The basics we need to test for are;
1.spark at the plugs(it should jump a test plug with a 1/2 inch gap).
2.fuel at the carb,hold open the choke butterfly and twist throttle linkage,should be a good spray in both venturis if 2 or 4 barrel carb or just one in single barrel carb.
3.compression at all cylinders within 10% of each other and the factory spec,although a lower reading should still start.
Check to see if the carbon stem is still inside the center of the distributor cap,without this the spark will not get from coil to plugs.
Over the years I have seen these fail to start when the carb coke butterfly sticks closed,check this when you run test 2.it should be slightly sprung as you open it.I think this year was either a manual choke on a cable or had a heat coil on a rod to open it.
Hope this helps,or get back with findings and we can go further to solve it.
The clue may be in you $50 gas going from just cranking it to start! That is a LOT of GAS used.I would remove the aircleaner and check the carb for fuel only going down the throat when you pump the throttle,If it keeps running down in the carb you have a worn or damaged float or needle valve and seat,and it will never start until this is fixed.Pull out a sparkplug,if this is the case it will be really wet with gas.Let me know your findings from this check.
The only way the air filter can become covered in a film of oil is if it comes up from the breather that vents the engine fumes back into the air cleaner.There should be a PCV(positive crankcase ventilator) valve into either the valve cover or the inlet manifold,Check to see if this is functioning correctly.Try blowing through the air filter element,if blocked discard it,any restriction on air flow to the carb will richen the mix and flood engine,reduce power and force more air up as the engine sucks air from wherever it can **** it from.Replacing the PCV valve and checking that where the breather connects to the air filter housing,there should be a ledge where a gauze or sponge type pad fits to prevent the breather fumes going straight around the filter and oil vapour blocking.
So the carb is flooding as mentioned in second advice.That was a big important piece of detail you missed out.Someone had tampered with the carb prior to the fault would have really helped the diagnosis and repair advice!Glad that you have got to the bottom of it.Good that it didn't run as all that gas in the oil would make it thin.but it does evaporate quickly.Thanks for the update.
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The last time it did this was 3 weeks ago. Its got a automatic choke, Its got new spark plugs, wires, ignition module. That was the last thing I replaced and it started great. The first time it happened. I put in $50 in gas that was gone in days after attempting to start it. Now I have no clue what to do next.
I haven't had a chance to look at my car lately. I am expecting a friend to help me.
Another quick question,
Why is my air filter getting dirty so fast. Like within a couple months I have to replace it again. It looks like oil on it.
Problem solved, when the car first starting acting like this. All that gas went into the oil.
My car was running great before a friend decided to adjust it. Now after over $200 in repairs, and it runs rough because its flooding itself. Next thing I have to do now is get it towed so I can drain the oi/gas, another $30, new oil and filter. All my money ever says is "good-bye"!
I use to pump the gas 3 times to get it going, now I barely tap it and it floods.
Thats why I believe in this moto: if it isn't broken, why fix it!
On the dipstick, it shows about 2-3 times what should be in there. I know that the first step is to drain the oil/gas out and change the filter. Then adjust the carb so its not running too rich.
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