1990 Buick LeSabre Logo
Posted on Oct 31, 2010
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1990 buick lasabre with a 3.8 engine, cranks but no spark. No voltage to the primary side of coil. Code shows 22. Changed the trottle position sensor, crank position sensor and cam position sensor. Had the electronic ignition module tested. Tested fine. Still no spark. Fuses in interior fuse block test good.

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  • Posted on Oct 31, 2010
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Joined: Apr 29, 2010
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1. Monitor the 5v reference, Gray wire to the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) with a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) set to the MIN/MAX setting.

2. Monitor the TPS signal circuit, Blue wire with a DVOM. Voltage should range smoothly from approximately 0.44 to 5.0 volts as the throttle is opened.

3. Tap test the Electronic Control Module (ECM) and see if the codes come back or if the engine reacts.

possible causes wiring or Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

  • 2 more comments 
  • sstarr465 Oct 31, 2010

    Does tap test mean what it sounds like??
    And isn't the PCM the same thing as the ECM? PCM on 96 and newer and ECM on earlier models?

  • Anonymous Nov 01, 2010

    yes just use the handle of a screw driver and yes

  • sstarr465 Nov 03, 2010

    Well the tap didn't work but I did change the ECM..Still no spark. Someone told me there's a fuse under the hood. I can't find it. Is there such a fuse on mine. And yet another person says it has to be the mass air flow sensor. I didn't think that could cause no spark?

  • Anonymous Nov 04, 2010

    Mass air flow sensor could but easy to test just unplug it and try to start it. If it starts you found your problem. The ecm fuse is number 17 should be a 10amp fuse. That is also the fuse for the maf sensor. The ignition module fuse is number 6 should be a 20amp fuse. These fuses should be under the hood in a black box that says relay center on it. The wiring diagram I am looking at also shows a fusible link in the wire to the ecm. to find this you will have to follow the wire from the ecm to the relay center. should be a orange wire with 440 on it. The numbers may have rubbed off over time. There is 2 wires that come from the ecm and combine into 1 both should be orange the fusible link is after where the wire come together.

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jturcotte_1696.gif


TESTING

E16i, CA16DE and CA18DE Engines
See Figures 1, 2 and 3


0900c152801ce40b.jpg

Fig. Fig. 1: Crank angle sensor testing terminals-CA16DE engine


0900c152801ce40c.jpg

Fig. Fig. 2: Crank angle sensor testing-E16i engine


0900c152801ce40d.jpg

Fig. Fig. 3: Crank angle sensor testing-CA18DE engine

  1. Disconnect the CMP electrical connector.
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    If reading is as specified, proceed to the next step. If reading is not as specified, check power supply circuitry.

  1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
  2. Using an ohmmeter, check the CMP sensor ground circuit, by connecting the meter between a known good engine ground and terminal:

    E16i engine- terminal D . CA16DE and CA18DE engines- terminal A .

  1. Continuity should exist.

    If continuity does not exist, repair open in ground circuit. If continuity does exist, proceed to the next step.
  2. Start the engine.
  3. To test the sensor 180° signal, connect a logic probe between the following terminals:

    E16i and CA18DE engines-ECU terminal 17 and a known good engine ground. CA18DE engine-ECU terminals 21, 31 and a known good engine ground.

  1. To test the sensor 1° signal, connect a logic probe between the following terminals:

    E16i and CA18DE engines-ECU terminal 8 and a known good engine ground. CA18DE engine-ECU terminals 22, 32 and a known good engine ground.

  1. The logic probe should indicate that a pulse signal exists in both tests. If a pulse signal was not present, inspect wiring. If wiring is okay, replace the crank angle sensor.
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My 92 dakota is not getting any spark

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The "Checking For Spark'' test should be performed prior to this test.

This is a basic test of the ignition system that systematically examines the battery, the coil, the engine controller, and its wiring harness and connections; the most likely culprits in a no-start condition at this stage.
88472304.gif

Fabricate this special jumper with a 0.33 MF capacitor in-line to test the ignition coil
Click to Enlarge

  1. Unplug the ignition coil harness connector at the coil.
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88472314.gif

Terminal locations on the engine controller 14-way connector-1989 models
Click to Enlarge 88472305.gif

Engine controller 60-way connector-relevant terminals for testing are shown numbered
Click to Enlarge

  1. Attach one lead of a a voltmeter to the positive (12V) jumper wire. Attach the negative side of the voltmeter to a good ground. Measure the voltage at the battery and confirm that enough current is available to operate the starting and ignition systems.
  2. Crank the engine for five seconds while monitoring the voltage at the coil positive terminal:
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WARNING

The ignition must be turned OFF prior to unplugging the engine controller connector. If it is not, electrical surging could occur causing damage to the unit or other electrical components in the vehicle.

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  1. Remove the test lead from the coil positive terminal. Connect an 18 gauge jumper wire between the battery positive terminal and the coil positive terminal.
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THIS IS TESTING OF DISTRIBUTORLESS IGN
Testing

This procedure requires an ohmmeter to test the coil packs for primary and secondary resistance (specifications are given for an ambient temperature of 70-80°F/21-27°C).
88472320.gif

The two coil packs contain five independent coils, which fire paired cylinders (shown numbered)
Click to Enlarge

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Determine the manufacturer of the coil. It should be labeled either a Diamond or Toyodenso.
88472779.gif

Location of critical terminals for checking the coil primary resistance-V10 engine front coils
Click to Enlarge 88472780.gif

Location of critical terminals for checking the coil primary resistance-V10 engine rear coils
Click to Enlarge

  1. Check the secondary resistance of each individual paired coil by connecting an ohmmeter across the coil towers. This must be done between the correct cylinder pairs: 3/2, 7/4, 1/6, 9/8, or 5/10. Resistance for a Diamond coil should be 11,300-15,300 ohms. For a Toyodenso manufactured coil pack, resistance should be 11,300-13,300 ohms.
88472323.gif

Use an ohmmeter to check secondary resistance as shown

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