What is the right sized battery because i brought one that might be too small and only starts once then needs recharging it does'nt even turn the starter motor over just clicks but when charged no worries
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Re: 93 magna elite
Almost any generic 12V automotive battery should work. Any automotive shop will be glad to make recommendations as to the battery capacity. As long as it's at least a passenger car style/size battery it should definitely last more than one "start".
I'm suspecting couple of things. First the battery is defective, or second, your car's charging system is shot. Hook up a volt meter across your battery and while someone is reving the engine above 4000RPM measure the charging voltage - it should be at least 14V, and about 13V at idle - if you don't get that, disconnect the battery after you start the engine(very carefully-don't short it out), and measure again across the charging connectors. If you don't get those voltages then you probably have a defective alternator, rectifier/regulator module, or both. Sometimes those modules are built right into the alternator. You might also have a bad or intermittent connection on one of the charging cables.
Only after you've verified the charging voltage do the next few checks:
Run the engine for at least 20 minutes, then turn it OFF.
What's the battery's voltage when the car is OFF? If it's only 12V or lower replace the battery? How low does the voltage drop during cranking? If it's less than 11V replace the battery.
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I would want to know if you have at least 12 volts at the battery posts, and also at the starter. You need to know if the cables are causing the problem, or something else. Once the engine starts, it should be running off the alternator, but it still needs the battery in the circuit.
It's possible someone used the jumper wire to load side of fuel pump relay, gray wire. That supplies voltage to fuel pump motor, the fuel pump fuse is hot all the time. The fuel pump will run all the time even with key off, running down the battery. They used the jumper because of some kind of problem. Can you unplug the relay and check relay terminals, where the relay plugs in. Use a test light, either a problem on the load or control side of relay. Are the relay terminals numbered, like 30 and 87, maybe 85 and 86 also?
Does the vehicle start? If not, then check battery voltage. If below 12.5 volts, then recharge the battery and retest system charging voltage (should be around 14 volts) If battery is fine and vehicle starts, then check fuse box and wiring loom connectors.
It's likly you did alot of damage. First with a well charged and correctly installed battery it's best to cheal some other things first. The large fuses near the battery( fuseable links) need to be checked to see that their connected. Use a test light to test all of them. ( a test light is a tool that has a bulb in the handle of a tllt that lloks like a clear ice pick and has a wire coming out the end oif the handle. on the end of the wire is a clip to connect to ground ( the negative post on the battry) and as you touch the piont to the positive post of the battery ( or anythign powered) the light will light in the handle showing you that the power is getting to there) The test light should be as bright as the connection at the batery was or you have detrcted a poor connection if the light is'nt as bright as the battery was. Going though all the wires coming from the battery ( theirs alot) repair any that are dead. Then go to the fuse box and do the same thing. Use the test light as a blown fuse can (look ) good and be bad. on the tops of the fuses theirs a little bare place on the fuse and just touch the test light and if lights up on both sides it's good .. If it lights on one side it's bad it it does'nt light at all it may not be on. ( key on or lights on or key turned to crank may need to happen for somes fuses to light the test light) If one side of the fuse lights the light the other side sould light too. If all the fuses check good and the jeep cranks but does'nt run you still need to check it just like any no start car. If it does'nt crank fix that first. Once cranking see that it's got spark. ( plug a plug wire and connect it to a spare plug laying on the head and chank the engine to see if theirs spark. With spark them cheak to see if it'll run with added fuel. Remove the air inlet hose on the throttle body slose a little gas it their and put the hose back on and crank it and if it starts you know it'll runn if it was getting fuel. Cheaking for fuel pump operation is next and the fuse from the pump can be on the fire wall on the passenger side. get under the jeep and put your ear against the gas tank and listen as someone turns the key one and if you hear the fuel pump come on you can say the pump works if not you need to find the fuel pump fuse and the realy that turns the pump on as this short to powercan back feed and blw relays and fuses. Most of the time theingtion module can blown on a back feed and the computer can too but the fuse often protects the computer. The computer is the box ( small cerial box size on the firewall on the passenger side) This part has to be programmed to work so a used one is no help as an old computer can'nt be reprogrammed ( to pervent thief) so a new computer has to be bought and programmed to match your car ( this is best left to a professional shop) I've even had other professional shops come to me to do this work cause you only get one chance at it and the other things i just told you about are much more likly to happen then computer failure and if the computer did fail some of these other problems have happened too and they'll need to be found.. iF THE FUSEABLE LINKS HAVE BEEN REPAIRED OR REPLACED IN THE PAST THEY CAN CAUSE THE COMPUTER TO FAIL AS THEY MIGHT NOT BLOW AND BLOW THE COMPUTER INSTAED.
Sounds like a battery if it just clicks once.You hardly get a whir whir out of the starter right?The lights may appear somewhat normal because they don't need much power to turn on but the starter needs LOTS of power to turn over.The average life of an alkaline battery is about 6 years.Good luck! Greg
We had the same issue with our 2007 Yukon Denali XL. Died on us twice after sitting for short periods of time; once we watched a DVD with the engine off and battery died within 10 minutes. The dealership kept it overnight to troubleshoot why the battery died so quickly. They said the radio was "pulling" too much from the battery. (They supposably fixed it) But again a few days later the battery died again after sitting overnight. We brought it back to the dealership and they brought in a GMC "expert" to replace the entire DVD/CD/Navigation system. They also replaced our battery with a much larger battery, similar to the ones that GMC puts in there diesel trucks. They had our Denali for 5 days, but it appears to be fixed now.
Getting it fixed correctly wasn't without headaches, but it was all covered under warranty, including the battery. And they are updating the nav w/ the new edition disc as well for no charge.
Start by checking the battery even if it's new. If the alternator is not charging it, it will go dead even if it's new. If a recharge gets it started, then get the alternator checked. Once running a simple check of the Alt. is to put a voltmeter across the battery terminals and see if you have 14v which usually indicates it's OK. If the Alt. is OK look for a battery drain. Something staying on all the time even when the engine is off.