Question about 1985 Honda Civic

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Removing emgine to change clutch plate in 1985 honda civic 1300 lx

I am about to remove the motor to change the ckutch plate, can I do it without taking the gearbox out as well

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I assume you are talking about the clutch to the transmission. They make a tool that will support the engine and allow you to remove the gearbox on most cars without removing the engine. It is a tight fit but much less work.

Posted on Aug 09, 2008

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2 Answers

Can you change clutch plate without removing the engine?


normally you remove t6he transmission to change clutch and pressure plates
is it necessary to replace the clutch plate at all as many slipping clutches can be attributed to faulty hydraulic clutch master cylinders and broken clutch cables
may be if you commented using make , model , type of equipment and symptoms of the problem so that we can get a better idea on how to advise you

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1 Answer

How to remove 1400 Nissan gearbox out


1 Remove battery earth cable.
2 Remove gear shift lever - usually just pulls out.
3 Remove starter motor.
4 Remove bolts holding prop shaft to gearbox final drive, and remove the prop shaft.
5 Remove all bolts around bell housing holding bell housing to engine.
6 Slide gearbox back to slide spigot shaft from clutch plate.
7 Slide gearbox from under vehicle.
Gearbox is now removed out.

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1 Answer

Clutch , presure plate and gearbox remove


You need the right equipment and knowledge to do this job there are a lot of cables wires etc that need to be removed before the gearbox can be loosened and removed.
There are also a lot of special tools required and the job is best done on a ramp or pit to gain access.
Trying to do this on the ground would be difficult and very dangerous also the engine needs to be suspended when the gearbox mounts are removed.
It is impossible to remove the clutch pressure plate, plate and hydraulic bearing on the C4 without removing the gearbox.
Take it to a garage/ clutch specialist.

Dec 26, 2013 | Citroen C4 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I am replacing the clutch on my 1994 B4000 4 w.d. manual transmisiion truck. Just want some detail instructions on how to get the job done


HI! FIRST OF ALL MAKE SURE ALL UR TOOLS R IN GOOD SAFE WORKING CONDITION,ESPECIALLY UR JACK & STANDS, ( CHECK LOAD RATINGS OF JACK & STANDS)OTHERWISE U COULD END UP DEAD OR WITH VERY SERIOUS BODY INJURIES. PARK THE VEHICLE ON A HARD FLAT LEVEL SURFACE ,DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY POST TERMINAL. JACK UP THE VEHICLE TO DESIRED COMFORTABLE HEIGHT ALLOW EASY ACCESS TO VEHICLE UNDER CARRAGE, FRONT UP ,THEN PLACE 2 STANDS, THEN JACK UP THE REAR END ,PLACE 2 STANDS & PUT 4 STANDS UNDER THE VEHCILE, PREF SUB FRAME & OR CHASI RAIL NEAR EACH WHEEL OF THE VEHICLE ,THEN LET THE JACK DOWN SO THE VEHICLE IS RESTING ON ALL 4 STANDS,MAKE SURE THE HAND BRAKE IS OFF & THE VEHICLE IN NEUTRAL GEAR. U WILL NEED A CREEPER WITH CASTOR WHEELS ON IT TO ALLOW MOBILITY WHILST WORKING UNDER THE VEHICLE TO LAY ON .IF U CAN GET SOMEONE TO HELP U GREAT , THE MORE PEOPLE THATS EVEN BETTER AS GEAR BOXES/TRANSFER CASES R BLOODY VERY HEAVY. U WILL NEED TO DISCONNECT THE GEAR LINKAGES FROM THE GEAR BOX, SOME VEHICLES U CAN DO THAT FROM UNDERNEITH,OTHER VEHICLES U MAY HAVE TO REMOVE THE CENTRE CONSOLE IN THE CABIN TO ACCESS THE GEAR STICK BASE PLATE BOLTS, LOOSEN/REMOVE BOLTS & GEAR STICK, IF THERE IS ANOTHER GEAR STICK THERE FOR THE 4WD SELECTION DO THE SAME FOR THAT AS WELL.REMOVE THE FRONT & REAR DRIVE SHAFTS(PROP SHAFTS) , IF U DONT HAVE PLASTIC BUNGS TO SLIDE INTO THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE WHERE THE SHAFTS CAME OUT, DRAIN BOTH THE GEAR BOX & TRANSFER CASE OILS OTHERWISE U WILL BE COVERED IN OIL WHEN REMOVING THE GEARBOX/TRANSFER CASE. THERE WILL BE A DRAIN PLUG IN THE BOTTOM OF THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE. DISCONNECT & WIRING TO GEAR BOX/TRANSFER CASE & STARTER MOTOR TO ALLOW REMOVAL WITHOUT BREAKING ANY WIRES. PLACE A JACK UNDER THE END OF THE BOX TO SUPPORT IT, THEN REMOVE THE REAR SUPPORT MOUNT. LOWER THE JACK SLIGHTLY TO ALLOW EASY ACCESS/REMOVAL OF ALL BELL HOUSING BOLTS INCLUDING THE 2 STARTER MOTOR BOLTS. IF U DONT HAVE AIR TOOLS U MAY FIND THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS VERY HARD TO UNDO BY HAND, MAKE SURE THAT U HAVE A BREAKER BAR & LONG EXTENTSION,USE HALF INCH DRIVE SOCKETS,EXTENTSIONS ETC...WHEN THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS R REMOVED .IF U HAVE A GEAR BOX REMOVAL JACK THAT WOULD BE GREAT, IF U DONT ITS QUITE DANGEROUS, U WILL NEED ANOTHER JACK PLACED UNDER THE MID SECTION OF THE BOX, ITS LONG & HEAVY, U WILL HAVE TO "BALANCE THE WHOLE BOX", BE BLOODY CAREFUL THE BOX DOES NOT ROLL OVER ON TOP OF U OTHERWISE U WILL END UP WITH SERIOUS INJURY. IF THE BOX ROLLS OVER DONT TRY & STOP IT ,JUST GET OF THE WAY REAL FAST & WORRY ABOUT THE REST LATER & LONG AS U R SAFE.ONCE THE BOX IS REMOVED, UNDO ALL THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE PRESSURE PLATE ONTO THE FLY WHEEL. REMOVE THE PRESSURE PLATE & CLUTCH PLATE , U WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE FLY WHEEL BOLTS TOO , WHICH WILL BE VERY HARD WITHOUT A PROPER COMPRESSOR & AIR TOOLS AS THEY R ALL TIGHTENED IN THE FACTORY BY AIR TOOLS OR ROBOTICS.TAKE THE FLY WHEEL TO A MACHINE SHOP & GET IT RESURFACE GROUND TO REMOVE ALL THE HOT SPOTS,CRACKS & SURFACE DISTORTIONS/IRREGULARITIES, OTHERWISE U MAY END UP WITH CLUTCH SHUDDER ON TAKE OFF , THIS IS SOMETIMES CAUSED BY NOT MACHINING THE FLYWHEEL. REFIT THE FLY WHEEL ,LOCK TITE ALL THE BOLTS & RETIGHTEN TO CORRECT TORQUE SPECS, OR A QUICK BLAST WITH AN HALF INCH DRIVE IMPACT GUN, NOT TOO MUCH OTHERWISE U MAY BREAK THE BOLTS.REFIT THE NEW CLUTCH & PRESSURE PLATE ,THE CLUTCH SANDWICHED IN BETWEEN THE PRESSURE PLATE & FLY WHEEL,SECURE THE PRESSURE PLATE TO THE FLY WHEEL,WITH ALL THE BOLTS, DONT TIGHTEN YET AS U HAVE TO CENTRALISE THE CLUTCH PLATE FIRST, FAILING TO DO THIS, U WILL NEVER GET THE BOX IN AGAIN.U HAVE TO USE A CLUTCH CENTRALISING TOOL ,READ THE INSTRUCTION WITH THE TOOL. ONCE THE CLUTCH PLATE IS CENTRAL U MAY GO AHEAD & TIGHTEN ALL THE PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS. 1ST NOTATION,# WHEN TIGHTENING FLY WHEEL & PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS,TIGHTEN IN A CRISS CROSS PATTERN, THINK OF A CLOCK FACE, TIGHTEN 12 OCLOCK, THEN 6 OCLOCK, THEN 3 OCLOCK, THEN 9 OCLOCK ETC...TILL ALL BOLTS R TIGHT.2ND NOTATION# MAKE SURE THE CLUTCH PLATE RAISED SECTION THAT CONTAIN THE SPRINGS IN THE CENTER OF THE CLUTCH PLATE RAISED SECTION FACE BACKWARDS TOWARDS TO PRESSURE PLATE OTHER WISE UR IN SERIOUS TROUBLE. REMOVE & REFIT THE NEW THROW OUT BEARING THAT COMES WITH THE NEW CLUTCH KIT, APPLY SOME HIGH TEMPERATURE WHEEL BEARING GREASE TO THE INPUT SHAFT WHERE THE BEARING SLIDES FORWARD & BACKWARDS ON THE GEARBOX.A QUICK NOTE, SOME THROW OUT BEARINGS, U HAVE TO REMOVE THE BEARING FROM THE SLIDE MOUNT & SOME THROWOUT BEARINGS COME COMPLETE WITH BEARING & MOUNT AS ONE PIECE.THE HARDEST PART OF THIS WHOLE OPERATION IS GETTING THE BOX TO SLIDE BACK INTO POSTION, IT IS VERY TRICKY, IF THE BOX IS NOT PERFECTLY LINED UP WITH THE MOTOR U WONT GET IT IN, U MAY HAVE TO JACK UP THE FRONT OF THE MOTOR SO IT IS TILLED BACK IN ALIGHNMENT WITH THE BOX.ONCE ALL BACK TOGETHER, JUST RING UP MAZDA SERVICE DEPARTMENT & ASK THEM WHAT TYPE OF OIL TO PUT INTO THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE , WHICH CAN BE FILLED IN THE SIDE INPECTION PLUGS IN THE SIDE OF THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASES. MOST 4WDS GEARBOX & TRANSFER TAKE GL4 OR GL5 HYPOID OILS. GL4 = 75W/80 WEIGHT OIL & A GL5 = 80W/90 OIL WHICH IS A THICKER OIL. IN SOME VERY RARE INSTANCES SOME GEARBOXES TAKE ENGINE OIL OR A DEXTRON 3 OIL WHICH IS USED IN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.ALSO CHECK THE OWNERS MANUAL IF U HAVE IT, THEY CAN BE HELPFUL.GOOD LUCK & WORK SAFELY, REMEMBER THE BOX IS VERY HEAVY & DANGEROUS SHOULD IT FALL ON TOP U, MY ADVICE ,GET IT DONE BY A MECHANIC..

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1 Answer

How to remove clutch on 92 festiva and replace new one?


firstly are you very mechanically minded? if not dont attempt this as its not easy and will require special tools... such as the tool to line the clutch exactly in line with where the gearbox shaft goes into the motor.... if you are going to do it you need to search around the outside of the gearbox and undo all the bolots that hold it to the motor... once every bolt holding it on is removed you will need to pull or push it away from the motor so it can drop down ( the car will need to be on blocks or a hoist.... once gearbox is off you will need to remove the clutch and pressure plate .... i would recommend if you are replacing clutch to possibly do pressure plate also... once these are removed you will need to fi the new one.... this is where you need the alignment tool... without it you will more then likely not get it in the right spot.. once it is placed onto the motor you can think about putting the gearbox back in... same process as removing only in reverse.... hope this helps... i will once again mention you will need certain toolds to do this job easily... any more questions feel free to ask...

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1 Answer

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