Question about 1995 Jeep Wrangler

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Hey man cheers for your input

After a few tests and a bit of reading I think the problem is where you suggest. Do you have any ideas on what I should do to resolve it?

Posted by coreylust on

  • coreylust Aug 11, 2008

    Hi again, I did everything said but no luck. I have since taken it to a mechanic and................. he 'reckons' I need to completely rebuild the gearbox or replace it at a cost of $2500 NZ$ I just hope I'm not being conned.

  • coreylust Aug 11, 2008

    Cheers for helping mate no worries your doing a great job



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Call me 253-691-6206 its easier to explain sometimes on the phone. my name is Randy

Posted on Aug 10, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • Anonymous Aug 10, 2008

    Ok that vehicle does NOT have a seperate TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE the transmission is controlled by the PCM disconnect the battery and disconnect the connectors from the PCM blow out any moisture and inspect for any bent pics or chaffed wiring reconnect the PCM connectors and the battery road test it Do you have any wiring under the vehicle hanging that look damaged?

  • Anonymous Aug 11, 2008

    well transmissions are expensive did he dao any type ofdianostics, you better ask him what hes gonna do if that don't work he doesnt expect you to pay him does he?

  • Anonymous Aug 11, 2008

    Im truly sorry I din't hit tis one please dont be angry or loose faith in my abilities Im really sorry



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well its not connected>? or you forgot to ground the ground wire?
if you had a DMM meter , this would be easy,
you can measure the sensor ohms, at any time with tank in car.
and id have never put back any tank with out checking it first.
not me, pulling tanks is no fun.
and empty tank the gauge sender is at max ohms, (lever down)
so is about 100 ohms and 10 ohms full (ball park) RTM
read the FSM read
heck the FSM has a flow chart for these tests. amazing huh?
i dont use it, i use my meter and ohms law.
ill now look online at alldata.
the only think complex is which of 2 systems it is,
in the late 90s most cars changed. to indirect way.
ok , i looked, your car is direct way, (cave man)
its just 2 parts, a gauge and a sender. (sure wires)
the sender is grounded at G751
if the dash temp guage works , then the fuse is not blown , fuse 1.

the tests are cave man simple , all FSM show this.

1: unplug the Yellow/Blue sender wire, at any point
from front (gauge) to sender, any place, there are many.(4 junctions)
now, on the upstream side, key on, and ground this pin for 1min
max, if guage moves pull the ground. (i use $#194 lamp for tests )
i connect my lamp to ground and the other side to the guage,wire.
then key on and see guage move. bingo gauge is 100% good.
cave man easy. (

now the sender.
i measure the ohm.
DMM on 200 ohm scale if manual meter.
i connect black meter to body ground (shiny steel not plastic)
i connect red lead to down stream wire above..Yellow/Blue
it must read 100 ohms empty
not 0 ohms.
not infinity.
if read infinity? the wire is cut, or gound it open or the sender is bad.
if reads 0, the wire is grounded to the body or the the sender is bad (shorted)
do not take my facts on ohms as verbatim,
read the FSM and get the facts.

but i think your tank sender wire is shorted to ground.
some gauges work backwards, and my poor online version
dont cover this. well.
unplug the sensor does guage go full or empty?
most go empty, but not all.
use the lamp to test the gage, get to swing both ways
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