When I start the car after fifteen minutes of driving temperature gauge indicate that coolant reach maximun temperature and cooling fan starts to run and coolant temp still at max.

The gauge in the instrument cluster could be going bad ! maybe. Is that what your going by ? You need to have it hooked up to a scan tool ,not a code reader . It will tell what the ECT - engine coolant temperature sensor is reporting to the PCM - engine computer .The PCM turns on the cooling fans when the temp. reaches 262 degrees ! Are the cooling fans coming on ? Thermostat sticking ! Go to harbor freight an buy a Laser Temp Gun Infrared Thermometer , $30.00 . point it at the upper radiator hose an see what the actual temp is !
Engine Coolant Indicators
TEMP ?€¢
The instrument panel cluster (IPC) illuminates the TEMP indicator when the powertrain control module (PCM) determines that the coolant temperature is more than 128?°C (262?°F). The IPC receives a discrete input from the PCM requesting illumination.

?€¢
The IPC performs the display test at the start of each ignition cycle. The IPC illuminates the TEMP indicator.

Is the cooling system full of coolant ?
The instrument panel cluster (IPC) displays the engine coolant temperature as determined by the engine control module (ECM). The IPC receives a serial data message from the ECM indicating the engine coolant temperature. The IPC receives the coolant temperature information via serial data message from the body control module (BCM). The engine coolant temperature gage defaults to 60?°C (140?°F) or below if:
?€¢
The ECM detects a malfunction in the engine coolant temperature sensor circuit.

?€¢
The IPC detects a loss of serial data communications with the ECM.

?€¢
The IPC detects a loss of serial data communications with the BCM


Infrared Thermometer Gun Review

Check first your coolant level. Start engine and turn on ac open hood see if cooling fans are running, if fans are running and coolant level is ok temperature should stay normal. If temperature rises squeeze coolant hose, it should be firm like you could feel pressure on the hose a sign that the water pump is good. Thermostat opens only when coolant reach normal operating temperature.

First replace your Thermostat, and then have your Electric cooling fan checked.

Try getting a scan at Autozone, Advance, or Oreillys autoparts. They will do it for free. Or if you just want to buy a few parts, observe if the cooling fan even comes on. There are 2 temperature sensors on most Ford's and one makes the dash gauge work and the other makes the Electric cooling fan work. Just have the car a little warm and when you get the dash gauge to move, disconnect the temp sensors one at a time until you find the one that controls the gauge. The remaining sensor controls the cooling fan. Remember, the gauges only work when the engine is running.

If your cooling fan still does not work, ask the parts guys how many speeds your vehicle is suppose to have on its fan. Usually, when the A/C is turned on, high speed kicks in; for sure when you have overheating, it should be on high speed. The Electric cooling fan has a Relay that can be bad. The fan motor can also be bad.

The loss of Antifreeze in the system can be from boil over. As long as the car runs decent, there is no reason to expect a blown head gasket. With the Radiator cap off, you may be able to see bubbles on the surface of the radiator if a head gasket is allowing compression to get into the cooling system.

Just start with the easiest things like a Thermostat, then go to the next solution and work your way through the possibilities. I hope my comments are useful to you.

Start with engine cool, remove rad cap, start engine and turn heater on. Top up rad level and Let engine run until it get's up to normal operating temperature with cap off and add coolant as you see it go down. Watch in rad for coolant to start moving quicker, once gauge gets close to normal temperature, indicating that thermostat has opened. Wait until you see that 2 or 3 times, then top up and install rad cap. Top up coolant return bottle to proper level . You'll want to keep a close eye on coolant return bottle level for next little while. If coolant got that low in the first place, you have a leak somewhere that will have to be found.

It could be a plugged heater core or heater control problem. I assume the blower is working, but the air is cold. The first thing to check is the coolant level, make sure there is coolant in the resivoir. Next see if the temerature gauge reaches the normal operating temperature range. If the gauge reads cold most of the time, it would tell you that the thermsotat is faulty and not allowing the engine to reach full operating temperature. If your car doesn't have a temp gauge, the blue cold engine light might stay on for an extended period of time. The thermostat is supposed to not allow coolant flow in the radiator until the engine reaches operating temperature. If you drive the car for a couple of minutes, from cold start, the radiator or upper hose should be cool until the engine reaches operating temp.

That means your thermostat opened and is functioning properly. It's when it goes up is when you need to be concerned.

Your English is very good.

From what you have described, which is a rapid over heating of the radiator coolant fluid and therefore a hot engine condition, it would appear that the thermostat in the engine's cooling system is faulty.

If the thermostat is sticking in the closed or nearly closed position temporarily, there will be no flow or very little coolant flow between the engine and the radiator and the engine will overheat.

You have advised that after the engine is shut off , and radiator coolant fluid has cooled, you re-start the engine and drive the car without the overheating condition occurring again and the radiator coolant temperature is normal. This time there is no overheating because the thermostat is working normally.

You should have the thermostat replaced as soon as possible because allowing the engine to overheat can cause very expensive engine damage.

If you had a continuing overheating condition then I would suspect both the thermostat and the water pump. However as the overheating seems to be only temporary, and clears itself after you have shut down the engine and re-started it 10 minutes later (without further overheating arising) then I think you only have a faulty thermostat.

Please also check that the electric fans which draw air through the radiator are operating. These run on a temperature sensor and will switch on automatically once the radiator coolant fluid reaches a certain temperature and then switch off again when the fluid temperature reduces. You will hear them running once they start up. If these fans are not working the radiator coolant can quickly overheat in various driving and temperature conditions because there will be insufficient air flow through the radiator to cool the fluid. If the temperature sensor is faulty or has died, or if the electric motors running the fans are faulty, the fans will not operate.

I hope this helps.

You probably need to bleed the cooling system properly.

Open the cooling system bleeder screws.

Slowly fill the cooling system with a 50/50 coolant mixture until coolant runs freely out of bleeder screws.
Close the cooling system bleeder screws
Install the coolant pressure cap
Start the engine.
Run the engine at 2,000 - 2,500 RPM until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. (midway on gauge)
Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes.
Shut the engine off.
Allow the engine to completely cool.
Top off the coolant as necessary.
Run engine again at 2000 - 2500 RPM until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
Allow engine to idle until cooling fans come on. It should come on with the gauge about 3/4 of the way to red. - if it gets to where is touches the red, shut down immediately.
When the fan comes on, put your hand behind the fan and observe the temperature of the air coming from the fan. It should feel hot. If it is blowing cold air, the coolant is not circulating through the radiator like it should. This could be caused by lots of things including an improper/defective thermostat, corroded water pump impeller, or a blown head gasket.

Thermostat and Coolant Temp Sensor is What I Recomend Replacing on this Vehicle

cooling fan has a relay. check it first. Then check the ECT, Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. It is on the engine and sends a signal to the PCM, Engine Computer.
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Section 03-03: Engine Cooling 1996 Aspire Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Cooling Fan, Electric WARNING: WHEN WORKING IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT, STAY CLEAR OF THE FAN BLADE. BECAUSE IT IS ELECTRIC AND TEMPERATURE SENSITIVE, IT CAN START AT ANY TIME IF THE IGNITION IS ON.
The electric cooling fan is an electro-drive type. Its operation depends upon engine temperature and ignition switch (11572) position. If engine coolant temperature reaches 97°C (207° F) and the ignition switch is in the ON position, the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT sensor) (12A648) sends a signal to the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) which turns the engine cooling fan motor (8K621) and fan blade assembly on. Because it cannot operate unless the ignition switch is ON, the engine cooling fan motor and fan blade assembly does not operate after engine shutdown. The fan control relay (FC relay) is located in the LH front corner of the engine compartment, between the battery (10655) and the headlamp assembly. Circuit protection is provided by a 30A fuse labeled COOLING FAN in the main fuse junction panel to the left of the battery. If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, an additional relay is installed in the circuit. The A/C clutch control relay (19D572) bypasses the engine temperature portion of the circuit. The bypass circuit allows the engine cooling fan motor to operate whenever the A/C switch is engaged.
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Fuel pump/sender access is through cover under rear seat.


Fuel Gauge

1. Remove the instrument cluster. Refer to the procedure in this section.
   

1. Using a jumper, connect the battery positive terminal to the fuel gauge "+" terminal and the battery negative terminal to the fuel gauge "-" terminal.
   

1. Connect one lead of a Rotunda Instrument Gauge System Tester 014-R1063 or equivalent to the "F-U" terminal of the fuel gauge (9280), and connect the other lead to the "-" terminal of the fuel gauge.
   

1. Adjust the instrument gauge system tester to the resistances shown in the illustration.
   
   
   
   
   

1. If the fuel gauge does not operate as specified, replace the fuel gauge. If the fuel gauge is OK, return to the Pinpoint Test.
   

Fuel Level Sensor

1. Remove the fuel level sensor (9275). Refer to Section 10-01 for the removal procedure.
   
2. Measure the resistance between terminal A and terminal B of the fuel level sensor.
   
   Connector Shown From Component Side

1. Adjust the fuel tank float to the following positions:

1. If the resistances are not as specified, replace the fuel level sensor. If the fuel level sensor is OK, return to the Pinpoint Test.
   

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