Question about 2004 Honda Odyssey

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Did your head gasket fail?

Hi, I posted the torque values to answer your question but I was wondering if your head gasket failed. Recently, I was experiencing the smell of antifreeze for a couple weeks and finally noticed one day my temperature gauge up in the red. I guess I had a slow leak and finally noticed it when the extreme heat affected the a/c performance. Well, I've discovered a coolant leak between cylinder block and head at the left front corner of the engine. I have a 2004 Odyssey EX with 46000 miles on it.

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Grayson Jones

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Yep. Defiantly sounds like you got a blowed head gasket. Probably a warped or cracked head as well. You need to have it pressure tested to find out for sure if it is a head gasket. If it is then you will have to pull the head off send it to a machine shop and have it checked for warpage and or cracks. The 3.5 has 2 heads. Do them both.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/grayson_15ffad3aaeb66fef

Posted on May 25, 2017

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Anonymous

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SOURCE: coolant leak at the front of the engine

The water pump is located along the left side of the engine underneath the plastic covers. You coolant leak is most likely a radiator hose.

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

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dmsr63

Douglas Hansen

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SOURCE: I have a 1994 Honda accord ex. It is leaking antifreeze

If your antifreeze is leaking into your engine oil, it will destroy the engine quickly. Check the level of both. But...you need to get a pressure gauge on it to apply pressure to the cooling system to see where the coolant is going first. White smoke is a sign of coolant in the engine oil.

Posted on Aug 14, 2009

sorrento45

  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: I need the torque values

The exhaust maniifold to head nuts are 23 ft lbs.

The manifold to exhaust pipe nuts are 40 ft lbs.

Posted on Oct 10, 2010

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Will re torqing the head bolts o na 86 toyota 4x4 with a 4y engine help temporarily with oil in the water ? Im also loosing water but cant see a leak


if the job was done properly , re-torquing the head bolts is not necessary
what is very necessary however is to clean out the stud holes and threads before refitting the head and applying thread lubricant to the stud threads
the problem is when there is oil or water left in the holes before fitting that muck creates a false torque reading
the setting is reached but the head is still loose so re-torquing the studs will sill cause that hydraulic lock situation and the head will still be loose
also all head studs are not always the same length so a stud will bottom out at tension but again the head will be loose
and lastly, head gaskets have a sealant applied that glues the head to the block on operating temperature and that will now be destroyed by the oil and water
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Can I retorque the head bolts on my subaru forester 2003, I've just recently replaced the head gaskets?


Gaylene Green,


If you already had a heating issue... just skip over all this meaningless RE-Torque "STUFF"

If there was no overheating
before this procedure... I would suggest either the WRONG GASKETS were used... or they were somehow reversed blocking a water passage).

TORQUE has two ways to go...
Too loose = leaks (water and/or combustion)
Too TIGHT = Broken bolt/stripped threads

If it will make you happy

Sure... TIGHTEN... and then RE-TIGHTEN... after running.

That USED to be the way it was done... until they came out with WONDERFUL "Modern" head gaskets... (tighter... never looser... and NEVER (MORE) too tight.

If you think your torque is too much... you MUST also follow the REVERSE torque pattern when loosening (else risk a fractured casting (FOR REALS)).

Although I seriously doubt the desired effect...

The answer is SURE...!! Go for it... Re-Torque...

(Could not possibly hurt... unless you do it wrong!)

Just not sure of the "OVERHEAT" diagnosis...
sounds more than a bit odd.


***
If there is any previous history of overheating... I would pursue that as an INDEPENDANT issue.

Thermostat, defective water pump... radiator cap... or crusted up radiator (any or all of the above + rotten casting plugs in the engine).

Head torque... Naaah.

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What is causing the problem why has the gasket failed for the second time, I have tightened it down to the correct settings?


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You have to get either a hayes manual or follow a procedure online if you are replacing the head gasket. If you are not replacing the gasket do not "re-torque" the head bolts thinking that you can fix a head gasket leak.

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Can i remove one cylinder head and replace gasket?without doing both?and what is the torque sequence? This is on a pontiac 1976 400 ..grand prix


Yes, you can just do one head gasket, although I wouldn't recommend it.
If the head gasket has failed, it's usually because the engine has overheated. If you know that the engine has overheated, it would be best to do both heads.
When an engine overheats, the head warps a little. It doesn't take much to change the internal pressures on the gasket, and when the gasket area between the cylinders starts to lighten up a little, the gasket fails.
To do the job properly, take the head(s) to a qualified automotive machine shop and have the head resurfaced. Even a slightly warped head will be unable to keep a head gasket.
After a head has been resurfaced, it's relatively easy to put it back together.
NOTE!!
The machine shop will tell you the proper torque and torque sequence. Usually start from the center and work your way out evenly, going from side to side, and top to bottom, but get specific information for YOUR engine from the machine shop.
NEVER replace a head gasket without having the head resurfaced.

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