Air in clutch line. how do you bleed the system?

Is it hydraulic.Or cable operated

Try bleed

1. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder. ...
2. Locate the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. ...
3. Attach the hose to the bleed screw. ...
4. Open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. ...
5. Have a friend press the clutch pedal in and hold it. ...
6. Close the bleed screw. ...
7. Have your friend release the clutch pedal.

Bleeding Clutch by Blocking the Slave Cylinder

yes the slave cylinder has a bleeder make sure the system is full of fluid and keep it full takes 2 people one to press the clutch one to open bleeder closer the bleeder before the other person releases clutch repeat till there is no more air in system

you need to pressure bleed the system, or you can fill the brake system to over fill as it needs to be over the pipe for the clutch line. and keep it there and pump and bleed the line, but before pumping undo the bleed screw and put bowl uner to catch fluwid and fill the line up till it runs out clear with no bubbles. then tighten the bleed screw. then fill up and pump pedal, the re bleed. should be done then, pressure kit doe this all in one just hold clutch down and undo the bleed screw let air out etc then tighten up. and its done. used for doing the breaks as well.

the most likely reason is either the clutch master cyl. needs to be replaced.or the.slave cyl. its mounted down on the transmation under the hood find the resivore for the clutch. check the fluid level.if its low , fill it back up , and look for signs of a leak
you will probally have to bleed out all of the air from the system.its done almost the same way as bleeding the brakes. Good Luck.

I don't know if you have hydraulic clutch cylinder but sounds like it may be bypassing or have air in system. Try bleeding system and checking for pressure when pedal is pushed

Its bascily the same princable as bleeding brakes However you need to look for leaks in differant stops . With the clutch you the resivior that you fill with fluid then the master cylinder witch is attached to the brake pedal with a rod to push it in when you apply the brakes and then the slave cylinder that is located near the clutch disc and pressure plate and flywheel on the bell houseing . The slave cylinder it where the bleeder is located and has a fitting much like a calipar or wheel cylinder that needs to be opened and closed during the bleeding process to let the air out open pedal depressed and closed when the pedal is released so the air can't get back in the system . Air is compresable fluid is not . Look for fluid leaks inside the cab of the vehicle near the master cylinder because if fluid can get out then air is getting in the system and you will never be able to bleed it completly You will need a clear peice of plastic tubeing that fits over the bleeder put the other end in a bottle with some fluid in it already have some one push down on the clutch pedal while you have a wrench on the bleeder to open and close it as required when the air bubbles stop comeing out the end of the tubeing that is in the bottle with the fluid you are done bleeding the system Good luck its not that hard you just need two people to do it and make sure the bleeder is closed when the pedal is travaling up or you will **** air back into the system

Bleeding the system is as follows. It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple, which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles still coming out.

1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don't forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don't introduce more air into the line).

2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down, keeping weight on the pedal as fluid is released.

3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.

4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.

5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.
Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. If clutch is still spongy you may have to repeat the bleeding after a few days driving.

It's a matter of bleeding the clutch system completely. You do need to make sure you don't ,have any leaks at the Clutch Master Cyl. or at the Clutch Slave Cyl or the line running between both, and that you don't have clutch fluid in the drivers compartment just below where the clutch rod comes through the firewall. That would of course mean you have to replace the Clutch Master Cylinder due to internal leakage.

This isn't so unusual, you'll have to pull up on the pedal by hand & pump it a few times to get pressure enough to properly bleed the system, or, you will have to start with bleeding the Clutch Master Cyl. first by loosening the line there & have someone push down the pedal, then before letting up on the pedal, tighten the line to prevent air from being drawn in. Repeat two times to get any air out here.

If your parts and lines are all in good shape then re-fill the resivoir & have someone to pull up on the clutch by hand if needed & then if necessary, use their hand to depress & pull the pedal a few times to try & build some pressure so that you can bleed the Clutch slave cylinder a few times to get all of the air out. After you've finished bleeding the system, the pedal should stay in the up position except when being depressed and you should have consistently even pressure when using the clutch.

good luck.

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Ok you want to check if your slave cylinder is bled and that is the pressure plate. However, the clutch may have pressure, it dose not always engage the clutch all the way witch would cause a slamming of the clutch. Anothing thing is to check is that if you have had your clutch changed recently make sure that the proper clutch has been in staled because there are a couple diffrent choises out their. If thats not it all I can think of is your slave cylinder fluid is low. You can use a hand held brake vaccum bleeder to do this as well and it removes a bunch of the air.

Bleeding a clutch properly removes all the air from the clutch line. You want to remove the air through the master cylinder at the top of the clutch system rather than through the bottom by pumping the clutch pedal. Pumping the clutch will not remove all the air. Bleeding the clutch on a Ford Ranger will take about 20 or 30 minutes.

Raise your truck 6 inches off the ground with a jack. You can drive the truck on ramps if you have them. Lifting the truck will make it easier to bleed the clutch I promise.

Use a turkey baster to **** the brake fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir located at the top of the master cylinder.

Fill the pump style oil can with brake fluid and attach the flex line to the opening on the oil can. Use a new can. You do not want to pump dirt particles or another fluid into the clutch line. This is just good practice I think.

Pump the flex line with brake fluid to remove all the air. You do not want to add additional air to the clutch system.

Open the bleeder valve located on the internal cylinder with a 7mm wrench and quickly attach the flex line to the valve. I believe this is the wrench you need this is what the size of my ranger is but yours may differ. (Remember the slave cylinder may be inside the transmission bell housing.)

Pump the can to move brake fluid up the clutch line. Stop when you no longer see bubbles coming out of the brake fluid reservoir. It should take about 5 minutes to remove all the air from your system.

Use the wrench to close the bleeder valve and remove the flex line from the bleeder valve and this should complete your job.

I hope you have the best of luck with this project!