On board Diagnostic 10-pin connector

Check the wiring harness connector plug this is situated exiting from the inside front of the door they have a tenancy to corrode the pins usually a clean with abrasive paper and some wd40 does the job

Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable
2. Remove the air breather/cleaner and hose from between the air breather/cleaner and throttle housing
3. Remove the strain of the belt tensioner off the belt and pry off the belt
4. Remove the right front wheel
5. Remove the belt cover & Disconnect the battery Cable and the red alternator power wire.
6. Remove the two Alternator Bolts that secure the alternator to the bracket
7. Remove the three bolts that hold the header pipe up to help give room to remove the alternator
8. Remove the converter bolt from the converter bracket and mover the converter over to aid in the alternator removal
9. Refit in reverse

Working from Top down:
disconnect battery 2) not necessary to remove airfilter box but does give more breathing room for belt removal/instal 3) un-tension serpentine belt with a 1/2" drive long extension in the square of the tensioner & pull towards the front of the car to release the serpentine belt 4) lock tensioner with about a 4mm pin(Allen key will do) by pulling forward with that 1/2"drive extension & pinning the tensioner with that hole 5) remove tensioner with 8mm Allen key or drive(not necessary to remove R side engine mount & raise engine) and be careful to not knock and cause to release the tensioner-they hurt when they snap! 6) remove upper alternator bolt(8mm Allen key/drive).

Working from Bottom of the engine bay:
disconnect cables at alternator(13 & 8 mm nuts) 8) remove R wheel/inner fender skirt that covers the harmonic balancer(10 & 8 mm heads)/ tie back flex hose to strut 9) remove lower alternator bolt(8mm alley key/drive) 10) wedge/rotate out alternator of its mounts 11) disconnect exhaust pipe rubber hangers at catalytic converter and mid section of exhaust 12) you can bend(and later re-bend into position the hanger studs) (OR undo front header studs/nuts to free up the front part of the exhaust) to push over the exhaust and pull out the alternator(pulley nose down)--be careful when getting the alternator out as the downstream O2 sensor is right there(a good precaution would be to remove it)......reverse procedures to install.

USA? what country?
RHD or LHD (right or left hand drive)?????
all usa cars, the 16pin DLC is less than 1meter from the steering wheel.
yours is behind the ash try(pull it)
some old honda's here, usa have dual ways to get scan codes.
the obd2 way , and obd1 way, RTM
read the FSM. or google for that.
I use ,alldata.com for fast answers, saving google searches and bad answers on forums...

fsm quote.
The 16-pin On Board Diagnostic version II (OBD-II) compliant Data Link Connector (DLC) is used to access the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) using an OBD-II compliant Data Scan Tool (DST). It is an electrical connector with a gray housing located under the dash, either near the center console, on the passenger side of the vehicle or to the left of the driver side of the vehicle.
The two wire electrical connector with a blue housing next to the DLC is the Service Check Connector (SCS).

we (uSA have 2 DLCs. one is OBD2 and other is SCS.

id use a real scan tool. and not fool with the old winky blinky bs.
the scan tool you can check all live sensor data.
do that. and win.
1st goggle hit on SCS
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2703528

Hello! The problem is that the Electronic Throttle Motor (ETM) is in limp mode...Most common fault is that the mechanism is fouled with carbon...But first check connector for loose or broken wires...It has a 10 pin connector...Remove and clean motor and throttle body using throttle body cleaner...See attached drawing...It is a procedure to take the motor out of limp mode...

Guru...Saailer



I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

so P, N, and R work just not drive right?

On Right hand drive models you remove carpet like trim by pushing the centre pin in trim buttons in left hand footwell nearest centre. Remove then take of black rectengular cover. I think it's 2 small hexagon screws.
Hope I've remembered that right!.
Cheers
Clive

is there power and ground at the fan connector? 2 pin at back of fan housing. ck with volt meter or test light.

is it a 16v saab with engine code B202 if so it is a three pin connector in the right hand side fuse box. that where auto data is showing it anyway. 

Had same problem, in the boot right hand side, behind the removable panel there is :
1 - a hydraulic reservoir which must be at correct level.
2 - a black box (stc) this controls the roof system,
switch ignition off then pull the 2 connectors off for 30sec then reconnect.
This worked and hope this resolves your problem

It should be on top of the L/H mudguard near fuse box.