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..wwwoooaaa.... sounds like you have either: a cracked head, a cracked block, a leaking head gasket, leaking intake gasket,..your antifreeze should NOT mix with anything...
.UNLESS YOU POURED THE ANTIFREEZE INTO THE OIL FILL NECK!!!
it is easy to tell the difference between water and oil
if it is water ,it can be hose , radiator, water pump seal or the like
if it is oil ( red oil ) is the transmission oil cooler lines , or black oil crank shaft seals or oil filter leaks
check the coolant level , take it to an accredited radiator shop and confirm if oil or water
head gasket yes, bc antifreeze is entering throught the oil ports or down throught the rings, if the water get to the oil it will wipe your bearing out
CHECK FOR COOLANT LEAKS AROUND THE RADIATOR LOOK DOWN BETWEEN COOLING FANS AND RADIATOR SIDES FOR SIGNS OF ANTIFREEZE.CHECK ALL RADIATORS HOSES AND HEATER HOSES.IF ALL LOOK GOOD CHECK ENGINE OIL FOR COOLANT LEAKS.IF OIL LOOKS LIKE MILK SHAKE COOLANT LEAKING IN CRANK CASE.YOU HAVE A HEAD GASKET LEAK.YOU NEED TO CHANGE OIL + FILTER. GET THE HEAD GASKET FIX.BECAUSE LEAK IN THE CRANK CASE WILL LOCK UP THE ENGINE.IF CRANK CASE OIL LOOKS OKAY.YOU DONT HAVE THE COOLANT CORRECT MIXTURE.YOU SHOULD HAVE 50/50 ANTIFREEZE AND WATER.
until you can see the leak its still guess work --either mechanic didnt do repair correctly or you have a crack in block --use a mirror and light to look in area for origin of leak
There are several ways to check this problem. The most reliable is a Radiator pressure tester which you might be able to borrow with a deposit from Autozone or Oreillys or Advance. The old-time Service stations used to use them. For sure Radiator repair shops still use them. The idea is to put air pressure in the water system and force the water out of the leak. Sometimes chemical tracers are added to expose tiny leaks.
What does not leak externally would have to be leaking internally.
Looking at your Radiator fluid you should not have oil in the Antifreeze. Then look at your oil dipstick. The oil should not have a white or yellow frothy appearance indicating water content or Antifreeze content. It is possible to leak water into the oil crankcase and the water will partially evaporate leaving the frothy residue.
Once you determine the source of the leak you can make decisions. Internal leaks are the most expensive to fix. These would be internal things like head gaskets. Evidence of head gasket problems are oil in the Antifreeze and Antifreeze in the crankcase or frothing. It is worth it to try a modern leak-stop. This is one area where modern chemicals are better than products of the 1950's.
But do not use leak-stop for hoses and water pump problems. Hoses are cheap to replace and water pump seals and gaskets are subject to erosion from the flowing water.
If you can not find anything through this testing, put a page of newspaper under the interior carpet by the Heater core. A slow leak can drip on the carpet and gradually soak in before you discover it.
problem could be heads bolts . i put new bolts in put a little sealer on them . make sure your bolt holes is clean free from debris. put a lillte sealer on intake gasket on top and bottom where coolants travel. if all was done . drain engine oil in clean container .set it aside. take radiator cap off .you a coolant pressure rise kit .put a pan under oil pan with drain plug still off .pressure your radiator about 10 psi. make sure you have antifreeze in radiator and engine . when you pressure up to 10 psi look under the car if coolant comes out oil pan. you got leaking head gasket. if not .put oil pan plug back on . put oil back in car . check your freeze plugs also.
you need a water pump. water pump is inside the timing chain area/internal. the coolant is leaking out of a small hole behind the a/c compressor. water pump WILL fix it.
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