle speed real low? If it is, then this is more evidence that its running rich

You have two setting screws on front of carb, You start off by adjusting all the way to the left, Then back off 3/4 turn to both setting screws, Then you have to set your air fuel mixture by just slowly turn your setting clock wise do so until vibration go away. Sorry there is no easy way to explain, Good luck to you,

this helped me a lot

Here are some images that might help to assist you, and let me know if you require any further assistance.


Adjust the curb idle with the engine warmed up and the choke off.




The air/fuel mixture screws should be adjusted with the engine warmed up and at normal idle speed, then turn each air/fuel mixture screw in one at a time until the engine just begins to mis-fire, then back the air/fuel mixture screw out 1-1/2 to 2 turns out a half a turn at a time until the engine idle is the smoothest. (your vehicle might have restrictor caps over the air/fuel mixture screws to limit the amount of adjustment)






The choke adjustments;






To adjust the vacuum tension pull on the choke pull-off:





Adjust the fast idle screw to the proper RPM with the engine cold and the choke on.

In the late 70's they mandated that the adjustment screws be capped over. If they haven't been exposed, there will be two plugs covering them on the baseplate. Air adjustment screws are always somewhere on the base of all carbs with the only exception being on Holley 4bbl carbs used on performance engines (definitely not yours)

it has a metal cap on it and has to be drilled out and ajusted by a licenced mechanic if your talking about the fuel mixture for the idel it's on the cabe near the body of the carburator.

There should be one screw (I'm assuming it's the Carter YF carburetor 1 barrel) that's by itself away from linkages etc, more to center at base of carb where it meets manifold, that is angled approx 45 degrees going in to base. That should be your mixture screw. What symptoms are you experiencing anyway?

Yes, Colorado is much higher in altitude. Do to higher altitude the barometric pressure is less than sea level by a long shot. Lower barometric pressure mean that less air is entering your engine. Which in turns mean that your engine is now running richer than it was at a a lower altitude. So I recommend checking you engine timing, and adjusting your carbs air/fuel mixture. yes this means that you may need to rejet. but first there is a screw on your 22r's carb that you must adjust to lean the air mixture just right. I have had a stock 22r carbortor before and never had to rejet it. i probibly should have but it ran fine at sea level and all the way to about 10000 ft. after 10000 feet i had to lean the fuel mixture to even alow the engine to run. This screw that you must turn is hidden due to toyota not wanting you to tamper with it and burn your engine to the ground by running your engine to lean. it has a metal plug on the passenger side of the carb about the size of a pencil eraser. you must drill that out and then you can adjust the air fuel mixture. Clock wise is to lean the air fuel. and Counter clock wise is to richen the air fuel mixture.A good rule of thumb is to turn the air/fuel screw all the way clock wise and then back out about 2 and 1/2 turns. That is the factory adjustment. you may only need 2 turns out. Best of luck i hope you get it running perfect. Try this adjustment first then if it still runs rich then think about rejetting.

Here is a picture of what i am talking about.

#1 is the air/fuel mixture, #2 and #3 are cold and warm idle screws.
#4 is a A/c idle adjustment.

You will need a vacuum and Tach meter guage, when the highest vaccum/RPM reading is reached the air fuel is near perfect, make sure you start lean and slowly turn the mixture screws out ( or in depending on carb type) evenly, reset idle speed if ness, as it can increase allot. In order to meet emission tests and get better fuel economy I would lean each screw 1/4 turn from best vaccum/RPM setting. Also verify the ignition timing is correct before any adjustment is made and engine is at operating temp.