Ok. I'm getting a power draw somewhere in the factory wiring under the dashboard. i know this much because a couple days ago while i was driving, the truck suddenly shut itself off and then restarted with no working gauges. I checked and replaced the fuse for the gauges and as soon as i went to turn the key to start the truck up again, the fuse popped. And then when i was driving today, the truck ran fine until it died completely and had to be jumped to get it to start. So whatever is drawing the power has killed the alternator also.
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Car not starting all the time ? Dead battery ? explain please . Won't start after sitting ? They don't want to get into it to much , still under warranty . Factory warranty work does pay that much . You may have a parasitic draw on the electrical system . With all the computers on the vehicle , one may not be powering down draining the battery . Or something else maybe staying on . Improved Methods to Find Parasitic Draw Battery Drains Overnight
take a count of what you have running and how much power each item draws. It it is more that the output from the alternator then you will need a bigger alternator. An accredited auto electrician should have a cable clamp amp meter that will give you an idea of the total current draw. Check the condition and tension of the drive belt as if it is hard or loose then the alternator will not work at full capacity
You have a short somewhere. A fuse is a protective device against too much current. A spike in current indicates a free flow of electricity through the fuse. No way should the ecu be drawing more than the fuse can handle. A short somewhere would draw a LOT more power than the fuse can handle and would blow the fuse.
NEVER replace a fuse with a higher amperage fuse. Use only the recommended size fuse. If it keeps blowing, you still have a problem. Fuses are cheap, burning your car to the ground will be expensive.
if it continues to blow fuses theres a short in the system somewhere. start checking wiring under hood and near the engine to see if one or more has melted and grounded out. check the body grounds make sure there tight and connected. make sure the neg small cable off the battery is connected to the frame and hasnt come loose. start with this. somewhere theres a short. hope this helps
there is a fuse in the IPM intergrated power module behind the battery. also check for a fuse called IOD ignition-off draw sometimes they pop too. other then that bust out the voltage meter go to town on the fuses and power outlets might have a short somewhere.
You need to check if some accessory is drawing power when the car is not running.
About any inexpensive digital multimeter will have a 10 Amp unswitched range.
You would need to detach the negative (ground) cable from the battery and put the meter in series with the leads plugged into it to access that range.
- Do NOT turn on anything while so connected! It will fry the meter.
Normally, there will be a very small amount of current flowing even with everything 'off.' This is normal as there are things still 'on' even though the car isn't running; the ECU will draw a tiny bit, your radio will too and any kind of clock that keeps time will also draw some current.
If you find anything over 1 ampere, you have a problem which must be found as this will drain any normal battery over a two-day period.
One item may have a failed part and cause this; your alternator.
It has semiconductor parts in it (normally 6) called diodes and if one has been slightly damaged, it can draw current from the battery with the engine off and not light the warning light on the dashboard.