My discovery is stuck in the park position; I cannot get it into drive or reverse. My brake lights are not illuminating either
You can energise the interlock solenoid, by you give a positive (+12V) lead to the RED and a negative (ground) to the black line at the transmission selector's connector.
If it works you should check the positive signal at the red.
It should be there if the ignition is on, brake pedal depressed, and the transfer box is in some gear, and the fuse 1 isn't blown.
At the black cable should be a ground signal if the selector in 'P' position.
If you give me an e-mail address I'll send the wiring.
The ABS problem, you have better to check followings.
- All the wheels bearings' play.
- are the ABS sensors at the deepst position? Knock some to that head (not strong) and they shouldn't move deeper.
-land rover repair
Have your brake system checked. Many cars need the brake to be pushed down to release the park lever.
It could also be that the shift lever has moved out of sync.
There is a release on the brake pedal, so that you have to have your foot on the brake in order to put it in drive. CHeck this release.
If the brake lights are not working the car won't shift out of park. Start there you will probably find either shorted wiring at the trailer connector, damaged rear lamp sockets, damaged wiring in the rear, or a failed stop lamp switch.The fuse may be blown as a result of these things.
Hope that helps.......
"General cause, often is a failure in the gearshift selector switch
solenoid that keeps the
shifter locked in park until the ignition is turned on and the brake
pedal is depressed.
The brake light circuit energizes the solenoid when the selector is in
park and the brake lights are energized. A fault in the brake light
circuit that blows the fuse that protects the circuit will result in a
failure to energize the solenoid. The fuse is fuse number 1, 15 Amps,
blue-colored. It is found in the fascia fuse panel at the bottom of the
primary fuse block.
Thanks
Another reason for a failure to energize the solenoid is a faulty brake light switch.
Finally, the solenoid itself may be faulty.
What to do:
1. Check brake lights. Are the brake lights working? If so, the problem
is probably the solenoid or intervening wiring. Go to (4.) below.
2. If the lights don't work, check the fuse (fuse #1). If the fuse is
blown, it's probably a short in the brake light circuit.
Eliminate the likely source of the fault, the tail light assemblies, replace the fuse and try again. Here's how:
I recommend opening the rear light access panels, as when replacing a
bulb, and unplugging the wiring harnesses connected to the tail light
assemblies. Then replace the fuse, turn the ignition to "run" (position
II) step on the brake and try to move the shifter. There should be a
spare fuse and a fuse puller tool in the fascia fuse block area. If
this works, remember, no tail lights! Have the truck towed, or
carefully drive home or to a shop.
3. If the fuse isn't blown, it may be the brake light switch. This
circuit may be shorted in order to shift out of park. To do so, remove
the kick panel above the brake pedal, and look up the pedal are. The
bottommost switch, the one with a hose connected, is the cruise control
switch: leave it alone. Above that is the brake light switch. Carefully
unplug the four pin flat connector. The switch may come out. On the
wire side of the connector there are two wires that are mostly green in
color. Prepare to short these wires' connector pins together with a
paper clip or something. Set the parking brake, ignition on "run,"
short the pins and hear a "click;" have an assistant move the shifter
out of park (or figure out how to do it yourself!).
4. If all else fails, one may directly energize the solenoid. I did
this. It requires removing the center console. Once removed, reconnect
the parking brake linkage(!) and locate the connector at the rear of
the selector assembly. It is a six (6) contact connector. Disconnect
and locate pins 2 and 5, which, if you look into the connector end held
horizontally, are the two pins in the center vertical column. Note also
that the wires connected to these pins are red and black, respectively.
Attach clip leads to the two pins and apply 12 Volts across the leads;
polarity shouldn't matter, but I followed the wiring diagram with +12V
on pin2 and ground on pin 5. Hear a click, and move the shifter out of
park. If there's no click, the solenoid is at fault.
5. Faulty solenoid. I am told that if the shifter assembly is further
disassembled, that you can get to the solenoid and manually disengage
it; however, I haven't investigated this myself."
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