Front axles not disengaging. will shift in fwd but axles still turning when disengaged and has a slight noise when driving

Bad bearing?

There are 2 models here the push button will flash if the system is not engaging or disengaging properly . If front drive shaft is turning. That is with car raised and supported . if front drive axles do not turn then the axle actuator is not engaging axle shaft passenger side. Remove actuator and manually engage shifting collar with a screwdriver still does not turn then inner axle is twisted.

alot of times when engaged on the fly or disengaged on a slope the shift control module on the transfercase can stick. try to re create the terrain when it was engaged and put it in reverse hold the brakes and shift out of fwd let it roll a few feet, stop completely put it in drive. that should pop it out

Free wheeling hubs are installed on the hubs to engage the axle and lock to the hubs making them turn. When you disengage the hubs (freewheel) the axle is not driving the hub hence you have effective 2 wheel drive I suggest you check wheel bearings or make sure that they are in fact disengaged properly

Possible the vacuum bleed-off to the switch you installed isn't allowing it to completely disengage. Pull the bleed-off line from the new switch and see if it works. could be just a tight spot/bent closed in the bleed-off line or the vent plugged.

Sounds like your axle seals have leaked out all the fluid. Take it to a garage and get a free estimate on it and they will check your axle seals.

Is the front driveshaft turning but the wheels are not? or is the noise coming from the transfer case and the front driveshaft is stationary. If the driveshaft is not turning the problem is inside the transfer case. If the driveshaft turns, remove the front differential cover and make sure the gears are not damaged. Before doing that though, If the boots on the axles are torn, chances are that the c/v joints (one or both) have failed. The front diff is an "open type" which means that the wheel with the least amount of traction will receive all the power. If a joint fails there is no "traction": at that wheel so the opposite one will not turn as well. You will see the axle turning but the wheel will remain stationary. If joint has failed, most times it's faster and easier (and not much more $ to buy a complete rebuilt axle). Chilton or haynes manual outlines r&r...not terribly difficult job but if you have any questions about any of it just ask!

I've seen some that can be shifted while in park, but generally even when that is possible, it is always better to shift while rolling at a slow speed (under 20mph). When all components are turning, it's easier for them to properly engage without grinding.. If after you are finished using 4x4, the front axle does not disengage, you can usually get it to do so by disengaging the shifter, then backing up for about ten to twenty feet.

The light blink's to warn its not properly out of 4WD. When the light blink's it is recomended you reverce a few meter's to allow the front axle to disengage.

I have 3L diesel manual gear 2000. Happened once after the FWD vaccumed operated fork mechanism in the front axle got a very small kick and bent very little. This happened by some sand that entered between the front plate protection and theFWD mechanism. I had to opeb and ground the shaft end. Vaccum was OK.