Hi... My 1988 Nissan Maxima it started to surge at stop signs, and then sometimes die. So I changed the pressure regulator and the fuel temperature sensor. It helped some. Then I started having problems with the throttle switch. The car wouldn't idle. I replaced the switch with no luck. It ran worse. It ran rough, then died. No fuel getting to the fuel injectors. The pump runs, but weak. I replaced that too. The new pump runs louder than the old, no fuel delivery. Lines are not pluged (both) from the tank and return. Rechecked fuseable links and fuses, connections etc. I tried putting a little pressure in the tank to force the fuel out, some fuel came through, but not enough. Fuel system is not pressurizing.Tank is full of fuel. Was there a recall on the injectors? Car will not start. Any assistance would be great. Thanks.
Could be the Mass airflow sensor, but more than likely an obstruction just past the air mass sensor that is causing the engine to die at idle- no airflow across wires that are heated to detect the flow.Cars this old will develop obstructions in the airflow region.Also change air filter while repairing.
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Well, sometimes you get lucky replacing parts, but usually its something other than the component in question. The trouble codes are a guide as to what to test, not what to replace. Code 325 is for the knock sensor which could be a phantom code. Code 100 is for a bad signal from the MAF sensor which may or may not be caused by a bad sensor. It could be a vac leak too. Code 110 is for a bad signal from the intake air temp sensor. The signal tells the computer what the temp of incoming air is to help the computer decide how rich the fuel mixture should be. You need to get the testing procedures for each code and follow them. I would skip code 325 and start with code 110. The fuel pump was probably a waste of money unless you checked fuel pressure before you replaced it and it was low. Same thing with the O2 sensors. Very rare if both sensors fail at the same time.
It's possible that your Tourque Converter on your Transmission is bad.
If the car runs fine while driving and cuts off ONLY when you are idling (foot completely off the gas pedal and RPM's at idle speed) then your idle air control valve my need adjusting or need to be replaced, or idle air passage make have been blocked off by excessive carbon build-up.
If build-up is the problem, a good removal and cleaning will do the trick or an off the shelf spray cleaner may get the job done as well.Could also be clogged fuel injection system.
Try a fuel treatment with a full tank of gas.if a older model GM front wheel drive it could be the lock-up solenoid on the transmission. or it could be a stopped up catalytic converter on about any make and model.
First thing id do is check and change the fuel filter, its usually checked by blowing air through it (in the arrow direction) if no air flows through or it blows through slowly then its more than likely plugged change it and go from there. sometimes after all avenues have been followed and the problem still exists i have seen the sock on the fuel pump be plugged and do the same. it will run great while accelerating but stall at idle due to not enough fuel pressure.