My 1986 e30 had sealed beams ,i want to put 1989 lights in,when the main beams come on it cuts out the side beams ,i was using the same circuit so can not understand what I have done wrong

a fuse number 24,,,
The following specifications are for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique manufactured throughout 1995-2000.
Fuses Rating Color Circuit Engine bay fuse box 1 80 Black Power supply to main fuse box 2 60 Yellow Radiator fan 3 60 Yellow ABS 4 20 Yellow Daytime running lights 5 30 Light green Fog lamp 6 30 Light green Not used 7 30 Light green ABS 8 30 Light green Air pump 9 20 Light bue PCM module 10 20 Light bue Ignition switch 11 3 Violet PCM memory 12 15 Light bue Horn & hazard flasher 13 15 Light bue Oxygen sensor 14 15 Light bue Fuel pump 15 10 Red Right-hand low beam Passenger compartment fuse box 16 10 Red Left-hand low beam 17 10 Red Right-hand high beam 18 10 Red Left-hand high beam 19 7.5 Brown Heated door mirrors 20 10 Black Windshield wipers 21 30 Light green Electric windows 22 7.5 Brown ABS 23 15 Light bue Reverse lights 24 15 Light bue Brake lights 25 20 Yellow Door locks 26 20 Yellow Main light 27 15 Light bue Cigarette lighter 28 30 Light green Power seats 29 30 Light green Heated rear window 30 7.5 Brown Engine management 31 7.5 Brown Instrument pannel lights 32 7.5 Brown Radio 33 7.5 Brown Front and rear sidelights (left) 34 7.5 Brown Interior lighting & clock 35 7.5 Brown Front and rear sidelights (right) 36 30 Light green Air bag 37 30 Light green Heated blower 38 Unused Relays Color Circuit Location Engine bay fuse box R1 Green Daytime running lights (Canada) R2 Black Radiator fan (high speed) R3 Blue AC cut-out R4 Brown AC clutch R5 Dark green Radiator fan (low speed) R6 Yellow Starter R7 Brown Horns R8 Brown Fuel pump R9 White Low beam headlights R10 White High beam headlights R11 Brown PCM power supply Passenger compartment fuse box R12 White Interior and courtesy lights R13 Yellow Heated rear window R14 Yellow Heated blower R15 Green Windshield wiper motor R16 Black Ignition R17 Unused R18 Black One touch window switch Driver's door R19 Blue Cruise control cut-off Central fuse box bracket R20 Unused R21 Unused R22 White Fog lights Interface module bracket R23 Black Turn signals Steering column R24 White Left-hand flasher Door lock module bracket R25 White Right-hand flasher Door lock module bracket R26 Unused Bulbs / Lights Wattage Type Low beam headlamp 55 9006 Halogen High beam headlamp 55 9005 Halogen Parking / Side light 5 2357A Wedge Front turn signal 21 2357A Bayonet Rear turn signal 21 1157 Bayonet Tail light 21 1157 Bayonet Stop light 21 1157 Bayonet High mount stop light 5 2723 Bayonet Fog/Driving light 55 893 Halogen License plate 5 6418 Festoon Reverse light 21 1156 Bayonet Front sidemarker 5 2357A Wedge Glove box Map light 5 64111 Wedge Dome light 10 6411 Feston Step/Courtesy light Trunk/Cargo area Engine compartment 10 89 Wedge Instrument-general Automatic trans indicator

Since you have a the original rubber seal from your broken glass, cut the seal from the outer edge of the replacement glass and just push it out of the remainder of the rubber. With the original rubber still in the opening on the one your putting it in, lay a strong string from top corner, inside the space where the glass goes, and across the bottom. Push the glass into the seal on opposite side from the string side as much in as possible and begin to pull the string straight out while holding the glass in and this will pull the rest of the outer rubber lip to the outside of the glass and your done. Just a little trick I learned in my youth that I've used many times.

Most common problem is burned connectors at the relay that switches from high to low beams. I think that in '86, the relay was still inside the car above the driver's left foot. If not there, it is toward the front of the passenger compartment on the driver side, between the front inner fender and the battery. If it clicks when you move the dimmer switch, you can follow the click to find it. If the wires are good, the relay contacts may have failed.
On my '91, I lost the low beams because the headlight circuit in the bulb failure sensor had failed. The bulb failure sensor was an orange can-shaped device directly below the steering column under the dash. The headlight low beam wires were gray, as I recall. A new sensor was $150, so I cut the wires and bypassed it. I figured I could tell if I had a low beam burned out. I did not need a warning light for that. The bulb failure sensor still worked for the tail lights.

is located under the dashboard on the driver's side. The fuse label is attached under the steering column. If something electrical in your vehicle stops working, check for a blown fuse first. Below table outlines detail fuse number, its ampere and circuits protected.
No.
Amps
Circuits Protected
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38
7.5 15 10 7.5 (15) (20) _ 10 7.5 7.5 10 10 10 7.5 7.5 10 10 20 15 7.5 20 _ _ (20) 20 20 (20) 15 15 20 (15) 20 20 7.5 7.5 10 7.5 30
Power Window Relay Fuel Pump ACG ABS/VSA Heated Seats* Front Fog Lights* Not used Rear Wiper ODS (Occupant Detection System) Meter SRS Right Headlight High Beam Left Headlight High Beam Small Light (Interior) Small Light (Exterior) Right Headlight Low Beam Left Headlight Low Beam Main Headlight High Beam Small Lights MAIN TPMS Headlight Low Beam Not used Not used Moonroof* Door Lock Front Left Power Window HAC Option Rear Accessory Socket Accessory Front Right Power Window Accessory Power Socket on the Center Table* Rear Right Power Window Rear Left power window ACC Radio ACC Key lock HAC Daytime Running Lights Front Wiper

when doing this conversion you are adding extra high power lights did it recomend changing your altenator to a higher amp alt. ? this is what you will most likely have to do

change the light stalk/switch common fault

sealed beams look ok or are ok?
verify with 12v batterie, if ok, you might have a grounding problem.
check for 12 volt on the connector for the beams with a voltmeter..

You may have a bad earth on the lighting system which is causing a resistance.
This normally shows up as lights dimming when you turn more on , in some cases the lights will switch off altogether

Take a fairly strong wire lead from the negative post of the battery (Minus terminal) and put it on the metal part of the lamp housing to see if the lights brighten.

If they do then you need to clean off all of the earth points for the lighting circuit.

If that does not work then you need to hook a meter onto the supply cable for the dipped beam and check what voltage is getting there, less than 11.5v is not good.

If it is lower then you need to go back to yoyr light switch and check it there if it is 12v + then you have a high impedance connection down in the wiring loom.

there are two headlight fuses in the engine compartment fusebox. one for each side. keep an eye on them. also, go ahead and change your bulbs (wether sealed beam or Halongen swap bulbs).

You should be able to replace just the headlight bulb itself, most cars haven't had sealed beam headlights since the '80s. Assuming that's what you mean by "seal beam". Is it the main beam/dip beam, the high beam, or is it a driving light/fog light (usually mounted down low in the bottom of the front bumper area)?