I have a 95 buick park avenue its firing and getting gas. The control module tests okay (tested 4 timesin a row to get it warm) and the injector shows a pule with a test light. It does not try to start at all just turns over.
A totally plugged cataltic converter can cause tis too because the engine cannot breathe
to verify a plugged cat connect a vacuum guage to manifold vacuum and ccrank the engine you should get at least 2-4" of cranking vacuum providing the timing chain has not jumped and the cat is not plugged
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These engines have 3 coils and are paired 1 and 4 2 and 5 3 and 6 with a spark noid run to see if the paired cylinder has no spark if so remove coil from module and test the power supply to coil and with a logic probe test the trigger side if blinking with no spark your coil is bad. not blinking replace module.
Depends. You would need a volt-ohm meter and the book to get the testing steps. You may need a scanner too. You would need to be able to test the circuits in the ignition control module where the coils are mounted and the crank - cam sensors.
As you have probably figured out by now, you will have to treat it as a no start and troubleshoot it when it fails to start. Until you figure out if you are loosing spark or fuel to the injectors when the engine dies you have no direction to go in.
This may be an ignition control module overheating. The module is found in the distributor, underneath the distributor cap on many models. If your vehicle has coil packs (is distributorless), the ignition module is underneath these coil packs. Once removed, most parts stores can test the module for you. When having the module tested, make sure it is tested 3-7 times in succession, as heat problems often will not show until it has cycled several times. Sometimes, this can be cured by installing fresh thermal transfer grease/heatsink compound on the metal portion of the module, available at radio shack and at some auto parts stores. Another possible culprit is the fuel pressure regulator, but this seems much less likely.
the problem has to be wireing.checking with an ohm meter will not tell you for sure how much current the wier will carry so you need need to find where it starts and ends and disconnect bothe ends.put a jumper to ground in one end then hook a test light to your positive battery terminal,put in the other end of the harness and see if the light is bright or dim.