Question about 1965 Ford Mustang

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I have a 65 Mustang with 200 Straight Six that I have owned for 25 years. About 5 years ago I started having problems with it stalling when I try and take off from a dead start. This only happens after about 30 mins of driving once the engine is all warmed up. When it is cold, it drives fine. I checked to see if the choke was stuck closed when it was warm but that appears to be open after it is warm. I thought that it might be vapor lock but wasn't sure if that only applied to when the car was turned off for 10-15 mins and restarted. It does stall after it sits for 10-15 mins once it is warm. I had experimented with the Anti-Stall pot on the carb but have not found the sweet spot to eliminate this problem. I adjusted to spec and then tweaked it some to at least keep it from letting me take the car out at all. I tried a new rebuilt carb about 2 years ago but this did not change anything. I also replaced the heat tube from Intake to Carb. Would a fuel pump cause any of this? Can vapor lock occur while the car is running or only if a car has been sitting a few minutes? Any suggestions on things that might be causing the stalling problem? I had a good 20 years without any problems with this car. Frustrated that I can't take it out without stalling at every stop light. Any help is appreciated.

Posted by kent_mitc943 on


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Hello, I have a few ideas to give you. I am thinking the fuel line may have a hole in it somewhere and that you are losing the vacuum draw at low speed. You may also have condensation in the gas tank or gasahol may have separated and you are getting a glub of something other than gas that is rolling around the inside of the gas tank. When you go to stop, the gas moves to the front of the tank, leaving the heavier contaminates at the fuel pump pickup.

That being said, there may also be a problem with the fuel pump pickup itself inside the tank. As a note, for awhile the gas stations used a foam ball filter in their pumps. But when the netting detriorated, the loose foam balls were injected into everyones' gas tanks. (rice size pellets)

Another thing you can do is add a vacuum gauge to your instrument cluster. It is both nostalgia and functional to use a vacuum gauge. Also the proper carburetor setting is made using a vacuum gauge, turning the air mixture to the maximum attainable reading, then backing off so the vacuum level is about 1lb from peak setting favoring more air(more open).

I would be interested in what you found from inspection.

Posted on Jul 01, 2011


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