Engine won't turn over.This has been done so far: starter replaced, new belts, new batterry, new timing belt, complete front to rear inspection and maintenance

Check timing belt first , check starter also .

Instructions

1. Check Your Timing Belt
   • Check your owner's manual for the recommended mileage for replacing your timing belt. Replacement for a Toyota Camry is 60,000 miles for 1984 to 1997 models and 90,000 for 1998 to 2004 models.
     
   • 2Locate the timing belt and examine it for breaks, damage, fraying, worn spots or looseness.
     
   • 3
     
   • Inspect the belt for cracked or missing teeth. It's possible that foreign material collected between them.
   • 4Determine if there's damage on both sides of the timing belt. Single-side damage may be caused by the timing belt's guide.
     
   Remove Your Timing Belt
   • 5Unscrew the bolts to release the lower timing belt cover.
     
   • 6Disconnect the engine wire protector from the rear belt cover.
     
   • 7Remove the clamp holding the rear cover's engine wire protector clamp.
     
   • 8Take the bolts off the front cover and lift it from the engine.
     
   • 9Line up the crankshaft timing pulley groove with the oil pump by rotating the engine to the right.
     
   • 10Be sure the camshaft timing pulleys and rear belt covers line up. You may need to rotate the engine one full turn.
     
   • 11Undo the crankshaft pulley bolt and release the tensioner and dust boot.
     
   • 12Unscrew the bolts to release the lower timing belt cover.
     
   Install Your Timing Belt
   • 13Wipe off any oil or water on the pulleys.
     
   • 14Align the timing belt's front mark with that of the crankshaft timing pulley's mark and the timing belt's installation marks with those on the camshaft pulley.
     
   • 15Install the pulleys in this order: crankshaft, water pump, left camshaft, No. 2 idler, right camshaft and No. 1 idler.
     
   • 16Compress the tensioner until the pushrod's holes and housing align. Connect the dust boot to the tensioner then tauten the tensioner's bolts to 20 foot pounds (27 Nm).
     
   • 17Rotate the crankshaft to the right and line up its timing pulley groove with the oil pump. The camshaft timing marks and those on the rear timing belt cover should match up.
     
   • 18Put in the timing belt guide and secure the bolts to 21 foot pounds (28 Nm).
     
   • 19Secure the upper timing belt cover to 74 inch pounds (8 Nm).
     
   • 20Reinstall the engine wire protector and clamp to the timing belt cover. Replace the lower timing belt cover and secure the bolts to 74 inch pounds (8 Nm).
     
   • 21Reconnect any remaining items. Start the engine and check that the timing belt is functioning properly.
     

Won't start or won't crank ? ?
If it won't crank you might have an engine problem such as a broken timing belt.

do you have 50K miles or more? and your saying it turns over(non firing) faster than normal. Then you timing belt may have snapped.

Make sure that the belt isn't extremely tight and they the belt tensioner isn't liked up by pulling in the belt. It should move and spring right back. Make sure engine isn't locked up. And please explain what happen with the vehicle. The fact that you replace plugs and wires and fuel filter for a car that's not turning is throwing me off. So right now we are going all over the place. But definite look at belt and tensioner I've seen a few times that a bad tensioner will make the belt wrap around tighter inhibiting the engine from turning.

REPLACE SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES, REPLACE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR. NEED CHANGE ENGINE OIL AND OIL FILTER.YOU NEED CHANGE TIMING BELT HAS TO BE CHANGED EVERY 60000 MILES TIMING BELT CHANGING TIME OVER DUE.REPLACE WATER PUMP WHEN YOU REPLACE TIMING BELT BECAUSE TIMING COVER HAS TO BE REMOVED WHEN YOU REPLACE WATER PUMP ALSO GET BOTH DONE SAVE TIME AND MONEY.CHANGE TRANSMISSION FLUID AND FILTER.REPLACE FUEL FILTER AND AIR FILTER.FLUSH COOLANT SYSTEM REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP HAVE GARAGE FLUSH OUT BRAKE SYSTEM ADD NEW BRAKE FLUID.INSPECT BRAKES HOSES CHECK FRONT BRAKES PADS AND CHECK INSIDE CALIPER FOR LEAKING SEALS CHECK REAR DRUM BRAKE SHOES CHECK FOR LEAKING WHEEL CYLINDER SEALS.CHECK BALL JOINTS AND STEERING LINKAGE SEALS.CHECK DRIVE BELT OR BELTS.CHECK POWER STEERING FLUID LOOK OLD DIRTY HAVE GARAGE CHANGE POWER STEERING FLUID.ALL THOSE THINGS HAS TO BE CHECK AND DONE IF LAST OWNER NEGLECT DID NOT TAKE CARE OF VECHICLE.ITS GOING TO BE A EXPENSIVE COST. JUST DO A LITTLE AT A TIME.THE TIMING BELT WOULD BE MY WORRY IF IT BREAKS ENGINE IS DONE.I WOULD REPLACE WATER PUMP AND TIMING BELT FIRST WOULD DRIVE MUCH UNTIL THATS FIX.

Honestly there is no way with out the maintence history. The timing belt is located under a cover bolted to the front of the motor. Typically the belt is replaced between 60,000 and 100,000 miles pending on what the OEM recomends. You could try to contact your local Ford dealer's service or parts dept. If you give them the VIN number for your vehicle (located on the dash or on the drivers door) they should be able to look up the maintence history for that vehicle done at the dealer. If the belt was replaced by the dealer they would have the record of it. Otherwise, your only other option is to take the timing belt cover off and inspect to see if it is worn out, but if your going to go thru that hastle, you might as well replace the belt anyway.

Replacement of the timing belt on B230F engines is fairly straightforward. Note that you will need the proper tool to secure the crankshaft sprocket during removal procedures. Obtain the timing belt tensioner as well; it is designed to last only as long as the timing belt.
Begin by cleaning the area around the timing belt upper cover.
Remove the upper cover.
Remove the drivebelts on all accessory components.
Remove the fan (if you have a mechanical fan). Carefully leverage it out of the shroud. It may be necessary to remove the shroud as well - two 7mm bolts secure it to the radiator.
Remove the lower bellhousing cover at the rear of the engine.
Turn the crankshaft to bring the engine to Number 1 cylinder, TDC, firing. The timing marks will align when this is done.
Remove the crankshaft sprocket bolt. It may be very tight, and clearance is quite limited. Take care not to move the crankshaft from its set position.
Inspect all front oil seals before continuing, along with the water pump condition. If anti-boil weeps from the weep hole on top, you must replace the water pump or else it will contaminate the new belt.
Lock the timing belt tensioner in position. This can be done with a small nail, bringing it back and out of the way.
Remove the timing belt.
Replace all oil seals that leak, are weak or missing. Oil will ruin the new timing belt.
Installation is essentially a reversal of removal, after the tensioner is replaced and unlocked, spin the crankshaft sprocket two complete turns, noting if the timing is correct by way of the pointers aligning with the marks in the rear timing cover. Push down on the belt to ensure it seats correctly. Tighten the tensioner to the specified torque.
Install the cover, rear bellhousing cover (if removal was necessary) and nuts. Screw the backplate onto the front timing cover.
Install the fan and fan shroud.
Refill the coolant if the water pump was changed.
After double-checking installation items, road test the vehicle after allowing it to warm up to check for coolant or oil leakage.
After 600 miles, remove the rubber plug at the front of the timing cover. Loosen and tighten the tensioner bolt. Place your labels indicating mileage and date of timing belt drive maintenance at the front of the engine.

generally every 60,000 miles. Some cars can go as long as 10o,000 miles. Check your owner's manual for the manufacture's recommendation or call the dealer's service department. They will tell you. One word of caution if a honda blows a timing belt the pistons and valves can meet ands then you need a new engine. Ifyou have any doubts about when the belt was last done, get it replaceds

It CAN be done in a home shop, but it is HUGELY time consuming and is not a job for the average person in their driveway.
If you wanna try though,
1) remove engine cover.
2) partially drain coolant and remove coolant reservoir (mark all the vacuum hoses)
3) remove fuel lines from the fuel distribution block/leak detection pump.
4) remove sparkplugs and drivebelt
5) remove upper timing belt cover (it has the enging info sticker on it)
6) jack up right front of car and support on jack stands, remove front wheel.
7) remove lower fender apron
8) Rotate the engine until piston 1 is at Top Dead Center. Verify that the camshaft sprocket mark is aligned witht he mark on the rear timing belt cover.
9) losen the crackshaft drive sporcket bolt and the pulley bolts. (you may have to use a strap wrench to keep the crackshft from ratating witht he wrench)
10 Make sure that the number 1 piston is still at top dead center.
11 Support the engine on a piece of wood and remove the right engine mount and engine moutn support bracket
12 remove lower timing belt cover
13 release the timing belt tensioner
14 remove the timing belt
15 Inspect the camshaft sprocket for damage
16 inspect belt for contamination by coolant or oil. If found locate and fix source of leak
17 Inspect the tensioner and idler pulleys for damage or wear replace if necessary.
Ok there are about 20 more step to put it back in and I am getting bored. a Haynes manual gives a step-by-step with photos and illustrations.
I woudl also recommend that, while you are there, you also replace the water pump. the factory pump was plastic and the fins have likely broken off. Replace with a metal aftermarket pump. Don't be afraid to spend a little money on a good pump and a good belt. The cost of the labor to replace the them far far outweighs the actual cost of parts