1990 buick centruty, driver door schematic (window regulator)

There are a few possibilities here:

1. The Window regulator, cable track mechanism has failed, this usually results in a window that either falls down and can be pulled somewhat freely up and down in the track if glass can be grasped easily. if so, you'll need a regulator and to have door taken apart

2. Electrical issue, faulty switch contacts, faulty switch relay, or faulty regulator motor.
First determine if the window motor will not move from either the master switch or the actual door switch, if the switches and relay are making up you may hear the motor react and your interior lights may dim a little if engine isn't running, indicating motor receiving energy from switches. If motor seems to be powering up and not able to move window then you're looking at a regulator again, The rear door window switches could be exchanged one side to other if the switch is suspect but that may also require door panel removal. The most common reason to suspect a switch is if the rear switch is inoperative but the master switch can operate the window, or if only one direction on the window switch works but other doesn't at all.

I could see one window not working from a broken wire inside the door flex , but not both back windows . Back windows are controlled by LF door module . Both back windows have different grounds - LR G200 an RR G201 . Also both rear window switches have different power supply's .RR switch fuse # 18 30 amp . LR is fuse b# 9 40 amp . Both window motors or switche's going out at same time ???? wouldn't think so .

• Driver door module circuits open/shorted.
• Loose, corroded connectors.
• Damaged window regulator control switch.
• Damaged window regulator electric drive.
• Open fuse in fuse junction panel Fuse 39 (10A), 28 (10A), 30 (10A).
• Open fuse in power distribution box Fuse 9 (40A), 10 (40A), 8 (40A).
• Glass, Frames and Mechanisms
  
  Inspection and Verification
  
  1. Verify the customer's concern by operating the power windows/heated back window to duplicate the condition.
  1. Inspect to determine if one of the following mechanical or electrical concerns apply:
     
     
     VISUAL INSPECTION CHART Mechanical Electrical
     • Front door power window regulator damaged.
     • Front window run damaged.
     • Front door window glass out of window run.
     • Front door window glass broken.
     • Driver door module circuits open/shorted.
     • Loose, corroded connectors.
     • Damaged window regulator control switch.
     • Damaged window regulator electric drive.
     • Open fuse in fuse junction panel Fuse 39 (10A), 28 (10A), 30 (10A).
     • Open fuse in power distribution box Fuse 9 (40A), 10 (40A), 8 (40A).
     • Scratched grid.
  1. If inspection reveals an obvious concern that is readily serviced, correct the concern before continuing with Inspection and Verification.
  1. If the concern remains after inspection, connect the Rotunda New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 007-00500 or equivalent to the data link connector (DLC) located beneath the instrument panel to perform DATA LINK DIAGNOSTICS test. If the NGS responds with NO RESPONSE/NOT EQUIPPED for the driver door module, go to Pinpoint Test A . If the NGS responds with NO RESPONSE/NOT EQUIPPED for the lighting control module, go to Pinpoint Test B . If the DATA LINK DIAGNOSTICS test is passed for the drivers door module and lighting control module, retrieve continuous DTCs and execute Self Test Diagnostics for the driver door module and lighting control module to retrieve current DTCs.
  1. If self test is passed and no DTCs are retrieved, go to the Symptom Chart to continue diagnostics.
  1. If DTCs are retrieved, go to the Driver Door Module (DDM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index or Lighting Control Module (LCM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index to continue diagnostics.
  1. If the driver door module cannot be accessed by the NGS, GO to Pinpoint Test A . If the lighting control module cannot be accessed by the NGS, go to Pinpoint Test B .
  Rotunda Service Bay Diagnostic System (SBDS®) 001-00001 may also be used to diagnose this system.
  
  • Power Windows Completely Inoperative
  • Supply open or shorted.
  • Ground open.
  • Window regulator control switch inoperative.
  • Circuits open or shorted.
  • Window regulator electric drive inoperative.
  • Driver door module.
  • PERFORM driver door module self test. Service DTCs. If no DTCs are retrieved, GO to Pinpoint Test C .
  • Single Power Window Inoperative
  • Window regulator electric drive circuits.
  • Window regulator electric drive.
  • Window regulator control switch circuits.
  • Window regulator control switch.
  • Driver door module.
  • GO to Pinpoint Test D .

you need to remove the door panel on the door in question be careful to remove any hidden screws. there is a weather barrier that is glued to the door remove but don't tear it up to bad this is the protection for electrical components against water in the door panel. after removing panel and weather barrier I would turn the ignition on unplug the motor wire connector and operate the switch and see if you are getting power. if you are not getting power there is another problem. if you are getting power then remove the bolts securing the window to the regulator, this will probably require unbolting the regulator from the door to gain access to the bolts. after window is un bolted you can either remove the window track moldings and remove the window or use suction cups above the window moldings to hold window in place while removing regulator. replace in reverse order and your done. also be careful if you remove motor from regulator some have a spring on the regulator to assist in the operation of the motor and when motor is removed the regulator will release and spin not a good thing if your fingers are in the path.

The master switch is the one located on the drivers side. If this switch has a malfunction it can rob power from the passenger side causing the problem you have. If the regulator/motor are in working order and you know the passenger switch is ok then that could be the problem. Another couple of possible problems could be a broken wire in the harness traveling from the car to the door (inside the rubber protective boot or a weak window motor (1990 is pretty old for a motor of that type.

from Ehow.com. Long answer
All Buick automobiles now have powered windows for both front and back doors. These powered windows use a motor attached to a continuous screw that lifts and lowers a lattice device for opening and closing the window. Each window also has a window regulator to tell the motor when to stop both lowering the window and raising it into place. Occasionally, this regulator will become faulty and need to be replaced. Although not a difficult procedure, it does mean having to disassemble the Buick's door.
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Door Armrest
1. The first thing to do is remove the Buick's armrest on the door. Underneath the armrest, hidden from view, are large screws that go all the way into the doorframe. Remove all of these screws and the armrest will come free. Once it's loose, carefully disconnect all the wires to the remote control switches. The driver door armrest will have more wires than the other doors. Door Panel
2. Once you've removed the armrest, you can take off the inside door panel. Start by going all the way around the door's edges and removing all the fasteners. Once you've removed these may find some clips holding the panel tight, depending on your model Buick. Carefully unfasten these and then work the door panel up off its guide at the top of the door next to the window opening and around the car door handle. If your Buick has a door-mounted nightlight, disconnect the wires to the accessory. This will give you access to the door's interior. Removing the Old Regulator
3. Inside the door there are two components with electrical wires: the motor and the regulator. The motor is attached to a long threaded bolt. Remove the wires connected to the regulator and then the screws mounting the regulator to the doorframe. Be careful not to scratch the window with the screwdriver when working in these close quarters. Once the regulator is free inside the door, lift it out of the door. Installing the New Regulator
4. Installation is just doing the removal procedure in reverse: put the regulator in the door, secure it, connect the wires (no need to solder; the wires are connected with tabs), and reattach the door panel, the switch wiring and the arm rest.
   
   It should take no longer than an hour to complete this project. One quick warning, however---never force or strain any part to remove it. If a component does not come free easily, then check again for an extra screw or retaining clip. Don't get frustrated and break something that ends up being more expensive than the cost of the new regulator!

Read more: Best Way - Buick Window Regulator Installation Instructions | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/way_6510604_buick-window-regulator-installation-instructions.html#ixzz0uQJxAMM2

Hello there:
There is a window regulator that is attached to the window motor that keeps the window in place.
You will need to remove the dorro panel and remove the window regulator and replace it with a new one and this will solve your problem ok?
Hope this is very helpful for you
Best regards Michael

I own a 2000 Buick LeSabre which also has problems with the electric windows. I do not believe there is a recall, but the problem is with the cable attaching the regulator to the motor. These little cables break often. To repair the door panel will need to be removed and a new regulator with motor will have to be installed.

Tape and secure window, replace rivets with 1/4 nut and bolts.

This may be just a case of inadvertently hitting the window lock out n th driver door window switch by mistake. Check that first. Here's some background on window operation

Principles of Operation
The driver power window regulator motor is controlled directly by the master window/door lock/unlock switch (and its integrated "auto down" module). Power is supplied to the power window relay and the master window/door lock/unlock switch, and the passenger power window switch when the SEC/timer module grounds the coil side of the power window relay. The SEC/timer module will ground this relay when the ignition is in the ON position and will remain energized for approximately 15 minutes or until the driver or passenger door is opened.
The driver power window regulator motor is a reversible motor that is operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to lower the window, and then reversing polarity on those leads to raise the window.
The passenger power window regulator motor is controlled directly by the passenger power window switch and can also be controlled by the master window/door lock/unlock switch. Power is supplied to the power window relay and the master window/door lock/unlock switch, and the passenger power window switch when the SEC/timer module grounds the coil side of the power window relay. The SEC/timer module will ground this relay when the ignition is in the ON position and will remain energized for approximately 15 minutes or until the driver or passenger door is opened.
The passenger power window regulator motor is a reversible motor, which is operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to lower the window, and then reversing polarity on those leads to raise the window.
The power rear quarter glass is also directly controlled by the master window/door lock/unlock switch. The power rear quarter glass power latches also utilize reversible motors. The power rear quarter glass power latches are operated by applying power and ground to the motor leads to open the window, and then reversing polarity on those same leads to close the window.
Symptom Chart Condition Possible Sources Action

• All windows are inoperative

• BJB Fuse:
  • F20.
• Circuit.
• Power window relay.
• Front door power window switch.

• GO to Pinpoint Test A .

• Single power window is inoperative

• Front door power window switch.
• Front door power window regulator.
• Circuit.
• Driver door power window switch.

• GO to Pinpoint Test B .

• Vent power window is inoperative — quarter window glass power latch

• Circuit.
• Quarter window glass switch.
• Quarter window glass power latch.

• GO to Pinpoint Test C .

• The one touch down feature is inoperative

• Master window regulator and door lock switch.

• INSTALL a new master window/door lock/unlock switch. REFER to Switch—Master Window Door Lock/Unlock .

• The back window will not defrost

• CJB Fuses:
  • F30 (10A).
  • F32 (20A).
  • F34 (20A).
• BJB Fuse:
  • F27 (45A)
• Circuit.
• Heated back window switch.
• SEC/timer module.
• Rear window defrost relay.

• GO to Pinpoint Test D .

• The back window defrost will not shut off automatically

• SEC/timer module.
• Circuit.
• Rear window defrost relay.

• GO to Pinpoint Test E .

Replace the Window Regulators and maybe the motors. Sounds like the drivers window has done what mine did and the cog has rolled off the end and jammed on the regulator. Reg's are cheap (£35 or so), make sure you buy some panel clips for the door trims as you will break some! A trim removal tool is also recommended. Clips are a few quid, tool is usually around £10 or so.