Colorado 2005 3.5l start and not crank when the engine is off 30 minute at hot no fault. fuel pressure is good.Crank sensor is new.Start 2 times and engine crank. Eric Tank you

FORD F350 SUPER-DUTY WITH V10 RIGHT? 6.8 liters
scanning the PCM shows no DTC errors>?

CRANKS FAST, BUT WILL NOT START,?
OR DOES NOT CRANK AT ALL, STARTER MOTOR DEAD?
ENGINE STALLED DRIVING? YES.
does a fast right foot save the stall when it does,?>>????????
OR FAILS AFTER KEY OFF AND HOT SOAK.?
does adding 5% throttle , cranking allow a start now>?

if yes, ISC valve is bad ,.or just dirty takes air to start any engine.
KEY OFF , AND THEN START AGAIN, QUICKLY STARTS OK?
OR ONLY KEY OFF WAIT 30MIN, AND WILL NOT CRANK OR WILL NO START OR STARTS FOR 1 TO 10 SECONDS AND STALLS
TELL THE GOOD AND THE BAD AND ANSWERS GO 10X BETTER!

THE CAR DOES NOT HAVE 1YEAR OLD+ FUEL IN IT RIGHT?

ever do a tune a full in 24 years. all filters new. (engine)
all spark plugs >?
and 10 new COP boots for the 10 spark coils>.?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1999,f-350+super+duty,6.8l+v10,1354654,ignition,spark+plug+/+ignition+coil+boot,10150


NO TBW here, ever clean TV back sides and front in the TB
throttle valve in the throttle body, cleaned, not gunked up
with IAC CLEANED TOO.?

IF THE CAR STOPS CRANKING SAY SO AND IGNORE MY POST

KEY OFF THE PCM OPENS THE VALVE BY READING THE ECT
AND LOOKS UP BEST AIR FLOW .LAST RECORDED
AT THIS CURRENT COOLANT TEMP.
IF IAC BELOW IS JAMMED AND GUNKED UP IT WILL NOT WANT TO START. AT TIMES, OR AT ALL.

you might try starting fluid in air horn to see if it tries to run, then at least you would know it is not an ignition problem and only on the fuel side. Maybe wiring connector to crank sensor is bad. Really not sure how you would check if Anti-theft is preventing starting, but keys are only 1/2 of system and PCM is the other.

we dont have this engine here, USA.
but i have the WG jeep book,
starting page 12 , chapter 14


FUEL INJECTION PUMP BLEEDING
(1) If the fuel injection pump has been replaced,
air should be bled at the overflow valve before
attempting to start engine.
(a) Loosen the overflow valve (Fig. 18) at the
rear of the injection pump.
(b) Place a towel below the valve.
WARNING: WHEN CRANKING THE ENGINE TO
BLEED AIR FROM THE INJECTION PUMP, THE
ENGINE MAY START. PLACE THE TRANSMISSION
IN NEUTRAL OR PARK AND SET PARKING BRAKE
BEFORE ENGAGING THE STARTER MOTOR.
CAUTION: Do not engage the starter motor for
more than 30 seconds at a time. Allow 2 minutes
between cranking intervals.
(2) Crank the engine for 30 seconds at a time to
allow air trapped in the injection pump to vent out
the fuel injector drain tubes. Continue this procedure
until the engine starts. Observe the previous WARNING
and CAUTION.
(3) Tighten overflow valve.
HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LINE BLEEDING
WARNING: THE INJECTION PUMP SUPPLIES HIGH-
-PRESSURE FUEL OF APPROXIMATELY 45,000 KPA
(6,526 PSI) TO EACH INDIVIDUAL INJECTOR
THROUGH THE HIGH-PRESSURE LINES. FUEL
UNDER THIS AMOUNT OF PRESSURE CAN PENETRATE
THE SKIN AND CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY.
WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES AND ADEQUATE PROTECTIVE
CLOTHING AND AVOID CONTACT WITH
FUEL SPRAY WHEN BLEEDING HIGH-PRESSURE
FUEL LINES.
WARNING: DO NOT BLEED AIR FROM THE FUEL
SYSTEM OF A HOT ENGINE. DO NOT ALLOW FUEL
TO SPRAY ONTO THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD WHEN
BLEEDING AIR FROM THE FUEL SYSTEM.
Bleed air from one injector at time.
(1) Loosen the high-pressure fuel line fitting at
the injector (Fig. 19).
(2) Crank the engine until all air has been bled
from the line. Do not operate the starter motor
for longer than 30 seconds. Wait 2 minutes
between cranking intervals.
(3) Start the engine and bleed one injector at a
time until the engine runs smoothly.

end quote.
pump timing is on next page
or tank filter line priming before. above.

if it shuts off while driving down the road. and restarts after 10 minutes, its usually a bad crank sensor that does this. it messes up timing and shuts off fuel supply.

When it doesn't start, is it from a stone cold engine or is the engine warmed up and the 20 or 30 minutes lets it cool down? If it's warn then, I'd be going after the CPS (crank position sensor) sometimes they work fine when the car is cold but then they do not want to start when it hot. If it is the sensor, it will only get worse over time and leave you stranded.

Whe it won't start check to see if you have spark from one of the ignition wires. Typically when the crank sensor goes bad the car will stall as you are driving. If you have spark but the car will not start than the crank sensor is fine, Find the fuel pressure regulator located on the passenger side of the fuel rail. There will be a vacuum hose attached to the top. Remove the vacuum hose. Try to start the car. If fuel comes out of the pressure regulator where the hose was attached than the regulator is bad. If there is no fuel coming out of the regulator and you have spark try this. Turn the key to the run position, do not try to start, count to three. Turn the key off and then right back to the run position and count to three again. Do this 3 to five times. Then try to start. If it start right up you have a fuel issue and possibly the check valve at the fuel pump has gone bad. Good luck, let me know what you find.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

could be a number of possible faults.1/crank sensor not working when hot,trace this and pour cold water on it(dont do this if it is not by crank pulley as water isnt good for modules etc) and retry.2/sparkplugs worn,but usually they would fault more on cold start.3/fuel pump cuts out when run,try wacking tank from underneath and retry.though I would concentrate on nil spark caused by a faulty ignition module or crank sensor.
Next time it fails to start.pull off a sparkplug lead,make a quick test plug with an old(but working)sparkplug.pull the side wire away from the center electrode 5mm and insert into plug lead.earth ground the plug on its thread against metal on the engine.crank and check for spark visually,don't be tempted to hold the plug while cranking.if nil spark we will have to test further which is faulty sensor.if it sparks ok we will need to test for fuel.
testing for fuel is easy.
when it fails,unclip air filter housing,while engine is being cranked,spray an aerosol based carburettor cleaner into air duct to engine,it should start and run while spraying and stop when you stop spraying if fuel delivery is the fault.fuel pump will then need testing/replacing.
be careful not to spray onto ignition or any areas of spark

Timing belt/chain may have been put it slightly off time, when motor rebuild

Have you replaced the crank sensor? The crank sensor on top of the trans. bell housing does control the injector pulse through the ECM.
The sensor is a common problem with the Jeeps. Sometimes the sensor stops working when the engine is hot and will start again when it cools off and sometimes it dies from oil leaking on top of it or it just dies.

Four things you need to have combustion - Spark, Air, Fuel, and TIMING. I would look into the crank position sensor wiring. This would effect the timing. Then no matter how much spark and fuel you have, it will not start. If the crank position sensor goes out, it will die while you are driving it, but it that sensor goes bad it will not start back up. But if there is a back connection in the wiring especailly on the ground side, the the resistance will build up when the vehicle get hot. Which could cause it to make it seem like a fault has occured in CKP sensor. A scanner might catch a code for this. A good scanner that can graph will be the real way to go to know for sure.