Check enegine light stay s on all the time, here are the codes im getting, if someone could tell me how to fix these that would be great. p0155 p0141 p0136 p0443 p1451 p0135 p0161 p1409

Some errors will come right back. Some may stay out for a while. I knew someone that got his check engine light cleared right before testing. It would come back about a week later. Don't know what it was.

If the engine is speeding up and slowing down without driving it you might have a vacuum leak. If it is doing it while driving at a certain engine speed it could be a sensor called the (TPS ) Throttle position sensor. If someone has recently worked on it they might have bumped a vacuum hose off

You can not work on a vehicle as your doing

Your checking for generic codes only & throwing
parts at it

You get a couple possible worn or failed parts & have
a few less codes

There is no need to clear ALL Data every time you change a part

You need to STOP

You need professional scan tool software to look at ALL data & go for a road test first

You keep clearing stored data ,so now the process will take longer

You work one code & one system at a time

NO PARTS get replaced that are not tested & found to fail
a test,thus a worn out part.

You need both Factory Emission & Diagnostic Manual, as well
as Wiring Diagram Book-- BEFORE-- you can even walk to the vehicle (Helm.Com)

You have nothing to go by,no system knowledge & no trouble charts,& no wiring diagrams to start your testing

If you got no scan tool & no volt meter & no oscilloscope,
your done,vehicles have to be tested to find a problem,any
problem,resolve it & continue on.

Most people have the misconception that a trouble code tells you what part to replace. The fact is the code tells the mechanic only what to check.
The problem could be a sensor, or a wiring harness, or something mechanical.

I guess I will start by saying I would take it back to Kia and tell them it is not fixed. They are on the hook for the cost of repairs if they failed to diagnose the problem the first time. Once you have other people work on the car, the dealer is off the hook.
It could be dirt or something in the cylinder head blocking oil pressure to the control valve. The control valve uses oil pressure to adjust cam timing.
You may need to have the engine oil flushed, or have the oil pressure checked with a mechanical gauge.

Check idle air control motor and passages.

check connections in the wiring harness and ECM unit
that many codes indicates a wiring or ECM problem

Hi,

Did you happen to go to the Nissan dealer to have your ECU scanned by their computer?

With those parts replace without any diagnostic testing, its like your shop is guessing on something?

P0155 is an O2 sensor heater fault. Could be the wiring to the sensor, could be internal to the sensor. Good explanation here (I see you have been there too!)
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0155

Use a Volt/Ohm meter to check the wiring harness. If those check out okay then replace the sensor.

Replacing an O2 sensor doesn't take long if you can access it. Sometimes there's not much space to work.

As for the cold weather... the cold weather has probably just uncovered an issue with the heater that *might* go away when it warms up. However it will take a while for the CEL to go off.

I had to replace both o2 sensors on my 2002 Tundra after about 50K. Toyota recalled this problem afterwards and refunded my money. My solution to you is to not worry about which one is bad and go ahead and replace both, because I had one bad and before I could replace it the other went bad also. PS: You'll have to purchase a special socket to remove them and unless you pruchase the Toyota product ( I used O'Reilly parts), you have to cut and splice the wires with a waterproof splicing kit included with the sensors. Just follow the instructions, not a hard job.