I have a 1985 T25 Panel Van 1.9DG petrol RHD. I had a reconditioned Pierburg 2E3 carb and had a problem where turning the mixture screw (not the idle screw) didnt seem to have any effect. After a lot of carb investigation and renewal of the heater unit, I decided to replace the Pierburg with a Weber. I have fitted the weber and have the same problem. Turning the enrichment screw is having no effect. Does anyone know of any underlying problem that can affect the mixture screws response? Also, not sure if its related, but the oil pressure warning light flashes as well
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this sounds more like you need the carb rebuilt to clean out all the dirt in the small passages and replace the needle and seat as well as the float. the idle air mixture screw are at the front of the carb at the base one for each barrel the carb has. this year should have tamper proof plugs covering the mixture screws which the carb will have to come off to remove them.
Start by checking the existing settings of your air adjusting screws (the two in front). you do that by turning the screws one at a time in (clock wise) at one half turn at a time until they stop. should be appx. 1 1/2 turns. Be sure to jot down how many turns it took so you can put them back if need be. Now set both at 1 1/2 turns out (counter clock wise) NOTE. Do all this with engine off...... Now start engine and turn screws out slowly one at a time about 1/2 turn then in until you hear the engines RPMs start to drop then turn out again 1/4 turn. Now your air/fuel mixture should be as close as your going to get it without a dino machine
Do you have a Holly on that ? if not then, you have to pull the carb. apart to adjust the fuel/air mix, are you talking about the idle air mix screws, this only adjust the idle mix, not the fuel ratio when running above idle, I have seen slots (screw driver) oval, hex screws, your going to have to see which one you have, take the air cleaner off and reach it from the front of the van.
You need to adjust the automatic choke. Your choke may not be opening fully. There is a fast idle cam linked to the choke to keep the throttle open more until the engine is warm. The idle mixture screw is part 37 in the picture, but get the choke adjusted right first, and you may not have to adjust the mixture screw. See adjustment procedures at link beloe.
U are not describing a carb adjustment issue but a carb dirt issue or an intake manifold leak or the base of the carb is loose (very,very common), twist the carb body if it moves the base of carb has come loose, but back to the adjustments, set the rough idle speed to spec, then turn the mixture screw out about 3 1/2 turns, then turn slowly in while you watch a hand held tach, when the eng reaches its maxium idle speed the mixture is correct, then turn it in 1/3 more to pass smog and maximize fuel economy, then set the final idle with the idle speed screw, also verify the dash pot works so the throttle closes slowly when you raise rpm, if the little decel dashpot is no good replace it.