On the coil how many volt is a coil should have on poistiveside whenswitch is on it have 6.2volt when swith on 12 volt when the ecu is disconnect it have 12 it will not start an run it 318

are you meaning the voltage regulator ? on the alternator ?, you need to check the electrics as you could of had and electrical spike, its where the power out is not dc and turns to ac this can damage other electrical components and even over heat the wiring, i've only seen this a few times it's only usually on 15v alternators. most power is relayed through the immobiliser on newer vehicles, turns power on when activated so this sends power to the ignition, its a delicate system when it comes to voltage. you would need a meter to test the voltages, to the ecu with the ecu plug removed and check that there is a 12 volt supply to the ecu, it may be 10 volts some times as the system has a power drop of one to 2 volts. test that there is voltage if there is voltage check the ecu.

problem in the ignition control module or coil
replace the coil with a suitable voltage rating( some are straight 12 volts and some are 12 volts start 7.5 volts run
it is an overheating electronic component that is causing the fault

Hi,
Did you verify if it has a main fuse for the ignition?...Link attached shows the fuses listed in the Owner's Manual and there's a IGNITION fuse that may be suspect...or some other 'main EGI/ECU' type fuse.

GL,
TD

RAV4 repair manuals

If there is no +12 to the coil then you must trace it to the fuse box and the ignition switch because without power there will be no output. Jump a 12 volt and see if the engine fires, if so trace using a test lamp 12 volt park lamp or a multimeter.

If the car has starting problems then check these tips:

http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5843031-tips_check_car_not_start

usually those coils are pulsed at the ground wire end of the coil. So you could have 12 volts in. The question is...do you have 12v out the ground end?
If so then the coil pulseing unit may be bad.That signal,should come from the distributor....or maybe from the ECU Processor.

Thats the fuse for the ECU, engine control module, and is a 15amp for gas 2.0. i would locate the ECU which is under the center of the plenum in the engine compartment and disconnect the long plug. Check for green discoloration on the multipin connector. Sometimes moisture will get in there and short some of the pins together. Leave ECU unplugged and replace the fuse. If it still blows cause is between the fuse and the ECU.

anti theft and a bad ecu

When activate the shutdown sistem in Dodge, the power line of ECU is of, but the power line is generated from the ECU to all the control sistem, including the Transmition control module. That is the reason of the car don't start. The line of 12 volts of the injectors, and ignition coil is in the of moment, and when the temperature of the board of the ECU is down, it start again. Here in Chile, I repair the ECU, but in other countrys, you can buy an other new.
Good Luck.

if you disconnect the coil wire and the voltage increases, the i would have to say you have a shorted out coil.

You need a voltmeter or test light to find 12 volts on one side terminal of the coil--the other side terminal goes to the distributor. If both sides have 12 volts, then the points may be dirty. If no 12 volts on the coil, trace that wire back to a resistor block on the firewall--check both ends for 12 volts. If still no 12 volts, check the ignition switch. Have you checked for a blown fuse?
Generators are usually nearly totally enclosed and long with several terminals sticking out. Alternators are shorter and wider with lots of ventilation slots and several terminals on the back. They also have a prominent fan behind a smaller pulley. You might see if you can find a Haynes service manual for this car if you are on your own.