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Did you replace the MAF mass airflow sensor ? If you did not, clean it with electronics cleaner so it won't damage the sensor. that could be the cause. also the EGR vavle would cause a problem like that.
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If you're experiencing a rough idle in your 2011 Nissan Altima, the first thing you should do is diagnose the issue. The Torque app can provide you with some diagnostic codes which can help you narrow down the problem. In your case, two current fault codes and two pending fault codes were recorded. The current fault codes point to a system that is running too lean on Bank 2 and misfiring in multiple cylinders. The pending codes indicate a system that is too lean on Bank 1 and a cylinder 2 misfire.
To start troubleshooting, you should begin by checking the spark plugs and ignition coils. Both of these components are integral to the proper functioning of the engine. If they are faulty, they can cause misfiring and rough idling. You should also inspect the mass air flow sensor, as a faulty one can throw off the air-fuel ratio of the engine.
Finally, if the problem still persists after inspecting the spark plugs, ignition coils, and mass air flow sensor, then you should consider consulting a professional mechanic for further diagnosis. They can provide a more accurate assessment of the issue and recommend the best course of action.
You will need to get a Good Mechanic to look at this. There are 3 completely different problems here so it will need to be properly checked out. I've listed the Trouble Code definitions below.
-The knock sensor looks for signs of the fuel igniting at the wrong point in the sequence.
-The Crankshaft position sensor checks the pistons are in the correct position for the engine electronics to be in the correct sequence.
-The Air Control system is a set of valves that adjust air flow through the engine when running at different speeds. (Slow needs less air, fast needs more air).
Knock Sensors and Crankshaft Position Sensors can be in some ridiculous places on an engine and usually need major surgery to get to them. Air control systems could be anything from a 'sticky' valve to a faulty sensor.
P0325 = Knock sensor (KS) 1, bank 1 - circuit malfunction
P0335 = Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor - circuit malfunction
P0505 = Idle Air Control System
run the fault codes and look for cam/crank position sensors.
faulty or loose connections may cause this fault. If you have more than 1 key in the ignition then it has been known that the mass of swinging keys will switch off the ignition
(current recall on all GMC ignition switches for just this reason)
ok, i will try and help you as much as i can. first you should be getting 12 volts a pulse and a ground( negative ). if you're getting the 12 volts and the grounds but no pulse the the car has 2 sensors, one is the cam and the other is the crank. those sensors provide pulse to one for the injectors and the crank is for the coil packs. you can test for pulse by using a noid light or the normal test light. just connect the test light to 12 volts terminal and have someone crank over the engine. if you don't get a low flickering light then you neeed to change the sensor
Rather than take a stab in the dark replacing items - get the codes scanned and this should show what area the fault lies in. Normally if there is a fault with the MAF (mass air flow meter) it would normally show as a check engine light (MIL) - is this warning on?
So many things can affect these engines from O2 sensors, coil misfires, bad cable connections etc etc. - so best move get the car scanned.
Hope this helps (and saves money) good luck.
I am having the same problem. I have changed my cam shaft sensor and though it has improved a little but the problem is still there, i've been told it could be the 'air flow meter'. I am having somebody check it out tonight (plugged into some computer to ID the problem)
It sounds like your Mass Air Flow Sensor is faulty. These sensors will normal show fault when cruising at highway speeds causing the vehicle to almost stall or stall. Replace the Mass Air Flow Sensor with a known good one and test drive the vehicle. This will most likely repair your concern.
This is on the air/fuel sensor that is mounted in the exhaust manifold right behind the radiator. You will need to remove a heat sheild to see it but you should see the wires coming out of it. Also a spiecial socket is needed to get it out without damaging the wiring.
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