The ignition key does not automatically spring back to the rest position whenever the van is started.I have to manually return the key to the neutral position. I replaced the ignition cylinder, stater and relay but the problem continues. Suggestions?

a spring in the ignition switch
replace the switch not the barrel

Just replace the switch. There is a spring in it to return it to the run position. It is either broken or so dirty/worn out, that it won't return.

First turn of the key energize the car electrical circuits for some circuits radio ets. 2nd turn of the key energize the the starting cycle, when you turn the key to the third spring loaded start mode it completes the circuit to the starter solenoid which engages the starter and start the car, the spring in ignition return the key to ignition on.
Maybe you have a malfunction in the ignition on position. Dont have a large bunch of keys hanging in your ignition, it sings back and forth when the car is in the start mode and cause havoc to your ignition switch.

Sounds like the link between the lock cylinder and the switch is broke.

Test/Service/Replace

The circuit on newer cars with automatic transmissions has a neutral safety, or neutral start switch installed between the ignition switch and the starter. The ignition switch cannot operate the starter motor unless the transmission is in park or neutral.
Late model vehicles with manual transmissions have a starter/clutch interlock switch that requires the clutch to be depressed to the floor.
Neutral Safety Switch
Normal operations of a neutral safety switch provides a quick check for the adjustment of the gear selector linkage.

• To do this, move the selector slowly until it clicks into the PARK position.
• Turn the ignition key to the START position.
• If the starter operates, the PARK position is correct.
• After checking the PARK position, move the lever slowly toward the NEUTRAL position until the lever drops at the end of the NEUTRAL stop in the selector gate.
• If the starter also operates at this point, the gearshift linkage is properly adjusted.
• This quick test also tests the adjustment of the neutral safety switch.
• If the engine does not start in either or both of these positions, the neutral safety switch or the gear selector linkage needs adjustment or repair.

CAUTION
Since you must work under the vehicle to adjust most shift linkages make sure you properly raise and support the vehicle before working under it. Also, wear safety glasses or goggles while working under the vehicle.
A voltmeter can be used to check the switch for voltage when the ignition key is turned to the START position with the shift lever in PARK or NEUTRAL. If there is no voltage, the switch should be adjusted or replaced.

Hello, I noticed this post is 6 hours old. If you remember turning the Ignition switch, there is a replaceable core for the key, and the switch housing is what the core goes into. If you did not replace the switch housing you probably have a broken spring in the Ignition housing.

On most Ignition switches you have to set the switch to Run or ACC positions, press a pin release at the bottom of the Ignition housing, and then slide out the core with your key. At any other position, the core should not slide in; if it does it will be out of alignment.

There is also an adjustment on the Ignition switch outer housing. This adjustment lengthens or shortens a connecting rod or cable inside the steering column so that the Interlocks will line up with the switches. The switch below the dash is called a "neutral start" switch which cuts power to the Starter circuit unless the gearshift is in Park or Neutral and the foot is on the brake. All in all this arrangement is an Interlock system.

It sounds like the Ignition switch is out of sequence or has a busted spring. You should be able to take the switch off and take it back to the store and see why the switch does not spring back. Also save a trip and look under the dash at the foot pedal lever and look for a broken switch there too.

The noises you heard were in the Powerbox. Your Ignition switch is not shutting off and the Relays are remaining on and live. You should have a power relay in the Powerbox, but the limp return on the Ignition switch is what is keeping the power on.

I hope my solution will be very helpful in fixing this. Just take the keys, the ignition switch, and get one that has a working spring in it.

Some can be repaired the first thing is to try a little wd40 in the key hole and work key in ignition, the spring back action is done by the switch not the ignition cylinder locjk, but if the lock binds up it will cause it not to return, so start with the lube, after a few days if it still doesnt return then remove covers and replace the switch on the back of key switch. hope this helps, most of the time the lube works.

On this car the starting switch is located on the lower steering column and is connected with a rod to the key tumbler assembly. This rod is returned with a spring that is part of the switch and may have a boost spring higher up. A manual would help as I cannot put it here.....

It sound to me like the ignition switch has gone out. if you cant afford a new one, try a pick a part auto salvage yard. might just make your day

On the back of the ignition switch is a plastic casing which retains a spring to return your key to the correct position once the car has started. The plastci casing wears and the spring does not work sufficiently. You need to replace the ignition switch casing/back end.