2000 Hyundai Elantra Logo
Posted on Dec 19, 2010
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Elantra 2001 manual, the clutch pedal travels a long way out before it engages

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  • Expert 242 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 19, 2010
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Joined: Dec 19, 2010
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There is two possibilities, 1: the vehicle has more than 90.000 and needs a clutch and the other the hydraulic system is leaking, to inspect open the hood and find the little reservoir make sure not to inspect the brake fluid level, if the fluid level is low look for the source of that leak, start at the most common place the clutch sleeve cylinder attached to the manual transmission, then the line from the cylinder to the reservoir, if all this is dry, my friend you need a clutch.

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  • Anonymous May 30, 2012

    Thanks for your solution! My 2001 Elantra has same problem, which came on quickly, beginning this morning. The little reservoir, located at the back of engine on driver side, which is on top and easily accessible, looked empty. We found it was leaking under the dash. This is associated with the master cylinder. The slave cylinder was dry and not leaking. Estimate to fix by local mechanic is about $200 for parts and labor. Dealer quoted $250. Adding break fluid to reservoir has clutch working again for short-term until I get car in to be fixed. Happy that clutch won't need to be replaced -- dealer quote was $900+ for new clutch. Car has 130k miles and with luck, perhaps will get 200+k miles out of clutch. Side note: I first came across Hyundai Elantras in India and there they have reputation for being long-lasting cars, and given rough roads, that says a lot!

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My 2001 Hyundai elantra won't go anywhere in any gear the clutch pedal still feels good and strong though and makes no noise or chatter when engaged or disengaged where do I begin

if cable check the cable for broken wires --replace the cable
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even though the pedal feels good if it is a cable it may be jamming and not allowing full pressure on the clutch plate by the pressure plate
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Your pedal height may be adjustable by a stopper bolt at top of pedal. You would have to check the specification for your car. Most important that the pedal has about a half inch free travel before clutch begins to engage. You need that free play to ensure the release bearing (the throw-out bearing) is not touching the fingers on the pressure plate when not engaged. If it always is touching, it will be rolling around constantly and will go out prematurely.
Your new clutch will allow gear engagement sooner as the clutch pedal is released. I mean gears will engage just as pedal is lifting off from floor. You should notice that difference-the old clutch would have taken longer pedal travel from floor before releasing.
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I don't see how they could have.
If you can work the slave by hand, it may be a problem with the clutch master cylinder. Maybe the rod from clutch pedal into the master is bent or binding up and won't travel into the master. You could check if master operates easily by taking line off at the slave cylinder (or if not able to remove hose, then open the bleeder valve on slave) and see if your pedal operates now. Use a can to catch fluid if you don't want it to spill on floor. If the pedal still won't move it must be a problem with the master cylinder or the clutch rod.
If the pedal works with line removed, or the bleed valve open, then the release bearing inside the bellhousing must be binding up and not moving forward to engage clutch. (The slave cylinder pushes the clutch fork lever which pushes the release bearing forward on a shaft up against the clutch pressure plate to allow the clutch to operate .If the release bearing is the problem, the transaxle will have to be removed to fix it.
As I said, though, if you can operate the slave and the cllutch lever it pushes with your hand, it doesn't sound like it is binding down there. Check the pedal's push rod going into the master cylinder. Good luck.
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Sounds like the clutch assy is about worn out. Most hydraulic clutches are self adjusting so when the clutch disc lining wears thin it takes more pedal travel to engage.
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