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From what I just read about your vehicle,it has a history problem with the gauge,may be the coolant temperature sender or the gauge,it says the whole cluster will have to be changed to be fixed if the gauge is bad,found some forums and all had gauge problems.Right above the coolant temperature sensor is the coolant temperature sender,this is what sends the temperature to your gauge,the sensor sends a signal to the computer,they may have replaced the wrong one,here's a link to the sensor,the hole above it is where the sender goes,it's a one prong part,the sensor is a 2 prong part.A lot of people don't know that there are 2 types of coolant temperature gauge sending unit and sensor.
the coolant could be just overflow,, as far as the temp,, replace the thermostat as a first thing, when your car gets that hot, it causes readings to be sent to the computer that sends mixed signals to other parts of the car, The first thing you should do is pull the diagnostic codes. This will tell you if the thermostat is dead.check the temp sending unit, it is located under the upper radiator hose, 19mm wrench will take it off, it costs about 20 bucks but you also need to replace the thermostat. all in all its about 25 bucks total and all your gauges work fine....
Check for a faulty engine coolant temperature switch. This is the switch that talks to the cars computer and the fan relays. (It is NOT the same as the separate coolant temperature sender which is what sends the temperature to the coolant temp gauge on the dash instruments.) If the engine coolant temp switch is stuck open or in the cool mode, it may not trigger the fan relays. Meanwhile, your coolant temp on the dash gauge will look normal.
Sounds like you may have a problem with your coolant temperature sending unit or thermostat, locate your sending unit, unplug the electrical connector run a jumper wire across the 2 wires inside the connector the gauge should read hot when the jumper wires are connected and when you remove the jumper wire it should go back to cold this verifies your gauge and all related wiring are working properly, if it doesnt work as described you either have a wiring problem or a bad temp gauge, next if your heater output is suffering you more then likely have a weak thermostat staying open or partially open replace the thermostat with a new unit, however if you arent experiencing any heater trouble replace your coolant temperature sending unit because your thermostat is more then likely working properly.....
oil pressure sending unit is close to oil filter.temp sending unit on front of intake.check fuses for temp sending unit and coolant temp gauges if all is good make sure grounding is good.if grounds good your gauges is faulty.
Locate the temperature sending unit and pull the wire off of it. Turn the key to the on position (do not start) then have someone touch that wire to a ground source and the temp gauge should go from one extreme to another (cold to hot). If the gauge does that, you have a bad sending unit...if it does not move, you have a bad gauge or problem with the wiring to the gauge.
All the temp sending unit does is act like a variable resistor depending on the coolant temp...if it is bad, it will give you a false reading.
If you changed the coolant temperature sensor and it had a 5 volt ref signal to it then you replaced the wrong part. You need to replace the coolant temperature sending unit.
The coolant temp "sensor" is an input to the ECM for your fuel injection system.
The coolant temp "sending unit" is for coolant temp reading at the gauge, It is an NTC switch (negative temperature coefficient) which means as temp increases/resistance decreases.