1993 grand cherokee torq converter staying locked in
I have a 4.0l 4x4 with auto od. the problem is when the vehicle is warm the torq stays locked and stalls the motor out at a stop. it is worse in reverse. is there any way to fix or bypass this like in the chevys by unpluging something.
Re: 1993 grand cherokee torq converter staying locked in
When was the last time you replaced the fluid in it? also, as mine did, you could have some burs causing stuff to stick, had to grind some of those off manually (even in the trans.) it may be as simple as replacing the fluid, but more likely its a lot worse than that by now
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It's an older 4x4. When you "lock" those into 4 wheel drive, it's best practice to put the vehicle in the right main drive position(whether that's neutral for yours or not I'm not 100%), once there, lock 4x4 in, then back up about 3 feet to let the locking mechanisms set in place, then proceed to drive forwards. 4x4 systems in pretty much anything PRE 2000 are like that. I've owned a number of Ford Ranger's, Blazers, and pickups that all went through the same sounds you may be experiencing.
Fuel pump fuel pump, one main reason for a vehicle to stop running as it is warm is the fuel pump and the second reason is the most famous of all the ignition module that is on the distributor as it warms up it can the resistance get greater and effects the ability for the vehicle to maintain spark and you stall out, but when cold you can start up, ignition module or fuel pump both are capable of failing when you reach operating temperature
He need not stop to change from 4x4 hi to 2wd. He can also go from 2wd to 4x4 hi "on the fly" as long as the front hubs are locked, he is going straight and maintaining a steady speed. If the hubs are manually locking, he must exit the vehicle and lock the hubs. If they are automatic locking, in order to go from 2wd to 4x4 he must stop, put the vehicle in 4wd hi and pull off. Once he starts moving, the hubs will automatically lock, he can then switch from 2wd to 4wd hi and vice versa "on the fly". To unlock the hubs, he will need to stop, put the vehicle in 2wd and back up 3 ft. (remember, this is on automatic locking hub models). Hope this is helpful!
This is a shot in the dark . Check the inlet rubber pipe that goes from the air cleaner assembly to the throttle body. Some times they will crack and or collapse when the engine torques one way and run fine when torqed the other way. It actually will create and remove a very large vacuum leak. I have experienced this on two vehicles a Nissan Sentra and a 86 Toyota 4x4. Not on your specific vehicle but it's very possible thats the problem.
This sounds like a problem with the torque converter lockup system. Usually the torque converter lockup solenoid is at fault in your condition. This solenoid usually locks up the torque convertor (which acts like a clutch in an automatic transmission) when you are driving at a certain speed, and unlocks it when you press the brake, and/or come to a stop. When a torque converter stays locked up, and you stop the vehicle, it acts like a vehicle with a manual transmission, if you bring the vehicle to a complete stop without applying the clutch pedal, the brakes stall the engine. Basically, if the torque converter can't unlock, even when you come to a stop, the engine is still locked to the transmission, and even when you apply the brakes, the torque converter doesn't slip and freewheel like it should, but instead stalls the engine.
First check the thermostat, make sure that it is the proper temperature, and replace it if you have not already. You also could have a fan clutch freewheeling a little too much. Look for fluid residue out of the front hub of the fan clutch. I would also recommend not using junkyard parts when possible.
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Assuming that the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, it looks like the torque converter lock-up system doesn't release as fast as it should, so if you brake hard, the converter is still locked up and your wheel brakes stall your engine (just like pressing ******* the brakes with the clutch pedal released on a manual transmission vehicle). Normally, when you brake hard, the lock-up should release and prevent the stall from happening. Might be a bad torque converter, or a bad lock up solenoid in the transmission... Before jumping to anything else, i'd try checking the fluid level in the transmission and an oil/filter change in the transmission. Lots of times one or the other can cure the problem.