3.0L and 3.5L Engines
3.0L ENGINE INSTALLATION
- Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the battery and battery tray, if necessary for additional working clearance.
- Drain the cooling system.
- Disconnect the upper radiator hose at the radiator.
- Remove the fan shroud from the radiator.
- Remove the cooling fan and clutch assembly.
- Loosen the necessary components and remove the drive belts from the air conditioning compressor, the power steering pump and the water pump/alternator.
- Remove the fan pulley from the water pump.
- Remove the power steering pump from the engine. Hang it out of the way by using string or stiff wire. Do not disconnect any lines or hoses; just move the whole pump with the lines attached.
- Remove the power steering pump bracket and mount.
The bolts are of different lengths. Label or diagram each bolt and its location; correct reassembly is required.
- Remove the tension pulley bracket (idler pulley) located just behind the power steering pump bracket.
- Remove the air conditioning compressor. Hang it out of the way without kinking or twisting the lines.
Do not disconnect any lines from the compressor. Do not allow the compressor to hang by the lines; support it securely.
- Remove the compressor bracket.
- Remove the cooling fan bracket assembly or the accessory mount.
- Remove the upper timing belt covers and their gaskets; keep the gaskets with the covers. Removal of the crankshaft position sensor connector will be necessary on the 3.5L engines.
Bolts are of three different lengths; label or diagram their location during removal.
- Remove the crankshaft pulley. Use only the specified special tools (MD998754 & MB990767-01), or a damaged pulley damper could result.
- Remove the lower timing belt cover.
- Use a wrench on the crankshaft bolt to turn the engine clockwise until all the timing marks align. This positions the engine at TDC/compression for No. 1 piston. Once positioned, the engine must not be moved out of place.
- Install the special counter-holding tools or equivalent and remove the crankshaft pulley. The large center bolt will be tight; do not turn the motor during removal.
- Remove the front flange from the crankshaft sprocket.
- Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt and turn the timing belt tensioner counterclockwise along the elongated hole; this will relax the belt tension.
NOTE: If vehicle is equipped with automatic type timing belt tensioner, remove the assembly, compress the pushrod and insert a small pin to reset the tensioner.
- If the timing belt is to be reused, mark the direction of rotation on the belt with chalk or crayon. The belt must be reinstalled in its original position.
- Carefully slide the belt off the sprockets. Place the belt in a clean, dry, protected location away from the work area. if the tensioner is to be removed, disconnect the spring and remove the retaining bolt.
- Inspect the timing belt in detail for any flaw or wear. If the belt is not virtually perfect, replace it. A case can be made for replacing the belt every time it is removed, particularly on high-mileage engines. Some of the conditions to look for are:
- Hardened back surface; non-elastic and glossy; hard to mark with a fingernail.
- Cracking on back of belt, bottom of teeth or side of belt.
- Missing teeth or teeth lifting from belt.
- Side of belt worn or fuzzy. Normal belt should have clean sides as if cut with a sharp knife.
- Wear on teeth as shown by distinct color change or worn rubber.
- Separation of inner coating from backing.
- Any uneven wear patterns on the teeth of the belt. Wear pattern should be even across each tooth and not differ from one tooth to another.
- Check the sprockets and tensioner for wear. The sprocket teeth should be well defined, not rounded and the valleys between the teeth should be clean. The tensioners should spin freely with no binding or unusual noise. Replace the tensioner if there is any sign of grease leaking from the seal. Clean everything with a clean, dry cloth.
Do not spray or immerse the sprockets or tensioners in cleaning solvent. The sprocket may absorb the solvent and transfer it to the belt. The tensioners are internally lubricated and the solvent will dilute or dissolve the lubricant.
Fig. 25: Timing belt and cover installation and removal components - 3.0L Engines
Fig. 26: Correct bolt location by length - 3.0L Engii have a 1990 mitsubishi montero sport. it will - 86663177.gifrc="/uploads/images/86663177.gif" alt="86663177.gif" class="h_mi" />
Fig. 27: Timing belt and sprocket layout - 3.0L Engines
Fig. 28: Special tools needed for timing i have a 1990 mitsubishi montero sport. it will - 86663179.gif - 3.0L Engines
- If the tensioner was removed, it must be reinstalled. After bolting it loosely in place, connect the spring onto the pin. Make certain the spring faces in the correct direction on the tensioner. Turn the tensioner to the extreme counterclockwise position on the elongated hole and tighten the bolt just enough to hold the tensioner in this position.
- Double check the alignment of the timing marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets.
- Observing the direction of rotation marks made earlier, install the belt onto the crankshaft sprocket and then onto the left bank camshaft sprocket. Maintain tension on the belt between the sprockets.
- Continue installing the belt onto the water pump, the right bank cam sprocket and the tensioner.
- With your fingers, apply gentle counterclockwise force to the left camshaft sprocket. When the belt is taut on the tension side, the timing marks should align perfectly.
- Install the flange on the crankshaft sprocket.
- Loosen the bolt holding the tensioner one or two turns and allow the spring tension to draw the tensioner against the belt.
- Using special tool MB 998716-01 or equivalent adapter, turn the crankshaft two complete revolutions clockwise. Turn the crank smoothly and re-align the timing marks at the end of the second revolution. This allows the tensioner to compensate for the normal amount of slack in the belt.
- With the timing marks aligned, tighten the tensioner bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
- Inspect each gasket for the timing covers. The gaskets should be clean and pliable. Replace any which are distorted, cracked or broken. Coat the channel in each timing cover with a light coat of adhesive such as 3M® EC 870 or equivalent. Press the seals squarely into their channels.
- Install the lower timing cover. Then install the upper timing covers, making sure each is properly seated. Tighten the bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
- Install the cooling fan bracket or the accessories mount and stay.
- Install the air conditioning compressor bracket and install the compressor.
- Install the idler pulley bracket assembly.
- Install the mount and bracket for the power steering pump.
- Install the power steering pump.
- Install the cooling fan pulley.
- Install the drive belts: alternator/water pump, power steering and A/C compressor in that order. Adjust each belt to the correct tension.
- Install the fan and clutch assembly.
- Install the radiator shroud.
- Connect the upper radiator hose.
- Fill the cooling system with coolant.
- Double check all installation items, paying particular attention to loose hoses or hanging wires, untightened nuts, poor routing of hoses and wires (too tight or rubbing) and tools left in the engine area.
- Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and let it idle, listening for any unusual noises from the area of the timing belt. Possible causes of noise are the belt rubbing against the covers or a sprocket flange, the belt being too loose and slapping, or a tensioner binding. Do not accelerate the engine if abnormal noises are heard from the timing belt train - severe damage can result.
- Final adjustment of the drive belts may be needed.