Window won't go up or down...What checklist do I need to go thru to make sure it's not a short. Once b4 it stopped working then started working a gain after a few hours. This time it been a couple of days.
Take the door panel off and be careful doing it. Most likely it is only a loose connection with a wiring harness that goes to the motor or it could need a motor all together. They aren't hard to change. Only 3 bolts holds the motor in place but yours sounds like a loose connection. It's possible someone has already had the panel off before and just didn't plug the harness in very good into locked position and now it has fallen off.
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Not following you completely. When you say driver side passenger window, you mean the driver side rear window ? The window motors get power thru a power window control unit and thru the driver master switch. You'll need a shop manual with the wiring diagrams to track down the problem.
You have two separate (and unrelated) electrical issues. (1) windows - probably the fuse is blown - replace. If it keeps blowing fuses, then you have a short somewhere in the wiring to the window operator motors or the switch to raise/lower the windows (any soda/latte been spilled on one of the switches lately?, or perhaps a window left open overnight in a rainstorm?).
(2) interior light staying on - almost always a stuck/corroded/worn door switch - play with all four & you'll find which one has gone marginal (97% of the time its drivers door switch, since the driver's door gets more usage than all the other doors put together).
ive seen this before, on the drivers door you have all window buttons,the window that is causing the problem push and hold the button forward and i mean hard forward but dont break it,until the window resets you might need to do this a couple of times until it resets.please rate this answer.adrian,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
LOOK FOR BLOWN WINDOW CIRCUIT BREAKER.YOU HAVE A SHORT IN WINDOW SWITCH OR BAD WINDOW ELECTRIC MOTOR.YOUR HEAT PROBLEM IS A STOPPED UP HEATER CORES.THE STOP LEAK STOP ITS HEAT.THE STOP LEAK HAS STOPPED OR PLUGGED YOUR HEATER CORE SO COOLANT CANT PASS THROUGH IT.YOU GOING HAVE TO FIX RADIATOR LEAK AND REPLACE HEATER CORE TO GET HEAT AGAIN.
when the window has reached the top position keep the window switch up for 15 sec,operate the window complete down and when down hold the window switch down for 15 sec test this after. all you are doing is to teach the control unit the limit stop and open position.
Not a short, a shot is when a positive and negative wire touch, that blows a fuse, what you have is a problem with a component called the BODY CONTROL MODULE, you might say it is the central brain of all the electrical systems except the engine and transmission which have there own brain.