My 2004 Vue makes a very consistent winding type sound while driving. It starts out low and increases to a point and never veries until I slow down. What could that be? No front end deviation, no vibration, car goes straight down the road.

2002 3.0 AWD...SES Light and won't accelerate - SaturnFans.com Forums

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Mar 10, 2009 - 4 posts - ‎2 authors SES Light and won't accelerate Vue Tech. ... As in DRIVE it will not over rev when you push the pedal to the floor. ... Does any one have any ideas where I should start? ....2004vue, Vue General, 14, 07-16-2004 12:57 PM ... 99 SL1 Won't accelerate
14 posts
Nov 25, 2013
slow accelerate 1st gear
20 posts
Aug 27, 2012
shaking during acceleration - what is it???
20 posts
May 9, 2010
If You Are Having Hesitation Problems on Acceleration ...
20 posts
Apr 25, 2004
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200 Complaints: 2003 Saturn Vue Power Train: Automatic ...

www.carcomplaints.com/Saturn/Vue/.../power_train-automatic_transmiss...
The 2003 Saturn Vue has 200 NHTSA complaints for the power train:automatic ... At 76,000 miles when accelerating to get on highway, the RPM's were roaring .... Car junked, waste of over $20,000, I can't believe there has been no recall. ... we think this problem makes this model a lemon from the beginning. ... Nov 192004 ...

First change the belt driving the compressor. Belt slippage is the number one cause of low cooing at idle or slow speeds (if the charge is OK)

I have the same problem with my 04 v6 awd vue.
The issue i see is with the transmission torque converter going in and out of lockup consistently. I have noticed when i engage cruise control this problem goes away for the most part. Today i turned on cruise at 30 miles per hour after noticing the rpm fluctuation about 400 rpm. change to only about 100 rpm. This has been an issue scene day one from the dealer. no codes, the transmission has not failed nor the torque converter. I think it is an issue with the drive by wire system. when you engage cruise control the foot throttle position sensor is out of the equation. This is my best guess, you can take it with a grain of salt.

Master cylinder would be the obvious solution, but it seems a bit soon for a six year old vehicle, unless you do a tremendous amount of short distance stop/start driving. You could try bleeding the brakes and renewing the fluid, but I doubt if that will solve your problem, it definitely sounds like worn seals in the master cylinder.

We can fix that problem for you speedometer we are located in Dallas Texas where are you located at

When you say 'No Current' do you mean no electrical supply. In fact there is vary little current delivered to the central lead of the distributor. The working principle: Low voltage (12 volts) is supplied to the 'coil'. The coil behaves like a transformer in reverse, instead of stepping the voltage down it steps the voltage up. Inside the coil is, as the name suggests, a coil. The primary coil is the low voltage (12v) supplied and consists of just a few windings. The secondary coil consists of very many windings. The ratio of the low number of windings of the primary coil to the large number of windings of the secondary coil is the factor by which the 12 volt supply is stepped up. The coil output consists of very high voltage charge (tens of thousands of volts). This high charge is delivered with negligible current (hence my earlier query). The charge is conveyed by high tension lead to the centre of the distributor. The distributor arm 'distributes' the charge to each cylinder in turn. The charge is so great that it jumps the spark plug gap creating a spark and hence ignites the compressed fuel/air mix. That's the boring bit, to effect a remedy check the low voltage leads to the coil and check that 12volts can be measured on a meter. A bit crude this, but ease the insulation cap back on the central distributor terminal put your finger on it and have someone turn the engine over. A hell of kick up the arm tells you that the high tension side of the coil is working :-). The voltage is so high that it most likely beyond the ability to be measured using a standard volt meter. If not there is 1) a possible short or break in the high tension cable between the coil and distributor or 2) the coil is fried. Either way it is not too expensive to change these. Also check the contact breaker points within the distributor are clean and are of the correct gap setting. An emery board/nail file I find is a convenient and quick way to polish the opposing contact points.

Are you sure it is the engine. Try putting in neutral as you are slowing down. If the noise is still there then it sounds like a wheel bearing failing

The RDM or Rear Differential Module on these GM vehicles (Vue, Torrent, Equinox) is a known weak point. It is most likely shot as the trans outputs power to the front and rear equally; gearotor pump(s) in the RDM then assign traction to each rear wheel if the wheel is turning slower than the input. So if it is still turning it must not be transmitting that torque to either "braked" rear wheel... There was a recall for the RDM in which GM quietly increased the slippage at which it engauged the rear wheels due to high failure rates...

sounds like your catalilic converter is plugged up with the information you have given me,That is part of your exhaust system