I just took my '94 Cherokee Country in for some work. I had to(due to the fact im tight on funds this month)take it to a friend of the family. My father inlaw insisted. I also spoke to one of my customers...I work for Cintas-The Uniform People... whose been a body shop owner for 40 yrs. Asked said customer how long the job would take (it was the drivers side door hinge that was totally shot and the bottom one was cracked right off, So it was just a matter of time til the top one went and i lost the whole door on the road) and he said@5-6 hrs and then continued to explain to me the process. Well...my question for you is... Do you think it was wise to take it to this "friend of the family"??? Now, the friend is also an experienced welder but the process that he did took about 20 mins and all he did was tack weld all along each side of the hinge itself. I would think that it would need to be reenforced ALOT more than just tossing a few welds on old 17 year old painted frame and callin it a day... THATS my question. Thank you, Marc K.

I just posted 1min ago to 93
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why guess, crank and get the scan codes?
the ECU will in fact telly you when any of the 3 permissive fail.
will.

that would be a good place to start your local parts store should be able to check it for you

good afternoon i have an jeep grand cherokee problem this morning while im driving to work the car just shut off and when i took to the repair man. He said there nothing wrong with it, he let it run for 2 hours. when i left the shop it shut right off again. he state that he could tell due to no lights came on. and this is still going on what am i going to due

replace pickup coil in the distributor

it should be a filter the screen was not used in 94
unless it is a rare tranny not used much

it should, on the 4.0 they are all the aw4 tranny.

You really need to get your Jeep off of the ground, preferably on fixed supports and have a friend help you with the troubleshooting since you need to be underneath to observe and they need to man the steering wheel.
The problem you describe is severe and dangerous so finding the worn parts shouldn't be difficult; I have seen and heard 'clunks' while the steering was turned even slowly back and forth.
Whatever you replace however, you simply cannot do the final wheel alignment on your own. You are dealing with increments of degrees of toe- in or out, caster, camber too, and these must be correct or uneven tire wear and lousy steering tracking (unsafe at any speed) will be the result.
I believe a good investment for all of our vehicles (family-wide) is the purchase of a Haynes or Chilton service manual. Sometimes you can save a few bucks on eBay but none of them are over $30 abd worth every penny.
We have your same year of GC and the Haynes manual number for it is:
50025
Good luck and don't forget to actually finish tightening (or torquing) those nuts and bolts!     

it sounds to me that your throttle position senser has moved or malfuctioned. check it first #2 map senser they both work togather.hope this helps

this is a fuse I honestly believe check them with ohm meter. Lots of cars if you have a tail light out the dash light will not function also. I hope this helps

Hi there!

Check for leaks at the slave cylinders and flexi hoses.

After several attempts of losing pressure - check the brake fluid level in the master.

If you arn't losing any fluid, You've got a damaged seal in the Master cylinder, or are drawing air in due to improper adjustment (excess travel) of slave cylinders.

Are you trying this with engine running? - How does this affect it (using servo assist)