I need to know the marks on the crank shaft and the cam shaft positions when placing the timing belt on and if there is clearance between the top of the piston and the valve. this is for a Totota Camry 1998 with a 2.2 L engine.

you are in a bit of a bind. Turning the engine over will result in bent valves so do not touch the crank shaft. you have to loose off all the rockers/ cam followers even to the point of removing the cam shaft. having done that remove no1 cylinder spark plug and by the use of a thin piece of wire turn the crank until the piston reaches top dead center. find this by rocking the crank back and forward until the piston dose'n move up or down check for the crank timing mark next replace the cam shaft and position the cam lobes for no1 piston in such a position that the inlet and exhaust valves move slightly up or down when the cam is moved slightly left or right. this is called valve over lap and with the piston on top dead center means that you now have valve timing for the engine. Cam timing marks can be dot on gear to shiny link on chain or if using a belt a dot on tooth lineing up with mould mark or join on head before starting up do a compression check to prove that there are no bent valves. if you are not mechanically minded enough to attempt the valve timing method it may be cheaper in the long term to let a qualified person do the job

Just mark the cam and crank shaft in the position that it is in before you take the timing belt out

Here is the trick. Align marks. Put the timing belt on the crank shaft pulley first, and after on the overhead cam pulley. Release tensioner and rotate the crank shaft till the timing belt makes two full circles. Try to align marks, you will be at least one tooth off. Align the crank shaft on the mark, and find out how many teeth you are off at the cam shaft pulley. Count the teeth. Remove the timing belt from cam shaft pulley only. Move cam shaft pulley in reverse according to the number of teeth you counted. Make sure the crank shaft pulley is on the mark. Mount the belt at cam shaft pulley.Rotate the belt two circles and check the marks. Repeate this procedure til after releasing the tensioner, and rotating the timing belt two full circles, the mars will be align.

Clearance is NOT the issue. The Elantra engine I4 (2.0 lit) is an interference valve-.to-pinston clearance. If the valve timing to piston clearance is exceeded (wether advanced or retarded), the valves will 'kiss' the top of the pistons and get bent. Also verify 'INTAKE' & 'EXHAUST' cams have been installed proprely. Valve timing (timing marks at camshaft sprockets in reference to crank shaft sprocket) is essential. Also,.ensure proper timing belt tension.

its tricky enough if your not sure what your doing but ill run you through it. 1. remove top rocker cover and timing belt cover. 2 make up the position of the pully on the cam shaft at the top and the drive shaft at the bottom, this marks are you fail safe incase you cant time the engine. 3 remove the timing belt and pully tentioner, note if your going this far you are as well to replace the timing belt,tentioner and water pump. 4 On the cam shaft at the top if you force them to turn you will see a small indicator mark on the shaft this mark has to line up with the other indicator mark on the housing between the cam shaft and the cam shaft pully, once they line up your top end is timed, mark up the pully incase it moves. 5 on the drive shaft pully there is also markings that have to line up but you can also feel the position of the pully as you turn it, you will feel the piston been forced up and it is timed at top dead centre on cylinder one, which means the the piston has to be at the top just before the point of returning back down, using your feeling as a guide and the markings lined up you will have timing. also mark up this pully, your new marking should be very very close to the fail safe markings you put on at the start. when you have your marking replace the timing belt with the longest distance between pully contact going on first, try not disturb your timing or your hard work will have been for nothing, make sure the tentioner on the belt is tight but not to tight to the point where you ll stretch the belt or snap it, put everything back as you found it and crank the engine, job done, best of luck. hope this helps( rate me on my answer thanks )

timing belt marks are as follows= crank at TDC marks are at 10 oclock the both cams marks at TDC are at 12 .oclock position marks are clear if you look theoil pump gear also driven by belt marks are approx 11 oclock position also marked thebalance shaft gear/cog must also be set to 9 oclock position when the b/shaft belt is fitted to hold theoil pump sprocket in its correct position remove the small screw/blank plug on side of block then use an 8 mm posi screwdriver insert into hole it should travel approx 60 mm to engage if not rotate pump gear 360 degree till it does locate fit main belt from crank anti clockwise to cams then tension same with b/shaft tensioner make sure you torque all bolts correctly any more info req'd come back hope this helps ?

You must find the cam lock bar and crank lock pin to do this job properly, otherwise you can bend some valves and that becomes expensive..the front crank damper has a mark to line up with a mark on the timing cover for #1 TDC, but the cam lock bar is what aligns the cams into position. The crank lock pin is helpful but not 100% necessary...

The crankshaft pulley has a hole in it, just above the key. It should be straight up and lined up with the mark on the engine.
The cam pulley also has a hole, and it should be lined up with the little v in your camshaft cover. Put the belt on, line it up, and turn the engine over with a wrench or socket, 2 complete revolutions. Everything should be exactly the same place as when you lined it up. If not, you are out one cog, and will have to do it again.
Make sure the cam is on compression stroke when you line it up. Both valves on #1 cylinder should be fully up... in the closed position.

I hope you've solved the problem by now, but there are alignment marks on the crank shaft (top pulley), idler (lower side), and cam shaft (smaller, bottom pulley) which should be aligned with stationary marks on the timing belt rear cover.

The belt has marks that align with the aforementioned marks (lines). The double marks on the belt align with the camshaft marks and the single marks with the others.

Loosen the tensioner clamp (nut) to allow the spring loaded tensioner to press on the belt and retighten the nut.

Rotate the crank shaft (clockwise, probably two revolutions) and make sure the pulley marks realign to the marks on the cover (they don't have to realign with the marks on the belt).

Rotate the crank shaft a full revolution once the belt is on and check that alignment is preserved.

Periodically loosen and retension the tensioner nut (access through a hole in the cover) to ensure that tension is maintained as the belt relaxes.

The crank shaft pully will need removal and the water pump pully as well, also the 2 inspection covers and the center housing cover that they conect with, when removed all of the timing belts will be exposed as well as crank shaft end. I used a screw driver angled wedged and held in on the teeth of the fly-wheel to lock it in position so I could remove the crank shaft pully bolt, (standard lefty-loosey threaded). This would have been easier with the fly-wheel locking tool from subaru, or even just a budy to hold the fly-wheel while i turned the bolt loose at the crank pully. I unbolted the fan and slid it out of the way, I did not even need to unplug it. just be sure battery is not conected. The oil dip-stick tube has one 12 mm bolt at the end of a brace at top of engine. loosen and pull up and forward to remove. the crank shaft bolt-you will need to put back in the bolt only! on the end of the crank shaft so you can rotate the engine manualy with a socket on the crank shaft pully nut, while looking through the hole on the top of rear engine area just above fly wheel. wach fly wheel as it turns, look for 3 lines side by side these are not the timing degree marks they are seperate from them, align them to the little arow on the houseing in front of the 3 little marks. be sure the e-brake is set, trany in nutral so engine can turn freely. inspect the cam shaft pullies, on the surface there are 4 evenly spaced holes, there is one tiny hole that lays between the other holes, this little hole that is the pully mark, it needs to be at the twelve oclock position, there is a small groove on the housing at the twelve oclock position as well. align the two with each other, the little hole with the little notch directly above. do the same for the other side cam pully, same way. loosen the idler pulies for each belt, 2 bolts, move it to its full retracted position, pushing on it with fngers against spring tention, titen one of the nuts so the pully stays retracted/pushed. remove old belts, being carefull not to move the place marks of either of the 2 cam shafts or the engine crank placement. put in the new belts check to see if belt has a direction of dravel and match with engine, mine it did not matter but was told that it may with other belt makers? i don't know about that? but thought it was worth the warning?
once belts are on be sure again that marks all mate with marks on all 3 points crank and fly-wheel, both cam shaft pullies with notchs, now release the tnsion on the idler pullies, and retighten where they fell. check again on the 3 timing points be sure they have not moved again... tireing but worth it. if the have moved off of any mark you must realign it by moveing the pully to the rite spot and putting the belt back on. one tooth off on the drivers side of engine cam can meen up to 16 degrees of timing lose either way of perfect. once aligned, put the center cover back over the crank shaft, bolt on. put on the oil dip stick, put on the water pump pully and crank shaft pully, put on belts. leave the fans out untill all is done, just be sure they are free of obstacles so if they come on later it does no harm to it, you, or anything else. leave off the inspection covers at each cam pully. be sure to un block the fly-wheel. re asemble engine and componants to the installed normal positions as best as posible. re conect battery, be sure all tools are clear, start engine, if it will not run smoothly re set the distributer for timing, if still runs bad, you may have one or both cams off by plus or minus 1-2 teeth one the belts. this was hell... you have to move one side one tooth and start the engine and time it again, if that was not it then you move one tooth in in the oposite direction from the oiginal spot, now 2 teeth the oposite way. if not better put back on the original tooth, and do the same to the other cam one step and start at a time untill you find it to work the best, it may even be off by 1 tooth on the rite and 1- tooth on the left. This was a nite-mare but i finaly found the rite placements.
take 2 aspirin, advil, etc. pre-medicate for the manditory headache. and best of luck..
if you are wondering if the valves and the pistons may have struck, forget it subaru made this 1.8l engine as a none contacting engine, this meens that they can never touch piston to valves even in a cam belt failure.