Hi my kia sedona CHECK ENGINE light comes on now then. what could be wrong, can it affect performance.

Kia Sedona Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems - Car Forums at ...

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Jul 10, 2006 - 31 posts - ‎16 authors
Learn more about Kia Sedona at the Edmunds.com Car Forums! ... My 2002 Sedona has 77K miles and it has a great deal of torque off the line. When we go over those white lines at the stop lights the engine always slips the ... The car will just stall out or buck hard as if it wanted to stall but caught again.

Why does engine stall intermittently while ideling or driving ...

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I was leaving work, coasting to a stop sign, and it just quit. ... Why does engine stallintermittently while ideling or driving? on 2005 Kia Sedona ... But, the latest occurance left me and my family stranded 100 miles from home in freezing ... never wait to findout reasons for this kind of issue. they never get better by themselves ...

Idle Air Control Valve - Car Talk

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bad sending unit? remove unit and perform a manual o/p test

If the check light is on have the reader read what error is coming up for purpose to see what the issue is.

the light doesnt come on for nothing you have to find out the code to see what causes the check engine light to come on as well if you leave your car running at gas up it will cause it to come on maybe not right away a few days later can come on so find out the code and that will tell you

The only thingI can say is that there is a problem that is affecting the entire bank on one side of the engine. This automatcally eliminates things like Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) etc. because failure of these things will affect BOTH banks, not one.

I have seen things like a totally skewed upstream Oxygen sensor on one side cause misfire codes for all cylinders on one bank. It is pretty rare, but it CAN happen. This can usually be verified by graphing the O2 Sensor PIDs for both sensors and comparing the graphs.

If the scaner data should be showing SOMETHING that is not right on one side - i.e. fuel trims, injector pulse width, etc.
I would also be looking into the possibility of one of the cams on that side to be 1 tooth off of the correct timing. This can cause problems while the engine is running and will not necessarily show up on a cranking compression test. One way to verify this is to perform a RUNNING compression test. With a warmed-up engine, pull one spark plug out at a time and check the compression with the engine running. Do BOTH sides, so you can compare the readings. If the entire 1-3-5 bank is lower than the 2-4-6 bank, then valve timing is most likely the cause.

Well, I would like to help you but P054 is not a valid code. There are not enough digits for it to be a valid OBD code. I would recommend reading the code again and make sure you post it correctly if you want help with it.

As for the Check Engine light and the Electronic Speed Control (ESC) light being on, this means that there is a malfunction in one of the many systems that are monitored by your Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM has also disabled your ESC (A.K.A. cruise control) for whatever reason.

It should be noted that although the problem does not seem to be affecting the way the vehicle drives, it is very likely that whatever is wrong is going to destroy some high-dollar parts like the catalytic converters if you don't get it fixed.

As far as getting it fixed at the dealer...It all depends on EXACTLY what is wrong. Most OBD fault codes can be serviced by anyone with the correct information for the code involved, providing they have the equipment and knowledge to properly diagnose the code. Codes that involve reprogramming of the PCM to fix are usually better to have done by the dealer. In these cases, the reprogramming can be done under emmissions warranties for free if the vehiclle meets certain criteria.

Take it to AutoZone. They will read the computer code and give you a printout of what may be wrong. You can then repair yourself or go to a garage armed with the information

check fuel pressure with engine off but key on, sounds like a possable problem with the pressure regulator, or maybe a weak fuel pump or bad fuel filter

SOUNDS LIKE A CATALYTIC CONVERTER.... BUT GO TO YOUR LOCAL AUTO ZONE OR YOUR PERSONAL MECHANIC AND HAVE HIM DO A OBD SCAN IT WOULD TELL YOU ALL THE DEALER FAULT CODES.... AUTO ZONE IS FREE LOCAL MECHANIC AT LEAST $250 FOR A 10 MINUTE PROCESS

YOU NEED TO SCAN IT.TO SEE WHAT CODE THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS COMING UP WITH.IT COULD BE THE TORQUE CONVERTER ON TRANSMISSION REMAINING LOCK UP OR MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR.IF YOU REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP.YOUR FUEL FILTER WILL CAUSE THE SAME PROBLEM IF ITS STOPPED UP.