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overheating? has many causes., if IS?
yes with A/C ON sure.
sure going fast the radiator cools better (higher gears)
OVERHEATING SIGNS ARE WHAT;
BOIL OVER? OR JUST DASH GAUGE TOo HIGH?
coolant leaks to ground or to front passengers toes?
5 year old hemostat should be good
fans kick on , at rear of radiator or are they dead?
off hand blind and deaf, the fans failing, on this 2017 car.
check fuses yet?
scan the PCm for fan errors or?
more causes
1: dead bugs plastered to radiator or front AC condenser. (back blast it with water hose nozzle)
new RAD do check condenser, same fix, cleaned.
2; belt slipping to water pump.
3: water pump impeller rusted to 1/2 its normal size
4; fans fail.
How do you know it's overheating ? Are you going by the gauge ? Did you check the actual temp. of the engine with scan tool data . or A inferred heat gun at the upper radiator hose near the thermostat housing . Do the cooling fans come on ?Is the cooling system full ? Is there air in the system ?
A coolant temperature switch activates the fan motors. This switch regulates voltage to the cooling fan relay. This switch operates the fan whenever the engine coolant temperature exceeds 110°C (230°F). For location and diagnosis, refer to Electrical Diagnosis. A transducer can also activate the circuit, depending on the A/C compressor head pressure going to the condenser.
The engine cooling fan relays provide the high current required for the cooling fan motors using a low current signal coming from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). This signal is a function of various inputs
I would check the relay for the fan. Most on the time there will be another relay of the same type in the fuse box. You can swap them out with each other an see if your fan starts working. there are numerous temperature sensors and of course the computer that could be the cause of your problem. To answer your question, when you turn your AC system to maximum (recirculate) power is sent to the fan constantly to ensure two things happen. One, with the fan on if keeps airflow across the radiator to prevent engine overheating. Two it ensures airflow across the condenser for maximum heat transfer even at low driving speeds. Just like the condenser fan on your house ac unit your car has one too. If you are low on refrigerant, the low pressure cut off switch keeps the compressor from engaging, but I haven't heard of it keeping the fan from working. Last but not least, the plug to the fan!!! Ive had to repair a lot of corroded wires for cooling fans on all kinds of cars. Fans Draw a fair amount of current, and the plug contacts burn with age. I hope this helps you out
bad thermostat, electric fan if equipped not working, clogged radiator, clutch fan if equipped slipping (when turning fan blade by hand it should have a slight "resistance" to it...it should not turn freely with no resistance...fan belt slipping?...radiator cap bad?...
Try this for a diagnostic:
Check coolant level. Fill if necessary. Check for leaks.
Start vehicle. Allow to run.
Observe coolant temp gauge. It should slowly climb to center.
Once coolant temp gauge reaches the middle, the coolant fan is triggered to activate by the vehicle's computer (ecm). Fan should come on until temp drops slightly then cycle off.
If fan is working, move to next step. If fan isn't working, possible causes:blown fuse, faulty fan relay, coolant fan switch, faulty cooling fan.
Next step.
If there are no leaks, and the fan works properly as described above, have a compression test performed. This test will basically measure the compression power (in PSI) in each cylinder by screwing a device into the spark plug hole of each cylinder cranking the vehicle (with ignition disabled) and observing the gauge. Each cylinder reading should be significantly close to its next one. If not, suspect a faulty cylinder head gasket.
hi 1st u have to replace condenser fan and radiator assy , it will solve your problem , cause due to no coolant radiator fan is not working and cause of engine overheating a/c system got trip . replace both condenser fan and radiator and put new coolant. thanks.
Sounds like the AC relay/switch is sticking on sometimes. Locate and swap this relay. Look at your fuse box lids for location or search online for the exact location. You also might have a leak in the ac lines or the AC condenser clutch is not engaging to kick the ac on. You should feel a slight power loss or hear a slight stutter in the engine when pressing your AC switch. This means everything kicked on. It's a millisecond before the ECU realizes this and kicks up the idle to compensate.
Is the thermostat put in correctly?Can you see coolant circulating w/ rad cap off.Start cold w/ cap off and as the coolant heats up you should see flow
Could it be that the a/c problem is noticed more on hot days when a malfunction would be more noticable?
It is doubtful the window problem is related to the a/c problem. But a window that doesn't operate might also be more noticable when you are hot and the a/c isn't working up to par you will be more likely to use the window. But hotter temps have physical properties that might raise resistance in a circuit, or the connections can be affected by the expansion of metal in the plug connections or within the window motor itself. Take some tuner cleaner to the toggle switches it will help if the contacts are dirty. Or a good whack on the door panel where the motor is might get it functional for a while.
If the compressor is kicking in and out it is probably the high pressure cut off switch doing its job.
Usually you want to check the freon pressures to see if it is low. By deduction my guess is its probably not a low freon situation if you usually get good cooling. Hot weather only increases the pressures, so a low pressure problem would theoretically improve.
There are 2 things I suspect, but I am not familiar with your specific vehicle, so this is a generic troubleshooter.
This is my checklist in order of likelihood, provided you aren't low on freon.
Overheating condenser coil-gets too hot and not able to dissipate the heat exchange efficiently. This raises the pressures until the high pressure cut out switch cuts the compressor off. When the condenser cools off pressures normalize and the hi pressure switch disengages, allowing the compressor to compress again.
CAUSES: Clogged condensor radiator fins- clogged with bugs & debris. Clean with high pressure to get the bugs out. Flush them out from the inside to the outside so the don't get lodged deeper in the coil.
Bad condenser fan; bad fan relay, blown fuse or open in circuit.
Clogged condenser coil- Internal blockage. May require condenser replacement, but radiator specialist maybe can by pass the bad spot depending on where it is - may get frosty near blocked area.
Overheating condenser will show up when you are stopped in traffic, but when moving- especially at hiway speeds- you push air through the condenser, which cools it and lowers the pressure, keeping the Hi pressure cut out switch from engaging. Does the belt squeal just before the compressor cuts out? This is a sure sign of a overheating condensor.
The condenser fan cools when you're not moving. Depending on your setup your condenser fan may not be on all the time. On older domestics the condenser is behind the radiator and the radiator fan cools both. On most foreign & newer cars the radiators are side by side with separate electric fans for each.
HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT THE CONDENSER. Start your car, open the doors wide and turn on the a/c on HI. Let it run until the compressor cuts out. Take a garden hose and run water over the condenser- does it steam a lot when the water hits it-then it is probably overheating- Continue to run water over it- DOES THE COMPRESSOR KICK BACK ON WHEN THE CONDENSOR COOLS OFF? If yes, your condensor is overheating.
Remove the water and let it run until the cut-out switch engages again. DOES THE CONDENSOR FAN ENGAGE AT ALL DURING THIS PROCESS? If Yes: Is it blowing normally or sub-par? If blowing normally the fan and circuit are working properly.
IF NO- the problem is a bad fan or fan circuit. Test the fan by disconnecting the 12vdc plug and jumping with 12 volts from the battery. DOES THE FAN WORK WHEN YOU JUMP IT? IF NO- your condensor fan motor is bad- replace it. IF YES- the fault lies in your condenser fan circuit. check fuses, relays, etc for that circuit.
If this isn't your problem here are more some things that may be going wrong, depending on your cars components and configuration.
Clogged condensor coil- flush debris with air or water pressure to the front. Clogged orifice tube or other component depending on what your system has. This is not exhaustive, but it is the most likely culprits.
Good Luck and rate this solution please
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