I have replaced the 2 front Springs and the 2 front struts, the car also had a front end elinment and I have a rattle on the driver side front. This happens when I go over a bump

Possible sway bar bushings & a good one that is often overlooked, try rotating the tires WITH THE HUBCAPS. good luck

When you changed out the struts, did you also replace the Strut Bearing Mounts that mount the struts to the strut towers on the car? These things are notorious for making the rattling sound.

You need some front end work. Have checked ,the ball joints, tierod ends, wheel bearings, drag link, pitman and idler arms, and the swaybar links. your car should not pull both ways. have it checked and if you want to do this yourself let me know and I will guide you thru it.
Randy

This sounds like a bad strut, one or both on the front has gone bad. Here is a picture of just the strut with out the spring. The price ranges from $65.00 to $220.00 depends on what you can afford.

1) Take car to non dealer shops willing to give FREE opinion

2) Not likely you have a shock in Driver Front wheel, more likely a strut. Not likely strut needs to be replaced, but strut has a STRUT MOUNT (3 bolts of which can be seen when opening your hood) below this it is connected to STRUT BEARING which below it connects to UPPER SEAT OF STRUT or SPRING INSULATOR, that if loose will rattle. Usually, shops will not tighten, because to tighten is same labor as replace the parts. (Since you already dropped $1000 on ToyotaDealer, ask them to tighten FOR FREE since rattle is still there.)

3) There is a part called a "link," connects strut to stablizer bar, that if bushings are bad will rattle.
4) If stabilizer bar bushing(s) bad, will rattle early on but eventually clunking
5) Bad ball joint or tie rod can rattle as well

Never permit any shop to do expensive work on your car w/o first getting a second opinion somewhere else first. Do not tell second shop that you are there for a second opinion.

Shaking steering wheel at highway speed, no braking
1) Bad tire in front, bad tires in front, verify inflation of tires
2) Wheel alignment may be out
3) Front suspension parts (mentioned several above)

Highway speed to suddenly braking shakes steering wheel
1) Front brake rotors need to be inspected for warping
2) Test calipers on empty road at 40 mph, going straight on very LEVEL ROAD, hit brake pedal SOMEWHAT hard while barely touching steering wheel. If car jerks to one side, instead of braking straight on, you may have a caliper, ABS, or brake fluid pressure regulator off.
3) If brake rotors are warped, may as well replace front brake pads at same moment. Use ceramic.
4) When you drive on VERY LEVEL road on highway, steering wheel must be centered, let go lightly of steering wheel. Did car stay in middle of lane? No? Get a 4-wheel alignment.

check your break pads, and calipa. check your wheel balancing and alignment

It is probably the strut bearing. this is a metal bearing that the strut sticks through at the strut tower.

According to the replacement parts guide, they are struts and I checked for all wheel drive and 2 wheel drive and all are showing struts.

My wife's 20002 escape had a similiar issue. Whenever the front end on the driver side was compressed due to turns or bumps a clunking noise was heard. Then it happened to the other side later. The stabilizer rods on both sides had come loose. When you look at them you can't tell but, if you pull on them when someone bounces the front end up and down you can feel the ball bouncing in and out of the joints. The joints are made of plastic and wear out easily but are not too difficult to replace and are inexpensive.

450-$60 per upper strut mount at autozone, and probably 1hr. to 1-1/2 hrs.per side to replace it. Depending on your labor rate in your area. Would recommend alignment after too. Usually if your going to do one, do the other too, because it won't be too far behind the first one to clunk, and then you end up paying for another alignment too. Here's a site that may help, if not exactly what your getting done, pick closest for rough estimate, just add, or subtract parts/labor your not, or are getting done. ( repairpal.com )