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Right now im attempting to change the rear pads. Ive tried to push the piston in with a c clamp but the piston does not fully retract allowing enough clearance for the new pads to fit over the rotor. I also tried turning the piston to retract it further in, im not sure if i should turn left or right .
Actually I found that the inner spring retainer was un seated causing the piston not to retract. And for your info you have to turn the piston to the right after compressing , to gain further clearance. This is true with nissan autos also. A large blunt chisel worked to turn it. Thanks anyhow...WF Actually I found that the inner spring retainer was un seated causing the piston not to retract. And for your info you have to turn the piston to the right after compressing , to gain further clearance. This is true with nissan autos also. A large blunt chisel worked to turn it. Thanks anyhow...WF
AnonymousMar 14, 2014
Front right pads slight contact with disc, not fully retracting.Front right pads slight contact with disc, not fully retracting.
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A big pair of channel locks will collaspe the caliper but it does take some muscle or you can release the brake line nut and releave the pressure but then you would have to bleed the brakes.
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You will have to use a c-clamp or brake piston compressing tool to get that piston back in, while you have the brake master cylinder fluid reservoir cap off.
Get a C Clamp large enough to fit from the back of the caliper to the piston. Put a piece metal across the the piston and tighten the c clamp onto the piston as far as it will go. This will push the piston in to put the pads on the caliper and to be able to fit the caliper back onto the brake rotor after installing the pads.
you will want to use a C-clamp for this. Take the c-clamp and an old brake pad, put the pad against the piston and the non-mobile end of the c-clamp on the back of the caliper. Turn the moving portion of the C-clamp in until it pushes the pad into the piston, and pushes the piston completely into the caliper. I hope this helps.
On those brake calipers you need to turn the piston as you push the piston in. Of course, there is a tool for doing this. Using a C-clamp or a caliper piston tool, push the piston in, then with the other brake tool, turn the piston clockwise a turn or two, and then repeat with the C-clamp. Spraying the piston and seal with WD-40 will help in turning the piston to collapse it back into the caliper.
youll have to clamp the brake hose,undo the bleed screw,and push the piston[s] back in,then shut off bleed screw,undo clamp on hose,and try assembly again.bracket first,then pads into bracket,then slide caliper over pads,and then put bolts holding caliper back in ,with a bit of grease on the slides.
remove the caliper, by removing the two holding bolts, then use a old brake pad against the pistons and a c clamp and push piston all the way in, next is to clean and lube pad mounting surface and the caliper slide pin, then install new pads on bracket then caliper and tighten caliper bolts, heres a diagram to help you,
Make sure that the brake pedal has about 3/4" of free play before it actuates the master cylinder. Remove the front wheels and try to push the pads back into the caliper cylinders a little. This normally takes some effort. When pushed back, try to slide the caliper casting in and out as it normally floats to equalize the braking effort on both sides of the rotor. The pads depend on some lateral movement of the rotor turning to back off the pads as there are no springs to push them back. Make sure the pads are not worn to the extent that the little wear-warning tabs are touching the rotor. Hope this helps!
The problem lays with the Caliper itself and/or the brake hose connected to the Caliper.
However if you replaced the pads, did you also replace the Rotors or have them Turned? The old pads wear the rotor. New pads on old rotors that have not been replaced or turned may end with rubbing or stuck brakes.
A simple way to test whether it's one and/or the other:
1. Remove the Caliper from the rotor, remove the pads. Keep for now the caliper attached to the brake hose.
2. Very slowly push on the brake, exposing more of the piston out of the bore. Not all the way. Usually until the rubber dust seal/boot is fully extended.
3. Check the seal/boot for cracks and tears, and if clean or not. Bad seals may prevent the piston from re-seating.
4. Using a c-clamp and pushing straight in: Try repushing the Caliper Piston back into the Caliper Bore (the cup back into the hole). It should go back in realitively easy.
5. If it doesn't go back in easy: Again slowly pump the brake and re-push the pistons back out to full extended seal/boot (but not the piston out of the bore).
6. Detached the brake hose from the caliper.
7. Again using a c-clamp and pushing straight in: Try again to repush the caliper piston back into the bore without the hose attached. If it goes back-in relatively easy - the caliper is okay...it is the brake hose.
8. If the caliper piston does not go back in easily - Replace the caliper.
9. When Installing the new (reman) caliper, remember to bleed the brakes.
TRY EITHER OR #10 OR #11 BELOW:
After the new Caliper is reattached to hose and has been bled:
10. Again push on the brake petal to fully extend the caliper piston fully (rubber seal/boot fully extended) Again do not push the piston out of the bore! Try pushing the piston back into the bore. If it does not re-seat relatively easy: Replace the brake hose.
11. Another method: After replacing the new caliper back on the rotor: Assumng the entire front end (2WD front wheel drive) or entire vehicle (2WD rear wheel drive) or (4WD all the time) is jacked up off the ground
a. Put the lug nuts back on the rotor.
b. Have helper Start the vehicle and place in Drive. Don't step on gas!
c. Have then let off the brake and then engage the brake.
d. When they let off the brake watch to see if the Rotor is turning or not, if rubbing or not. Or if still sticking.
e. With a new caliper, turned or new rotors, and still a problem? It is the brake hose!
12. Replace the brake hose and try again.
Another method but more expensive:
OR Replace the calipers, brake hoses; bleed and test!
If this helped or not; or if you need additional help or have addtional questions let me know on fixya.com!
Lift the rear disc brake caliper off the rear disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B582).
CAUTION: Do not allow grease, oil, brake fluid or other contaminants to contact the brake pads. Remove the brake pads by pushing inward and rotating the pad up.
NOTE: Use a block of wood or used pad to protect the piston and boots. Retract the caliper piston (2196) into the rear disc brake caliper.
Chalk the front wheels, car is on jackstands i hope, release the handbrake, use the old pad with a c- clamp to compress the pistion on the caliper, install new pads. may have to take the cap off the master cylinder, if none of this works, open the bleeder valve, and compress the piston, rebleed the caliper.
CAUTION: Do not allow grease, oil, brake fluid or other contaminants to contact the brake pads. 
Actually I found that the inner spring retainer was un seated causing the piston not to retract. And for your info you have to turn the piston to the right after compressing , to gain further clearance. This is true with nissan autos also. A large blunt chisel worked to turn it. Thanks anyhow...WF
Front right pads slight contact with disc, not fully retracting.
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