Brakes just dont seem right.. dealer said they put on new front rotors when i 1st complained.. but only got alittle better, brakes still seem like i have to apply with alot of force, when with my wifes older car i can just touch them and the pedals stiff and hard and i trust it will stop me. The 2004 GMC 1500 4x4 pedal seems to travel to far. should they replace pads..or something else?

If you have access to a lift put it on and look at the area where the noise is coming from if you have a small camera try and put it somewhere you may be able to see what it is doing.
Good luck.

Poor quality brake pads or improper machining of the brake rotors is the common cause. Use factory OEM disk pads from the dealer, not the cheapest thing out there to avoid this type of problem with noise. Note the noise doesn't affect braking...

There is an ongoing problem with squeaking front brakes on dodge rams and charger rt.From 2000 up to present Ihave been told dodge used cheap pads and rotors on a lot of there cars and trucks.I own a 2008 charger rt with 40000 miles and changed brake pads and rotors twice and they still squeak.i herd only remedy is to buy upgraded pads and rotors but these are much more expensive then stock parts.For now i am putting up with squeak till i get the extra money to get rid of noise.the brakes wont fail they just squeak.(I know very annoying)for now i just turn up radio a little louder LoL.But until dodge admits there using cheap ???? parts complaining to dealer didnt help.Good luck. PS A friend of mine put on slotted rotors and expensive pads and yes the still squeak.So mabye it has somthing to do with calipers but again dodge wont admit this.

the wobble is from heat warping the rotor from applying the brakes fair too hard and fast or simply from long term wear

That sounds high to me but this is the kind of thing that dose not have to go to a dealer. Shop around for a better price. Check with independent brake and muffler shops. Do this by just calling them and asking what it would cost to have the following work done; front rotors machined, new front pads, rear drums and rear brakes. To be on the safe side also ask about the price to replace the front rotors as sometimes you have to replace them too if they are too far gone’ worn, gouged or warped. Make sure you are comparing the same work at each shop and also get information about the warranty (many places offer life time parts but may gouge your on labor when you come back). Once you have the shops rated by price and warranty go the one of your choice and have them give you a brake inspection and tell you want needs to be done. You don't want to be the one telling them what needs to be done unless you are 100% sure of the needed work. If there are big differences in prices for the work on the front and the back between shops you can have one shop do the front and the other do the rear brakes Depends how much effort you want to invest in gathering prices. Just be sure the shop tells you want needs to be done. By the way, the vibration that was your original problem is most likely warped front brake rotors.
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to be honest havent a clue here ,but the most likely causes are a dodgy computer or a pump playing up

Check your rear brakes. If the rears are not adjusted or functioning properly, they will put more strain on the front brakes, thus heating the rotors up too fast. Since the rotors in the front cannot dissipate the heat fast enough, they will most likely continue to warp until the problem with the rear brakes is fixed. Always remember: when installing brakes you need to lube all of the key points. On disc brakes, lube the area where the pads sit in the hangar, make sure the clips are free of dirt and rust. Lube the pad backing (not the part that contacts the rotor!) and be sure to remove and lube the sliding pins on the caliper well. I personally like using AGS's Sil Glyde or CeramLube. These withstand heat the best. On drums, lube the metal side of the shoe that contacts the backing plate, and be sure to lube your adjusters well. Also, very important: if you have rear drums, make sure they are adjusted the right way, you dont want them to drag, but you dont want to go thru another set of front rotors again! Good luck, 99% of the time, too much focus is put on the front brakes and not the rears. Focus on the rears!

Thanks for asking!

Have a different mechanic pull the calipers and inspect the pads, chances are you have a stuck piston and the pad has worn out. At the same time also check the Rotors for rough surfaces. You may have had excessive heat and caused the steel to harden up in places and this area won't wear at the same rate.

Just a thought ....... check for uneven tire pressure , or different tire sizes.

All you have to do is take the calipers off crack open the bleeder of the side you are working on leave the old pad in the caliper and press the pad in as far as it will go tighten bleeder clean the rotors with brake clean to get the oily substance off they put on during shipping to keep them from rusting put rotor back in place and put new pads in caliper if they give you grease for the caliper sliders put some on the caliper bolts and sliders the thing the bolts go into on the caliper so they move fairly easy this way your brakes will work better and last longer put caliper back in place tighten caliper bolts snug usually with a ratchet like a good 3/8 ratchet then do the other side fill up the master cylinder with proper brake fluid usually dot3 but should say on master cylinder cap bleed brakes if you did just the front bleed the passenger side first pump pedal a few times dont go all the way to the floor have someone open the bleeder on the right front passenger front while holding pedal down with just a little pressure one foot on pedal one under pedal so it dont go to the floor then do the same for the other side check fluid start vehicle if pedal is good go for a test drive and thats it.