My vehicle runs well on high speeds. But, intermittently, whenever I slow down to a stop the engine stalls. This problem began about 3 years ago, occurred occasionally but it is occurring on a more frequent basis now. My engine light is on. My mechanic changed the crankshaft sensor. Vehicle ran fine for few days. But problem is still recurring.

Radiator cooling fans not working? The ECM is protecting the engine by shutting it down.

accord stalling on every stop. (1/2) - EricTheCarGuy ...

www.ericthecarguy.com/.../8.../46884-accord-stalling-on-every-stop

The car runs good but stalls every time i come to a stop. ... a stop then it diesagain.only on the stops does the idle drop very low to the point of stalling.what ... only when I start slowing down and come to a complete stop RPM's go down and the cardies. ... The popular Honda Civic and Accord vehicles share many powertrain ...

1998 Honda Accord loses rpm/ stalls coming to a stop ...

honda-tech.com/honda-accord.../1998-honda-accord-loses-rpm-stalls-co...

Jan 10, 2013 - I just bought a 1998 4 cyl 2.3 L Honda Accord two days ago. ... 1998Honda Accord loses rpm/ stalls coming to a stop. .... Is clockwise high idle or low idle? all in all i probable rotated counterclockwide 1.5 or 2 turns. maybe this ...

1999 Accord, 130k+, stalls when slowing to a stop - Honda Accord ...

www.hondaaccordforum.com > ... > General > General Tech Help

Mar 10, 2010 - My fiancee's '99 Accord EX Coupe 4-cylinder automatic, with 130,000+ miles, has recently (in .... No low RPM & feeling like it's GOING TO stall.

99 Honda Accord - Strange Stalling Issues! HELP!

https://www.2carpros.com/.../1999-honda-accord-99-strange-stalling-issu...

My 1999 Honda Accord is having sporadic stalling problems. I've noticed a pattern. Itstalls while going slow speeds and stop and go traffic, etc. The engine just ...

Stalling or Low Engine Idle Speed Due to Dirty ... - Repair

There should be a purple wire with white tracer from ignition module to computer. That wire carries rpm signal to computer, w/o that signal, the computer won't ground the fuel injectors. With the engine cranking, you look for a dc pulse on that wire. If you have a digital multimeter that has a tach--duty cycle or dwell setting, it should react to a dc pulse.
My info on your model year, isn't that great.

Have you had it to a shop that has a professional type scan tool that can view engine sensor data parameters ? Do you know what those are ? Idle air control counts , mass air flow sensor data , MAP sensor , TPS - throttle position sensor , crankshaft position sensors , Cam sensors , engine coolant temp , intake air temp etc......

Hi Kathleen, I'm glad to help!

Kathleen, I can tell you this because I work at a dealer myself and through the years when a problem comes in like yours and we can't find anything wrong its because whatever is causing the issue is not setting a code. There is only a few things that can cause a problem like yours and not set a code. (1) Fuel pumps can cause intermittent problem but will never set a code. After running for a while they will simply stop working but then after sitting a while will cool down and work fine again. (2) Exhaust issues. After the exhaust system has a lot of years and miles on it, the debris inside it can restrict the air flow and in some cases cause the vehicle to die and run poorly after a restart, but after sitting awhile the debris falls back down and the vehicle runs fine again until it happens again. NOTE: I'm not saying that either of these is your problem BUT, you have to start somewhere. Your only other option would be to let it die until the check engine light come on and then you'll know for sure it has set a code. After it sets a code then the dealer should be able to find your problem. The problem is that if its one of the issues I mentioned it will never set a code. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Kathleen.

Possibly a transmission issue. The transmission has a "lockup" mode, where a clutch connects the engine directly to the transmission at cruising speeds. It is then supposed to unlock at lower speeds and for stopping. If it doesn't unlock, the car will stall at a stop. Try putting it into neutral (carefullly, so you don't go into reverse) as you slow down, if it doesn't stall out, it is most likely the transmission lockup mechanism.

If it stalls in neutral it is an engine issue. Bad idle control, bad ignition (it's easier to fire at high speed), bad fuel injector, bad air flow/pressure sensor... and more possibilities.

Check your 91 Accord's ignition coil. The coil goes bad at apprx. 150k miles and cause the car to run rough, hard to start(long cranking time) in the morning, stall after the vehicle has warmed up, cut out while driving and backfire horribly when accelerating from a standstill.

Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls and low idle rough idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

It just might be that the choke is stuck open.

Don't know if this helps. Had squeel in belt area. Occasionally engine would stop when squeel got loud and sometimes engine would try to quit while going at various speeds. Found tensioner pulley was bad and changed it. Still squeeled and engine would stop when squeel got loud. This time while sitting in yard. Further checking found binding in power steering pump. Will be putting on new one tomorrow. Hope it works. Will update.