Question about 2001 Kia Sephia

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Rear wheel hub nut

What size is the nut to remove the bearings?

Posted by change4dolla on

  • Anonymous Mar 17, 2014

    wot size socket for rear escort van bairing x reg

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1 Answer

Anonymous

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I used a 32 mm to remove hub nut on front. I guess it would be the same for back hub nut.

Posted on Aug 22, 2008

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5 Related Answers

mgray87

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: VW Jetta torque setting and hub nut size????

129 ft/lbs. Per Bentley...I'm pretty sure it's a 30 mm 12 point socket.

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

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Anonymous

  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: Need to replace front wheel bearing. Already

The complete Knuckle has to be removed from the car. The bearing is pressed out and in. If you dont have a press, you will have to take it to an auto parts store with a machine shop. The bearing is siezed and you cannot bang it out. I have been there! Make sure you give them the hub, thats pressed in too.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

Anonymous

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: ford fiesta 1999 rear wheel bearings

yes it is one big nut, however it looks like 4 individual nuts due to the fact that they are a thinly stacked layer or thin nuts held together by what you called the tab washer............only way to replace is to get a new one from ford........

Posted on Sep 19, 2009

Testimonial: "Thank-you for that, I have ordered a new one from the ford dealers. I just wonder why the 4 nuts were fitted in the first place? thank you"

Anonymous

  • 3741 Answers

SOURCE: how to remove rear bearing hub

The bearing is already shot so disregard what you hear about loosening the hub nut before you jack the car up. If you are doing this in your backyard it is VERY important to jack and support the car properly....you won't be able to use the parking brake because you'll be taking the disc/hat off. So work smart and safe.----Remove hub cap. :---Spray PB Blaster or another good rust killer in the hub, and all the nuts you will be removing. That means the pinch bolts for the toe link and the upper ball joint, plus the nut. Also the nut on the bolt of the lower arm. --Break the lug nuts AND 36mm hub nut a 1/4 turn.--Jack up the car and support. Remove lug nuts, then tire.----Remove brake caliper and support it to prevent damage to hose....I hung mine from the coil spring...The metal brake line fit in between the coils very nicely.----Remove disc/hat.----Remove the 36mm hub nut (you need buy a new one...really) -----Use a hub puller to press the axle shaft in through the hub, just a little bit...to break the rust. JUST A LITTLE! YOU ARE JUST BREAKING THE RUST SO IT WILL COME APART EASIER LATER. Spray it again and move on. Remove puller for now. -----Remove the springs, and retainers from the parking brake and remove the parking brake shoes.----Remove the parking brake levers coming through the rubber bushing .----Remove the Nut and Pinch Bolt from the Upper Ball Joint (at 12 o'clock) MAKE SURE YOU PUT THIS SAME BOLT BACK IN WITH A NEW NUT. THIS BOLT IS A LITTLE LONGER THAN THE TOE LINK BOLT!----Note: The pinch arms are just a term for the design....the bolt goes through a split....when the bolt is tightened, it clamps on the part that is meant to be held. Separate carefully....don't damage boot. I actually drove a stubby screw driver through the pinch arms of the knuckle to free it.

Remove the Nut and Pinch Bolt from the Toe Link (at 7 o'clock)

Separate carefully....don't damage boot. I actually drove a stubby screw driver through the pinch arms of the knuckle to free it.

Support lower arm (I used a cinder block)

Remove nut and bolt through lower arm (at 6 o'clock)

The only thing holding you back now should be getting the hub / knuckle assembly off the axle shaft.

Attach your puller again to the hub and as you tighten it the hub / knuckle assembly should start coming off the axle shaft pretty easily....if it doesn't, spray it.

The hub must be pressed out of the bearing
The bearing must be pressed out of the knuckle.

The new bearing must be pressed into the knuckle.
The NEW hub must be pressed into the bearing.

I don't have a press and had a local machine shop do this part for $50.00

I didn't have all tools and had to buy a few.

24" breaker bar $20
36mm hub socket $17
Universal Hub Puller $ 21....AutoZone will buy back but I will keep
The other tools are just a couple of sockets and wrenches....I think 18mm.
A ball joint splitter....PB Blaster (I swear by this stuff)

You SHOULD replace the HUB and bearing. I got the hub and bearing at AutoZone for $121.....tools cost $58...Machine Shop was $50.

Total cost was about $230.....dealer wanted $750.
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Posted on Mar 18, 2010

Anonymous

SOURCE: i am replacing the front

Most likely 32 or 36 mm socket

measure the nut & divide by .0395
to convert to metric

Posted on Mar 28, 2011

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Replacing front wheel bearing


  1. Loosen the wheel nuts and the center axle nut.
  2. Raise the vehicle and safely support it.
  3. Remove the wheel. Remove the ABS speed sensor if so equipped.
  4. Unclamp the brake hose from the shock absorber, but do not disconnect the line.
  5. Remove the brake caliper and hang it out of the way on a piece of stiff wire. Do not disconnect the brake line; do not allow the caliper to hang by the hose.
  6. Remove the brake disc.
  7. Place a dial indicator near the center of the axle hub, and check the backlash in the bearing shaft direction. Maximum is 0.0020 inch (0.05mm). If the backlash exceeds the maximum, replace the bearing.
    1. Usiung a dial; indicator, check the deviation at the surface of the axle hub outside the hub bolt. Maximum is 0.0028 inch (0.07mm). If the deviation exceeds the maximum, replace the axle hub.
    2. Install the disc and caliper. Tighten to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
  8. Remove the cotter pin and install the wheel. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  9. Remove the lock nut cap. While depressing the brake pedal, remove the center axle nut.
  10. Raise and support the vehicle again and remove the wheel, caliper and disc.
  11. Loosen the 2 nuts on the lower side of the shock absorber. Do not remove the 2 nuts and bolts.
  12. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end.
  13. Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle using a joint separator or equivalent.
  14. Remove the bolt and 2 nuts holding the bottom of the ball joint to the control arm and separate the arm from the knuckle.
  15. Remove the 2 nuts from the steering knuckle. Place a protective cover or shield over the CV boot on the driveshaft.
  16. Using a plastic mallet, tap the driveshaft free of the hub assembly.
  17. Remove the bolts and remove the axle hub assembly.
    1. Clamp the knuckle in a vise with protected jaws.
    2. Remove the dust deflector. Loosen the nut holding the ball joint to the knuckle. Use a ball joint separator tool or equivalent to loosen and remove the joint
    3. Use a slide hammer/extractor to remove the outer oil seal.
    4. Remove the snapring.
    5. Using a hub puller and pilot tools or equivalents, pull the axle hub from the knuckle.
    6. Remove the brake splash shield (3 bolts).
    7. Use a split plate bearing remover, puller pilot and a shop press, remove the inner bearing race from the hub.
    8. Remove the inner oil seal with the same tools used to remove the outer seal.

    To install:
    1. Place the inner race in the bearing. Support the knuckle and use an axle hub remover with a plastic mallet to drive out the bearing.
    2. Clean and inspect all parts but do not wash or clean the wheel bearing; it cannot be repacked. If the bearing is damaged or noisy, it must be replaced.
    3. Press a new bearing race into the steering knuckle using a bearing driver of the correct size.
    4. Place a new bearing inner race on the hub bearing.
    5. Insert the side lip of a new oil seal into the seal installer and drive the oil seal into the steering knuckle.
    6. Apply multi-purpose grease to the oil seal lip.
    7. Apply sealer to the brake splash shield and install the shield.
    8. Use a hub installer to press the hub into the steering knuckle.
    9. Install a new snapring into the hub.
    10. Using a seal installer of the correct size, install a new outer oil seal into the steering knuckle.
    11. Apply multi-purpose grease to the seal surfaces which will contact the driveshaft.
    12. Support the knuckle and drive in a new dust deflector.
    13. Install the ball joint into the knuckle and tighten the nut to 105 ft. lbs. (142). Install NEW cotter pin.
    14. Temporarily install the hub assembly to the lower control arm and fit the driveaxle into the hub.
    15. Install the knuckle to strut bolts, then attach the tie rod end to the knuckle.
    16. Tighten the strut bracket nuts to 203 ft. lbs. (275 Nm) and tighten the tie rod end nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). Install the NEW cotter pin.
    17. Connect the ball joint to the lower control arm and tighten the nuts to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).
    18. Install the brake disc.
    19. Attach the brake caliper to the knuckle and tighten the bolts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
    20. Install the center nut and washer on the drive axle.
    21. Install the ABS speed sensor if so equipped. Install the wheel
    22. Lower the car to the ground.
    23. Tighten the wheel nuts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Tighten the hub nut while depressing the brake pedal to 137 ft. lbs. (186 Nm) on 1988-91 models and 152 ft. lbs. (206 Nm) on 1992-97 models. Install the cap and cotter pin.
    24. Remove the protective cover from the CV boot. Check front wheel alignment

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