I have a 98 350 vortec engine rebuilt it will not start I get a couple pops I replaced the ignition control module Auto Zone said the coil was good. I crank the engine still won't start so I take 2 plugs out they were gas soaked whats up Please Help Someone

is the ignition fuse popped or the ingnition control module bad

Using a volt meter disconnect the electrical plug to coil and check with key on to be sure there is at least 12 volt to coils. if not or voltage is low the ignition switch may be bad, have an assistant jiggle the key in ignition while you are looking at the meter to note voltage fluctuations if any are noted ign. switch is bad also check all fuses under dash as wellas in engine compartment.

What I see the most often is a stalled engine with a loss of spark when driving. Once the engine cools off it will sometimes start and run fine for a short while then do the same thing again. Often, but not always, the pickup up coil or ignition module [both are under the distributor cap] have to heat up quite a bit before they will act up. I replace about 10 ignition modules for every one pickup coil but either one can cause the same identical stalling problem. I keep a few known good modules around as test units so I can just replace a suspected bad module and road test it to see if it works. Another thing that can go wrong in these distributors are the magnets built into the pole piece. A weak or cracked magnet can cause all kinds of odd problems such as stalling when placed in reverse, misfires over 1,000 rpm, etc. Worn bushings in the distributor can also cause problems. As far as a specific test you can do to see which part is failing? I wish there was a relaible one. I've tried using a lab scope and module testers to diganose the culprit but you have to catch the problem as it's happening for those tests to be accurate.

I would check to see if the spark plugs are fouled. Or you might have a bad ignition control module (mounted under the coil packs). Auto Zone can test the ignition control module.

It could be the control module. You can take the module to a local parts store like Auto Zone and they can test the control module.

You can by a new Coil pack from Auto Zone for less then the dealer's cost and Auto Zone can give you the step by step instructions for you to replace the coil pack free of charge and will take about 1 hour if your good with common tools. Auto Zone also can scan your car for DTC codes Free of charge to ensure that it's the coil pack. The other common problem that will also seam like a bad coil pack is a bad ignition module which is what I  am leaning towards since it's three of the cylinders you mentioned, most of the time it's just one of the two coils that will go bad which would only make two of the cylinders go dead. Check the wires to the electronic module first and then the switch the coils and see if the same two cylinders are still dead, if the same cylinders are still dead. Good chance that it's going to be the module and if the other two cylinders go dead and the dead ones come alive then it's going to be the coil pack. Good luck and here is a you-tube link to the ignition module and coil pack replacement procedure. keep me posted, be glad to know you got your car running 100% again . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XgHM1i5jK8

Check the wire harness to the Ignition control module (ICM) or replace it. It cost around $40,00 from Auto Zone and it's common for the ICM to fail, or it may just be starting to fail and it's also know that the OEM distributor had a screen vent at the bottom of the distributor for ventilation to prevent condensation from forming in the distributor. Check to make sure your new distributor has a vent and that it's not plugged up with shipping plastic. Condensation may be forming causing the misfire in the distributor. Good luck and keep me posted. 

try your ignition module in the distributor much more likely. just install rebuilt distributor if that is the problem , if you just replace module the main distributor assem will **** out shortly after.
Make sure you check for broken timing belt also it is one of those two!

Sounds like either the ignition module and or a coil pack is the culprit. I dont remember what year they changed it but if your is the one where the coil packs/module are located on the back of the motor they are a little tricky to get to. You need to remove dog bone mount and replace with a tool that will pull the motor forward so you can gain easier access...good luck. Hopefully yours are right on the top where they should have been since day one... :-)

It could be that the ignition module is defective and causing this problem.If it's the original ignition module it may be time to replace it. The ignition module can be tested by your local Shucks or Auto Zone usually for free, The module when its starting to go out will work fine until it warms up, it will then quit working because the coils inside of it short out, until it cools down. If the module is completely gone there will be no spark at any time, The module is inside the distributor under the rotor held in by a couple of screws,