Mazda 929 1990,having problem w/ my idler specially in the morning,the idler goes up to 2 instead going down..i change the idler control unit..ty..

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to year model category.

Check the Automatic Transmission level, but you may have solenoids that are failing.

It has known transmission issues.

https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+Mazda+3.+The+transmission+goes+into+2nd+gear+when+I+start+in+the+mornings

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There may be moisture in the transmission fluid that is causing ice to block the valves. When the transmission is hot, change the fuid

Sounds like the idler wheel is out bad bearing in it spray in the idler wheel wd 40 or penetrating oil see if noise goes away for a while.

The following items on your Mazda have ball bearings, and are on the passenger side.
1) Wheel bearings, front and rear.
2) CV joints, inner and outer.
3) Alternator, front and rear.
4) Power steering pump.
5) Water pump.
6) Idler pulley and/or tensioner pulley.
7) A.C. Compressor.
8) a few I may have missed.

The first thing you need done here is to have the dealer or a shop scan the ECM (computer) for fault codes, this could be just a defective electronic engine control sensor like a crankshaft sensor or a defective ICM (ignition module). So before you do anything else have the scan done with the special scan tool required.

You don't need a special tool. Use a 6mm allen to remove the filter drain plug. It will probably start to spin the filter housing. You can remove the housing by hand or with a regular oil filter wrench.

Don't worry it is not too hard if you keep at. One "special tool" that you will need is a ball joint separator to separate the ball joint on the idler arm from the steering. When changing make sure to compare your replacement parts with the original and if necessary make a diagram of how things go together. On the bottom, there is a castle nut and a cotter pin. Remove the pin and loosen the nut then use the ball joint separator to remove the idler arm. (This is the hardest part of the job.) Then remove the remaining bolts and take the part off. Before putting the new idler arm make sure that you put the new grease fitting on it (and go ahead and squirt a little grease in it even though it already has some) and in between the new ball joint and the steering there should be a plastic bearing that slips into place. It's a pretty straight forward job and once you take a good look at it you will see what all needs to be done. Hope this helps, let me know how it goes. Goodluck!

I bought my 2004 aveo 49 miles. I've had several issues with the car. But recently I been experiencung high idle at start up and clutching. I change IAC. Plugs and wireds. Nothing worked. Today the high idle became constant. It was a metal bubble flex tube near the IAC unit that goes to the exhaust stuff down behind the motor. It apparently was cracked cause today it broke causing the constant high idle sound like a vacumn. We blocked it off with a stick to get the idle back down to 900 rpm instead of 3-4000 rpm took we can get to auto zone for high temp hose per Chevy dealer. I hope this helps someone cause it was fustrating and costly.

relpace the fuel rail pressure regulator

same problem, except only one window doesn't work from the main control on drivers side. haven't tried anything, hope someone can.
paul