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Re: Head Stud Tention
The factory head bolts are 58 ft/bls if you have arp head studs they are 80 ft/lbs. Dont for get to start in the center and work your way out. also the the 12mm bolt that goes from the head to the timing cover is 12ft/lbs. have fun!
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if the job was done properly , re-torquing the head bolts is not necessary
what is very necessary however is to clean out the stud holes and threads before refitting the head and applying thread lubricant to the stud threads
the problem is when there is oil or water left in the holes before fitting that muck creates a false torque reading
the setting is reached but the head is still loose so re-torquing the studs will sill cause that hydraulic lock situation and the head will still be loose
also all head studs are not always the same length so a stud will bottom out at tension but again the head will be loose
and lastly, head gaskets have a sealant applied that glues the head to the block on operating temperature and that will now be destroyed by the oil and water
all of this is explained in detail in the workshop mmanual
If it is a front rotor, it may be cheaper to replace the rotor, because you will need to pay to press the stud out and then pay to press a new one in or draw the new one in with extra nuts.
If it is a rear stud, there may be a tool to press the stud out while on the vehicle. If the vehicle is a 4x4 you would have more work to remove a front hub. Some autoparts stores loan tools.
Drilling out the stud takes a lot of work, grinding off the stud head from the backside may work if the stud is not too tapered. But you could grind the stud head off and still not be able to pull it through the outside because of a taper.
I suspect that the head gasket is not under the proper tension
IT is very common for people to refit heads without first cleaning out the head stud holes ( thread tap and compressed air)
there is normally water or oil in the hole and as the stud is screwed it it compresses the water/oil and reaches tension by bottoming out on the obstruction but the gasket is not tight
my understanding of your problem that the head gasket keeps blowing as soon as the engine starts.
if that is the case ,the head tension on the bolts is insufficient, the liner is too low to touch the head. remove the head and clean out the stud holes with a thread tap , blow out all muck ( holes filled with water,oil and muck allow the stud to bottom out before reaching the correct tension) and ensure that the stud lengths are sorted so that a stud too long will not go in a short hole requirement
measure the liner protrusion above the block and check with the maintenance specifications for the liner height. from experience i would tip that the holes are not clean
there is a head gasket problem probably from the head bolts not holding the head down tight. When working on a head always make sure that tye head stud holes ore clean by using a thread tap and blowing the holes out with compressed air. Oil, water and gunk will stop the head stud from screwing all the way in yet you will still achieve the tension setting because the stud has bottomed out--hence the head gasket is not under correct pressure and the head studs are not under the correct tension.
probably not as there are head stud patterns to consider and water jacket holes that have to be aligned. Best place to ask is an engine re-conditioner shop where they have various heads that they can show you a comparison with Another point to consider is the cam drive type for the later head. Early motor cam in block and later cam in head
remove the wheel
using a hammer and punch knock the broken stud out
fit the new stud from behind use over size nuts as spacers fit the stud nut and apply tension
using the hammer and punch from the rear on the head of the stud knock it in as you keep the tension on the stud nut
keep the process going until the stud is fully seated on the head of the stud
Stud removal can be either very hard or easy. Just depends on how hard access is to the stud. You will need to center punch the broken stud. Then use a very good high speed steel drill bit to drill a pilot hole in to the stud. Tap an easy out in to the hole you drilled into the stud and hopefully it will break loose. Worse case scenario is you might have to remove the head and use a torch to heat it for removal or actually use the torch to blow it out of the hole. If you must remove the head and need to use a torch to remove the stud send the head out to a good machine shop. These shops have people there that are qualified to do this process. To much heat can damage the threads in the hole or ruin the head. Good luck. If you ahve more questions please feel free to ask.