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Posted on May 08, 2011
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How do you adjust the front spindles up and down movement tighter ! The front ball joints are still tight, no slop there ! This is a 1991 Jeep Wrangler....... Thank you, Rich B

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  • Jeep Master 6,982 Answers
  • Posted on May 08, 2011
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I assume you are lifting the tire/wheel assembly and seeing play?
The only two places you will see any wear related play is from the bearing or the ball joint, neither are adjustable. Movement of the entire assembly is controlled by the shocks and springs but play would not be evident in either.

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1helpful
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1998 jeep cherokee sport front end clunk when turning left

This could be almost any front end part, these Cherokees have front end problems that will drive anyone crazy, even techs .
Take a look at front end components, check for any broken sway bar link ends, these sometimes break and make noise when turning or going over a bump, they hit other components due to being broken.
The first thing is to check the front end. there are upper and lower are bushings that wear out, these are tough to check, you will need to really take a good look at them for wear. the next thing is the track bar, this is also hard to check due to the force on it, but you will need to check it by watching it for movement at the joint end as someone jacks truck up and lowers it.These trucks are also famous for ball joint problems, you will need to check them. jack up one side about 4 inches off the ground and with your hands grab the top and bottom of the tire and wiggle tire hard to check for movement in ball joint, if there is play then replace them. upper and lower, if there is no play then slide bar under the tire and pull up and and down this will apply and release pressure , this will allow you to check for play in the ball joint. you will feel and see movement in ball joint, have someone watch the ball joint as you pry on tire.
this is a start, good day.
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Front end shimmy @ 65-70 mph

I would look at replacing your ball joints and/or tie rod ends, either can cause those symptoms. The balls joints should be check by a professional.

To check your tie rods jack one front side of your car check it, then do the other;

Move the front wheels. Placing your hands on the tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions, move the tire back and forth rapidly. A properly tightened front end will give no signs of excess movement and should give you the feeling of the entire wheel moving back and forth tight to the hub. If there is a movement, ask a friend or partner to ascertain where the movement is coming from. There could be many places that excess movement in a front end could be coming from. The tie rod ends are the easiest to check. Generally, if there is movement in the outer tie rod end, you will see it moving near the ball area where is sits down into the knuckle of the control arm. Excess movement there will require replacement of the outer tie rod. As far as movement on the inner tie rod, place your hand on that while your helper is moving the tire in the same motion described above. Determine how excessive the movement is, if any, for an inner tie rod. Some vehicles will give off a little movement in the rack and pinion. Some vehicles will have what feels like excess movement, but have pitman arms and idler arms that will also need to be checked. Those components should only be allowing side-to-side movement.
Take some time and make sure the lower ball joint is not moving. Place your hands on the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to move it up and down. Many vehicles nowadays have wheel bearing hub assemblies, and there should be absolutely no free-play whatsoever. If there is and the lower ball joint is not moving in the knuckle, chances are there's movement in the bearing. Some rear-wheel-drive vehicles have a bearing seated rotor and this can be adjusted to tighten the looseness in a bearing; however, a little movement in that type of application is generally OK.
0helpful
1answer

Need pictures and procedure 91 Ford pickup F250 twin I beam ball joint replacement.

Wheel Spindle, F-150, F-250, F-350
Removal
  1. Raise the front of the vehicle and install safety stands.
  1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04 .
  1. Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) from the rotor and wire it out of the way. Refer to Section 06-03 .
  1. Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut retainer, nut, washer and front wheel bearing (1216).
  1. Remove the rotor from the front wheel spindle (3105).





    Item Part Number Description 1 606085 Clamp Bolt 2 3B404 Camber Adjuster 3 800895 Nut 4 800937 Nut 5 3049 Front Suspension Upper Ball Joint 6 3050 Front Suspension Lower Arm Ball Joint 7 3105 Front Wheel Spindle 8 642569 Cotter Pin 9 3304 Steering Sector Shaft Arm Drag Link 10 383489 Nut 11 3001 Front Axle Assembly 12 388727 Bolt A - Tighten to 77-103 Nm
    (57-75 Lb-Ft) B - Tighten to 68-92 Nm
    (50-67 Lb-Ft) C - Tighten to 113-153 Nm (83-112 Lb-Ft) D - Tighten to 340-460 Nm (250-339 Lb-Ft)
  1. Remove bearing cone and roller (1201) and wheel hub grease seal (1190). Discard the seal.
  1. Remove front disc brake rotor shield (2K004). Refer to Section 06-03 .
  1. Disconnect the steering linkage from the integral front wheel spindle and spindle arm by removing the cotter pin and nut and then removing the front wheel spindle tie rod from the spindle arm with Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
  1. Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the lower ball joint stud.
  1. Remove the nut from the axle clamp bolt and remove the bolt from the axle.
  1. Remove the camber adjuster from the upper ball joint stud and axle beam. If required, use Ball Joint Removing Tool D81T-3010-B or equivalent to remove adjuster.
  1. stj~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the axle as this will damage the seal and the ball joint socket.
    Strike the inside area of the axle as shown to pop lower ball joints loose from the axle beam.
  1. Remove the front wheel spindle and ball joint from the axle.






Ball Joint, F-150, F-250, F-350 SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C Ball Joint Remover T94T-3010-AH
Removal
  1. Remove the front wheel spindle (3105) and ball joint assembly from the axle. Refer to Wheel Spindle, F-150, F-250, F-350 in the Removal and Installation portion of this section.
  1. NOTE: Lower ball joint must be removed first.

    Install the front wheel spindle in a vise and remove the snap ring from the lower ball joint.
  1. Remove the lower ball joint from the front wheel spindle using U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C and Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A5 or equivalent for F-150. Use Ball Joint Remover T94T-3010-AH for F-250 and F-350.
  1. Turn the forcing screw clockwise until the ball joint is removed from the front wheel spindle.
  2. CAUTION: Do not heat the ball joint or the front wheel spindle to aid in removal.
    Assemble U-joint tool and cup on the upper ball joint, and turn forcing screw clockwise until ball joint is removed from the front wheel spindle.


    Installation
    1. stj~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not heat the ball joint or axle to aid in installation.
      NOTE: Upper ball joint must be installed into the front wheel spindle first.

      NOTE: Individual ball joint tools are included in Ball Joint Adapter Set D81T-3010-A or equivalent.

      To install the upper ball joint, assemble C-frame assembly, Ball Joint Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A5 and Installation Cup D81T-3010-A1 and D81T-3010-A3 or equivalents inside cup D81T-3010-A4 or equivalent in position on the front wheel spindle.
    1. Turn forcing screw clockwise until ball joint is seated.



    2. snorkelbobby_49.gif
0helpful
1answer

Toyota corona AT170, how to fix steering wobble

It starts out as a slight shimmy from side to side that you can just barely feel in the steering wheel at about 25 mph. As the side-to-side action gains momentum it practically rips the wheel out of your hands. It feels and sounds as though the front axle is going to get tossed out from under your Jeep at any moment. Looking out the window at the frontend reveals the tires dancing back and forth like a couple of cancan girls. Other motorists scatter at the sight of your out-of-control Jeep. Speeding up to around 50 mph or bringing your Jeep to a complete stop is usually the only way to stop the shaking. But not for good.

To permanently eliminate the death wobble and avoid other handling problems, here are a few tips; this work in Jeep models:


- The most common culprit of wobble and erratic handling is worn-out components. Tie rod ends and ball joints should have dust boots intact. Grease the joints periodically if they have fittings.

- You can check for slop in your steering by jacking up the front of your Jeep and grasping a tire at the nine and three o'clock positions. Wiggle it front to back. Slop will be noticeable. It helps to have a buddy watch the tie rod ends for looseness.

- Loose or worn wheel bearings can also cause poor handling. They can be checked by grasping the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. If there is any movement, the bearings should be repacked or replaced in the case of later-model Jeeps with unit bearings.

- Here's a common problem on CJs and YJs with spring-overs. The drag link on this Jeep has been bent to clear the spring and a drop pitman arm has been installed in an attempt to correct for the lift. This won't cause the frightening wobble, but bumpsteer will result. The drag link should be close to parallel to the tie rod and axlehousing.

- TJs are notorious for bent steering linkages. They come from the factory with a bend for clearance around the axle (arrow). It's often hard to tell if it has been bent more after a rough trail. Always inspect your steering linkages for impacts and bends after a trail ride.

- Loose U-bolts will wreak havoc on your Jeep's handling. Keep 'em tight and check them frequently after installing a lift kit.

- Rubber bushings may flex better than urethane but rubber will rot and fall apart. Inspect control arm, leaf spring, and shackle bushings. They locate the axles, so any slop will affect handling.

- The '76-'86 CJs have a slop-prone steering shaft. The slop will cause the Jeep to wander all over the road causing the driver to saw the steering wheel back and forth to go straight. The shaft can be upgraded with a U-joint-style unit.

- If you install longer shackles on your leaf-sprung Jeep you will probably need shims like these on the front axle to correct the caster. Shackle-reversal kits often provide increased caster, which improves high-speed control.



Hope helps.




0helpful
1answer

I am getting a metallic "clicking" noise from the front end of a 2003 jeep grand cherokee. The noise is most audible at low speeds (10-15 mph) The tempo of the noise does not seem to increase/decrease with...

I can't say for sure without actually checking myselft but it sounds like one of four possiblilities, ball joints, tie rod ends or sabilizer bar ends or shocks.
To check the tie rod ends put the jeep on jack stands or a hoist, with the steering wheel locked try to turn the wheels back and forth and look for movement in the joints of the linkages.
To check the ball joints, while the jeep is up in the air grasp the top and bottom of the wheel and try tipping the wheel in and out, checking for movement in the ball joints.
Lower the Jeep back to the ground. Continue the tests by having a big friend or family member bounce the Jeep while you listen for and look for movement in the ball joints, stabilizer bar ends and along the linkage and abnormal movement in the shocks.
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Death wooble on a 2005 dodge ram 2500 quad cab 4x4

The easiest way to troubleshoot it would be to jack up the front end and put jack stands under the front axle. Have a friend grab one of the front tires and wiggle pretty hard. (Make sure steering wheel is locked). To check the ball joints have them push/pull on the top and bottom of the tire and see if there is any movement between the spindle and ball joint. If not, check the tie rods next. (have them push in on one side of the tire, pull out on the other, not top and bottom this time). While they are doing this, lay under it the tie rod ends. If there is no movement (slop), check the drag link for play. If those check out, look at where the drag link mounts to the pitman arm on the steering box to see if the top link is shot or if the pitman arm is bad.

If all of this checks out ok, have your front tires checked. Tires that are out of balance can wobble pretty good as well.
1helpful
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99 taurus reasembling after a ball joint teardown

You wont be able to push the strut up, if the bolts are tight at the top. You need to take a long prybar and push down on the control arm to get it below the strut/spindle assy. then push the spindle rotor drive axle assembly in toward the transmission, when you get it in far enough for the ball joint to line up, ease the pressure off the prybar and allow the ball joint stud to go in the hole on the spindle.
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2000 Ford Focus LX steering knuckle/ball joint

theres 2 ways too fix that!! one is get some brass shiw stock it comes in a roll get about .005 thick! wrap several layers around the knuckle pin where is goes into the socket and then tigthen it up that will remove the play also you can heat the socket with a torch and then take a hammer and shrink the hole opening but if you call beards salvage in tulsa okla they can and will sell/ship you one
0helpful
2answers

Front wheel has play failed mot its not the top arm it looks like a bearing above the hub. lots of play

Ball joints appear to be the cause. Anytime there is un/down left/right movement in the wheel. Get it done soon as the ball joints hold the spindle to the control arm and if it pops out the wheel comes off...not good when driving
1helpful
1answer

Jack the car up the wheel is loose would it be the bearings or axle

The obvious (which you probably already did thing to check lst --are the lug nuts tight, is the center spindle nut tight. It could be the bearings,but I would then check your ball joints or tie rods. Grab the tire at the top and bottom, try to move the tire in and out. Have someone watching the ball joints to see if there is movement (aka, play, they are loose). Next grab the tire at the front and back, and again try to pull it in and out while someone watches. If you can see movement in these components, they should be replaced asap (car won't handle as well, tires wear out quicker, etc) good luck countrycurt0
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