I recently had the sway bar, inner and outer tie rod ends, camber kits installed, and now the power steering does not work. any suggestions?

Have the inner and outer tie rod ends checked as well - inner joints can wear out causing loose feeling steering.

Procedure on replacing the inner tie rod ends:


1) Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2) Remove the front wheel/tire assembly.

3) Clean the steering rod between the steering boot and outer tie rod end lock nut with a suitable penetrating lubricant and a clean cloth or shop towel.

4) Loosen the outer tie rod end locking nut 1/8 turn.

5) Loosen the steering boot clamp(s), and slide the small clamp off the boot.

6) Carefully loosen the boot and slide outward off the steering rack and onto the shaft to expose the inner steering rod mounting fastener.

7) If necessary, position the inner steering rack shaft in or out to allow for additional access.

8) Relieve the steering rod nut locking tab from the inner steering rack shaft, then loosen the steering rod ball socket nut 1 turn.

9) Matchmark the tie rod end to the threaded shaft.

10) Remove the cotter key and castle nut from the outer tie rod end threaded spindle, and using a tie rod end removal tool, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

11) Hold the tie rod with a wrench, and remove the outer tie rod end from the threaded rod, counting the number of complete turns it takes to remove the tie rod end from the shaft. Write the number of turns on a piece of note paper.

12) Remove the tie rod end lock nut from the threaded steering shaft.

13) Slide the steering rack boot off the shaft.

14) Remove the inner steering rod ball socket nut from the inner steering rack shaft.

To install:

1) Inspect the tie rod end for looseness, and the steering rack boot and tie rod end boot for cracks deterioration or damage and replace as necessary.

2) Clean steering rack shaft and apply a light coating of Genuine Honda Power steering fluid as necessary.

3) Apply a medium strength locking agent to the threads where the inner steering rod ball socket mounts. Use a new locking washer and a new stop washer, and install the inner tie rod onto the steering rack shaft.

4) Tighten the inner tie rod end fastener by 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm)

5) Peen the lock washer over the nut or onto the flat surface of the steering rack shaft.

6) Apply silicone grease to the outer circumference of the inner tie rod end ball socket, and onto the groove just outside of the socket.

7) Apply silicone grease to the inside of the small end of the steering rack boot, and slide the boot over the steering shaft and onto the rack and install the boot clamps. If the boot has air hose fittings make sure they are installed as removed.

8) Apply a light film of an anti-seize compound onto the threaded tie rod end, and install the tie rod end lock nut.

9) Install the tie rod end onto the tie rod, turning it in exactly the number of turns it took to remove it.

10) Install the tie rod end following the tie rod end installation procedure.

11) The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

12) Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

check sway bar bushings inner tyrod ends

front shocks? Make sure battery is secured .

The first step in replacing the inner tie rod is to remove the tie rod end. It's basically a three step process, where you start by loosening the jam nut that's used to set the alignment (toe-in or toe-out). That jam nut determines how far up the inner tie rod the tie rod end is fixed. The tie rod end is hollow and threaded, so it can be screwed on or off the inner tie rod. Any procedure for removing a tie rod will start by telling you to count the turns you unscrew the tie rod end, something that I didn't do, and I'll save the explanation for the end:-) After you loosen the jam nut, you remove the cotter pin from the post on the outer tie rod ball joint, and unscrew the nut that holds the ball joint into the tapered fitting on the steering knuckle (video to right). After you pop the outer tie end free of the steering knuckle, you can unscrew the tie rod end. from the inner tie rod, but you need to grip it with something. Inner tie rods normally have some flat surfaces or a splined surface for grabbing with pliers. In this case, I needed two pairs of visegrips and a clamp to hold the visegrips on the inner tie rod from moving in order to get the outer tie rod end broken free and turning easy. That video is below. I happen to own the shop manuals for my Dodge Omni, so I was able to study the procedure for replacing the inner tie rod in detail. I didn't follow it for a couple reason. First, they show my type of power steering rack (Saginaw vs TRW) needs to be removed from the car to change the inner tie rod. That's a lot of extra work, not to mention the fact I buried one of the crossmember bolts in my unibody and flooring repair! So I went with an inner tie rod removal kit from Harbor Freight, manufactured by U.S. General (in Taiwan). The tool is very simple, basically a large steel tub with a snap in opening for a large crows foot insert on one end and a 1/2" socket drive on the other end. The kit is shown in the photo to the lower left (which I need to replace), and a video of the procedure is shown below. The kit wasn't quite right for my car, I had to use an oversized crows foot and the ball joint housing on the inner tie rod was too long, so the flats on the housing were barely held with the crows foot positioned by hand at the very end of the tool. But I got it out.

does it kinda sound like two peices of metal striking each other? most likely the outer tie rod end. the inner tie rod end wouldnt make a sound anything like that, it would snap and you wouldnt be able to steer the car very well.....regardless, this is easy to check. remove the wheel. the object directly behind your brakes is the wheel hub, directly behind the wheel hub is the steering knuckle. connected to the steering knuckle you should find the strut up top, a control arm on the bottom, the sway bar attaches towards the front of the car, the outer tie rod end connects to the hub on the side closest to the rear of the car. connected to the outer tie rod end is the tie rod, which is then connected to your power steering rack and pinion via the inner tie rod ends. you want to locate the outer tie rod end and examine it visually. is the rubber cracked, torn, or missing? if so, replace the outer tie rod end. you will need a 2 jaw puller to remove the old tie rod end, but removal and installation is EASY (i taught my wife how to do it in 5 minutes and she did it successfully in less than 10). depending on how far the jam nut is moved when replacing the tie rod, you may need an alignment after replacing it. if the rubber on the tie rod end looks fine, the noise is probably coming from the strut. when the struts are worn out, the strain of the vehicle bouncing is put on the coil over springs. after a while, the spring can become worn out as well.....this would create a "clunking" sound when going over bumps.....and, if the spring wears out too much, you MIGHT be able to hear a metalic popping sound when the struts reach the damper if the spring hasnt expanded that far yet (this is extremely unlikely tho, more likely than not, the spring would crack/break LONG before you hear this noise and the car would be close to undriveable......). regardless, out tie rod ends are roughly 12-15 bucks each and extremely easy to install. you might be able to find a parts store willing to loan you a 2 jaw puller, but if not they generally run 30-35 dollars....DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A REPAIR MANUAL THE LISTS THE CORRECT TORQUE SETTING FOR THE TIE ROD ENDS. if the bolt isnt torqued propperly, a) your alignment will be off and b) you run the risk of snapping the new tie rod end.

Indirectly. The steering arm comes off the power steering box and joins a link on the main tierod bar. At the ends of the bar are tierod ends. There are inner and outer ends on this part. The entire rod keeps the 2 front wheels connected

You are on the right track. You may have overtightened the tie rods or the sway bar links. Whenever you do this much front-end work, you should always get the front-end re-aligned. The front-end mechanic will probably find and fix this as a normal part of the re-alignment at no extra cost.

you can buy remanufactured at parts store or buy used from car-part.com. page with * is lowest cost.

It's a pretty big job for a novice.

here's 96 taurus steps with 3.8l engine. don't have 94. should be similar

Removal
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Tool Number Description T94T-6000-AH Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T57L-500-B Bench Mounted Holding Fixture

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
   

1. Position steering wheel one-half turn to right and lock wheel.
   

1. Position steering column boot out of the way. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and separate.
   

1. Disconnect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose from clean air tube. Loosen two hose clamps retaining clean air tube and position out of the way.
   

1. Disconnect power steering auxiliary actuator and power steering pressure switch.
   

1. Remove two heat shield pushpin retainers from power steering hose bracket and remove heat shield.
   

1. Remove one retaining bolt from left turn pressure hose bracket.
   

1. Position drain pan under steering gear.
   

1. Remove power steering pressure and return hoses from fittings on power steering rack. Position both hoses out of the way. Disconnect rear HO2S connector at steering rack and position out of the way.
   

1. Partially raise vehicle.
   

1. Remove front wheel and tire assemblies.
   

1. Remove LH upper stabilizer bar link retaining nut and position link out of the way.
   

1. Loosen LH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
   

1. Loosen RH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
   

1. Raise vehicle.
   

1. Remove drain pan.
   

1. Remove two steering gear retaining nuts at front subframe.
   

1. Install Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T94T-6000-AH on flex tube.
   

1. Remove bolts, nuts, and gasket from where flex tube and converter Y-pipe connect. Separate tube from pipe.
   

1. Position Rotunda Power Train Lift 014-00765 or equivalent with wood blocks approximately 1016 mm (40 inches) in length (secured to lift) under subframe and raise.
   

1. Remove two rear subframe retaining bolts and lower subframe approximately 102 mm (4 inches).
   

1. Rotate power steering rack to clear bolts from subframe and remove assembly through LH wheel well.
   

1. Remove two bolts retaining power steering hose bracket to short rack and remove bracket.
   

1. Mount steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
   

1. Remove four clamps retaining bellows to steering gear and tie-rods. Remove bellows and power steering gear rack tube.
   

1. Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while loosening inner tie-rods. Remove tie-rods from steering rack. Remove steering rack from bench-mounted holding fixture.
   

Installation

1. Mount new steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
   

1. Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while tightening inner tie-rods. Tighten to 90-110 Nm (66-81 lb-ft).
   

1. Apply Steering Gear Grease C3AZ-19518-A meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C119-A to groove in connecting rods where tie-rod bellows clamp to front wheel spindle tie-rod and uniformly apply to inner diameter of bellows. Install bellows and gear rack tube onto short rack.
   

1. Install new inner and outer bellows clamps.
   

1. Remove steering gear from Bench Mounted Holding Fixture and place on bench.
   

1. Install power steering hose bracket and retaining bolts at top of steering gear. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
   

1. Install steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing and install short rack through LH wheel well.
   

1. Position steering rack and retaining bolts through subframe. Raise powertrain lift until rear subframe contacts body and install retaining bolts. Tighten to 135-195 Nm (100-144 lb-ft). Lower and remove powertrain lift from vehicle.
   

1. Install power steering short rack-to-subframe nuts. Tighten to 97-132 Nm (72-97 lb-ft).
   

1. Install new gasket, bolts and nuts at converter Y-pipe and flex tube. Tighten to 34-46 Nm (26-34 lb-ft).
   

1. Remove flex tube holder.
   

1. Partially lower vehicle.
   

1. Install LH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
   

1. Install LH stabilizer bar link and retaining nut. Tighten to 76.5-103.5 Nm (57-76 lb-ft).
   

1. Install RH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
   

1. Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten to 115-142 Nm (85-105 lb-ft).
   

1. Lower vehicle.
   

1. Remove old Teflon® O-rings from pressure and return hoses. Install new Teflon® O-rings on pressure and return hoses.
   

1. Install power steering pressure hose and return hose to fittings on power steering short rack. Tighten to 33-41 Nm (24-30 lb-ft).
   

1. Install one retaining bolt to left-turn pressure hose bracket. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
   

1. Connect rear HO2S connectors, power steering auxiliary actuator, and power steering pressure switch electrical connectors.
   

1. Position heat shield at power steering hose bracket and install pushpin retainers.
   

1. Install clean air tube, connect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose, and tighten hose clamps. Tighten to 2-3 Nm (18-27 lb-in).
   

1. Install steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and install pinch bolt. Tighten to 41-51 Nm (30-38 lb-ft). Position steering column boot over steering rack.
   

1. Fill and purge system.
   

1. Check operation.
   

1. Adjust only toe for alignment. Refer to Section 04-00 .
   

you don't need to remove the whole rack but do need a special tool called inner tie rod tool. can be bought or borrowed form most auto parts stores. first remove wheel. next loosen the jam nut on inner tie rod at the end of outer tie rod. remove cotter pin and nut on outer. use seperator or pickle fork to seperate outer from knuckle. then remove the clamps on boot and remove. then take tie rod tool and find the right size end and turn with 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar. it will turn hard at first cause of it being staked on to the threads. when it is off install new part with loc-tite on threads and tighten. when tight crimp inner flanges with either plier or hammer and punch to the rack. install in reverse order. remember to measure distance from clamp on outer side of boot to jam nut so you can get the alignment close until you get to shop for alignment.