Air in brake line ? fluid not flowing out at rear wheel when bleeding brackes

1. If there is a substantial fluid eruption, there are air bubbles still trapped in the system. You must repeat the bleeding procedure to remove that air. A modest disturbance in the fluid returning to the reservoir indicates a properly bled brakesystem.
   

   How To: Bleed Your Brakes - Feature - Car and Driver

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How To: Bleed Your Brakes - Feature - Car and Driver

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Car and DriverIf there is a substantial fluid eruption, there are air bubbles still trapped in the system. You must repeat the bleeding procedure to remove that air. A modest disturbance in the fluid returning to the reservoir indicates a properly bled brake system.

How to Bleed Brakes - Tips on Bleeding Brakes

Im confused first thing is to connect all lines, fill master and start bleeding at master, have someone pump brake three times and hold, open line at master allow fluid or air to flow and close, do not leave open to long,after 3 sec of fluid flow close line. you will do this to every line on the master. pumping the pedal three times and holding down pedal every time you open the line , after bleeding master you will then go to the left front as this is the brake with no fluid flow. you will make sure brake fluid is full always check after a few bleedings.

Remove the bleeder screw and place finger over the hole. tell them when to go down and when to let up, this may take a while if a lot of air is in system, remove finger and tell them to push down then put finger over hole and tell to release then tell them to push as they push release finger, you will need to do this until you get fluid flow making sure when pedal is released that hole is covered with finger so that air is not sucked into system. once you get a flow you will put bleeder in and bleed that wheel, if bleeding is good you will then bleed system starting at rt rear then left rear and then rt front and last left front.

PRESSURE BLEEDING

MANUAL BLEEDING

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For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.

WARNING Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.

MASTER CYLINDER

See Figure 1
If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.

1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise.
2. Connect 2 short pieces of brake line to the outlet fittings, bend them until the free end is below the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs.
3. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 type brake fluid.
4. Using a wooden dowel, or equivalent, pump the piston slowly several times until no more air bubbles appear in the reservoirs.

Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown

1. Disconnect the 2 short lines, refill the master cylinder and securely install the cylinder cap.
2. If the master cylinder is on the vehicle, it can still be bled, using a flare nut wrench.
3. Open the brake lines slightly with the flare nut wrench, while pressure is applied to the brake pedal by a helper inside the vehicle.
4. Be sure to tighten the line before the brake pedal is released.
5. Repeat the process with both lines until no air bubbles come out.
6. Bleed the complete brake system, if necessary.

If the master cylinder has been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation into the vehicle, it is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system.

PRESSURE BLEEDING

When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

1. You should use bleeder tank tool C-3496-B or equivalent, with the required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for using a pressure bleeder.
2. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to get a steady stream of fluid.
4. After about 4-8 oz. of fluid has been bled through the brake system and an air-free flow is maintained in the hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
5. Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then, check the pedal for travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
6. Once the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the pressure bleeding equipment from the master cylinder.

MANUAL BLEEDING

See Figure 2
Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn

1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the bleeder screw opens, the brake pedal will drop.
4. Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only AFTER the bleeder screw is closed.
5. Repeat the procedure 4 or 5 times at each bleeder screw, then check the pedal for travel. If the pedal travel is not excessive, or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not re-enter the brake system.
6. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the pedal is solid.

1. Check the fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel. Add DOT3 fluid, if necessary.
2. If the master cylinder was disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder.
   2. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.
   3. Block off the outlet plug with your finger, and release the brake pedal.
   4. Repeat 3 or 4 times.
   
   
3. Bleed the brake starting with the one furthest from the reservoir and then the next furthest, etc.
   
4. Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
5. At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug to 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.), then release the brake pedal.
6. Repeat until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
7. Repeat the procedure to bleed the air out of brake line for each wheel.
8. Check the fluid level and add DOT3 fluid if necessary.

The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.

1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
   2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
   4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
   5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
   6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
      

WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
   2. Left front
   3. Left rear
   4. Right front
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
   2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
   3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
   4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system

Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Bleeding brake lines requires 2 people. If you are sure your problem is air in the brake lines then you need to bleed the air out. First step is to be sure the brake fluid reservoir is full of fluid. Then crawl under the car starting at the right rear tire. There is a small fitting that is near where the brake line enters the back of the wheel assembly. You will need a wrench to fit this fitting. Have someone in the car to pump the brake pedal three times and the last time hold the pedal down firmly. At that point you will loosen the fitting at the wheel and brake fluid will spray from the fitting. If there is air in the lines, it will make a popping sound when it escapes with the brake fluid. The person in the car should hold the brake pedal down until you tighten the fitting back. If they let up on the pedal before you tighten the fitting it will draw air back into the lines. If no air pops out, you may have to repeat the process several times per wheel. Move to the other rear wheel, repeat then to the right wheel, then the left front wheel. During the bleeding process, be sure to keep the brake fluid reservoir full of brake fluid. Obviously, don't get the fluid into your eyes, mouth or nose. Also it can cause rashes and reddening of the skin so you may want to wear rubber gloves. It will leave an oily stain if you let it flow onto your driveway or garage floor, so keep them covered during bleeding.

Here is the procedure from the service manual. I would add just one thing. Do each wheel in this order

1. right rear wheel
2. left rear wheel
3. right front wheel
4. left front wheel

BLEEDING

HINT: If any work is done on the brake system or if air in the brake lines is suspected, bleed the air from the system.

NOTICE: Do not let brake fluid remain on a painted surface. Wash it off immediately.


a)FILL BRAKE RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID Fluid:SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT3

b)BLEED MASTER CYLINDER HINT: If the master cylinder has been disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder.

c)Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder. SST 09023-00100 Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.

Block off the outlet plug with your finger and release the brake pedal.
Repeat (b) and (c) 3 or 4 times.


BLEED BRAKE LINE

1. Connect the vinyl tube to the caliper or wheel cylinder bleeder plug.
2. Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
3. At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal. Torque: (Bleeder plug) Front brake caliper
: 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 74 inch lbs.) Rear wheel cylinder: 8.5 Nm (87 kgf-cm, 75 inch lbs.)
4. Repeat (b) and (c) until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
5. Repeat the above procedure to bleed the air out of the brake line for each wheel.

CHECK FLUID LEVEL IN RESERVOIR Check the fluid level and add fluid if necessary. Fluid: SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT3

You'll need to start bleeding the brake system at the Master cylinder to determine where the problem lies.

The lines coming out of the master cylinder will need to be loosened & bled there, initially you can just do the back ones to identify the problem, but once fixed, the system will have to be bled from the Master cylinder first, then the farthest wheel from it, then next farthest, then next, until you do the drivers wheel last.

This method of bleeding the brakes prevents air from crossing from one line to another, causing air to be left in the system.

Back to bleeding the rear brakes first: As someone pumps up the brake pressure, making sure the resivoir stays full, with the cap on between bleeding, and have the person pressing the pedal to do these thngs.
1. Always move the pedal slowly, pressing and releasing.
2. Never release the pressure on the pedal after bleeding a brake, until the line is tightened, then release slowly to prevent air from getting into the fluid.

You should of course get fluid at the master cylinder when you bleed it (or just replace it), then you'll need to bleed the line at the right rear wheel (first) a few times to get fluid if it's been leaking, then the left rear wheel. If you get pressure but no fluid to the rear and the master cyliinder did have pressure released when you bled it, there is either a restriction in the line itself, or the porportioning valve could be damaged. (unusual for the valve to go bad actually, inspect lines for damage such as being pinched if you're getting pressure but no fluid.

Final test if it hasn't been resolved-remove lines at porportioning valve & make sure fluid is leaving/entering there as it should. If you find it defective, a good replacement can come from a salvage yard, or you can buy them new.

Brake fluid on the floorboard under the dash near the brake pedal=bad Master Cylinder.

good luck

If you don't have someone to help you you'll need to get a one man brake bleeding kit. The bleeding kit will take the place of the helper. IF you have a helper start with the rear passenger side wheel (furthest from master cylinder). Remove the wheel, have a helper sit in the vehicle and pump the brakes several times (motor off). Tell them to hold the pedal down while you open the bleeder screw. Tighten the bleeder screw before the helper releases the brake pedal to avoid sucking air back into the line. Repeat this process until the fluid flows out of the bleeder with no air. Then repeat these steps on each wheel. The order of bleeding is always furthest from the master cylinder. Rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, and lastly front driver. After each wheel is done check the fluid level in the master cylinder and add as necessary. You don't want it to get low and **** air in from the cylinder.

Your complaint states that you see no air, is there fluid coming out of the left bleeder when bleeding the brakes? If you only see a few drops dribbling out, or nothing comes out at all...This can be a very difficult problem to solve. If this vehicle is a 1992 or later, it has rear antilock brakes, and if it is an ABS system, bleeding usually requires special equipment, and procedures. But there is something you can try. This takes quite a bit of time and patience, and a little bit of preparation. First you must realize that in the case of rear ABS, each rear brake has it's own fluid source, and plumbing from the ABS unit. If the obstruction is in the ABS unit none of the steps following will solve the problem, but you'll have to perform these steps to find out! DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL I INSTRUCT YOU TO HAVE AN ASSISTANT HELP YOU! USE PROPER PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT! (Gloves, and eye protection, and protect your skin from exposure to brake fluid!) First we must know whether the flexible brake hose on the left rear is obstructed. The easiest way is to simply replace it, or if you don't want to start with a new part, you could disconnect it from the steel brake line that runs along the frame towards the rear of the car. (you don't have to remove it from the wheel cylinder first). Place a drip pan underneath the disconnected components. Now open the hood and remove the master cylinder cap. Make sure the brake fluid level is at the maximum height in the master cylinder. Now go back and look to see if there is any fluid leaking from the steel brake line. If there is not, then this is the point where patience is a virtue. There is air in the system all the way to the ABS unit. If the ABS unit is not obstructed or defective, fluid should flow by virtue of the force of gravity through the system and out of the end of the disconnected steel line, but if there is no fluid flow, it will take several minutes to possibly up to an hour and a half. If you have the patience to leave the car alone, maybe go to lunch, or to the auto parts store to shop for a while, gravity will do the bleeding for you. Once fluid begins to leak from the line, reconnect the brake hose and open the bleeder. Allow several more minutes for the wheel cylinder to fill and fluid to bleed out of the bleeder, then close the bleeder. Now do a complete bleed procedure using an assistant to pump the brakes while you finish bleeding any remaining residual air out. If you didn't get fluid from the bleeder, after you reconnected the hose, and after you waited long enough for the wheel cylinder to fill, then the brake hose is obstructed, and you will need a replacement brake hose. Once you are sure there is fluid flow, and no obstructions between the bleeder and the ABS unit, then you shouldbe able to obtain adequate pressure. If you can not get pressure, or fluid flow, you probably need to replace the ABS unit. There are additional procedures for ABS unit bleeding, but again, special equipment is required, so professional service is recommended.