The CV shaff has broken off. There are six bolts to hold it together to the transmission. Five of the six bolts have broken off in to the transmission side. Is there away to get the studs out with out dropping the hold transmission down out of the car?

Axle shaft bolt should be torqued to 147 Ft Lbs plus 1/4 turn.

The six CV joint bolts should be 59 Ft Lbs.

Ball joint nut should be 48 Ft Lbs

Hope this helps.

Remove offending wheel and set park brake extremely tight. Remove brake pads from caliper, and then unbolt caliper. Release the park brake. Unbolt the heater supply tube. Remove six 8mm hex bolts on the CV joint near the transmission. Remove axle. Remove four bolts on outside of housing that hold the 2 bearing race retainers. Reinstall new bearing into the housing... again this will require the EBS tool, and of course you'll have to rearrange the parts of the tool. Once the new bearing is installed, reinstall the bearing race retainers and the four screws that hold the retainers. Carefully reinstall the axle, making sure not to push the hub out of the bearing again.Reinstall six 8mm hex bolts holding the CV joint to the transmission. Reinstall rotor then set parking brake extremely tight.Reinstall brake caliper andl brake pads. Reinstall heater supply tube and wheel, torque wheel bolts to 96 ft-lbs, re-install transmission cover and suspension cover. Here you can find the quality parts http://www.carpartswarehouse.com/part/wheel-hub-bearing.html

Disconnect the battery, disconnect the Hydraulic Line from the Slave Cylinder, Remove the Starter (2 bolts, 2 wires. Bolts are 14mm, 1 wire is 12mm, 1 plugs in), Remove the Driveshaft(s) (4 12mm bolts) Remove the 6 bolts from the bellhousing (4 are 14mm, 2 are 10mm)
Remove the bolt from the Transfer Case Mount, 12mm (only if it's a 4WD, if it's 2WD this doesn't apply), remove the 2 bolts that hold the Transmission Mount to the Crossmember (12mm or 14mm, it varies)
Slide the transmission back on the crossmember, away from the engine, I recommend running a ratchet strap across the frame to balance the transmission.
Remove the Pressure Plate from the Flywheel (Six 10mm bolts), Inspect the Pilot Bearing (if it needs replaced, you'll need to remove the Flywheel which is held on with six 18mm bolts, drive out the old bearing and drive in the new one, reinstall the flywheel, using Threadlocker on the bolts, torque the bolts to 100 ft lbs) Install the new clutch disc and Pressure Plate, with the centering tool inserted through the disc into the pilot bearing. Use thread locker on the pressure plate bolts and torque them to 20 ft lbs. Remove the centering/alignment tool after you've bolted it together
Remove old Throw Out bearing from input shaft on the transmission and slide the new one on. Slide the Transmission forward (make sure the input shaft slides into the pilot bearing, don't force the transmission into place or you could damage the clutch disc or break the input shaft) Torque the Bellhousing Bolts to 40 ft lbs (4 14mm bolts), Torque the 2 10mm bolts to 14 ft lbs, Install the Starter (torque bolts to 23 ft lbs), Reconnect Hydraulic Line to Slave Cylinder. Torque Transmission Mount Bolts to 30 ft lbs.
Reinstall Driveshafts, torque bolts on flange/yoke to 40 ft lbs. Fill Clutch Master Cylinder with DOT-3 Brake & Clutch Fluid, Open Bleeder Screw on Slave Cylinder and bleed the air out of the system, close bleeder screw.
Reconnect the wires to the Starter, Reconnect the battery.

pull off tire then take the right socket for your center bolt break bolt loose then pull brakes you will then need to release your strut from your mount then you will need to pull all ball joints you cv joint should then slide right out of transmission then you just slide in the new one then you just put it all back together total job should only take about 3 hrs

Did you take the starter off? The bolts that hold it on are probably holding it together also.

Remove both CV joints(axles) disconnect the bolts around the bellhousing to the engine, remove any electrical connections, the clutch cable, and the transmission mount. After this is done remove transmission from the bottom of the car.

Jack up car and apply e-brake. car will roll if one of the front tires leaves the ground. remove tire , spindal nut and lower ball joint bolts. remove axle from hub then use a prybar to pop it out of trans. the passenger side will have a braket holding axle to engine , remove bolts from braket or squeeze snap-ring to rmove axle from braket.

1)Jack the front of the Chevy Cavalier up and support on jack stands. Remove the front wheels. Turn the ignition key just enough to unlock the steering wheel. 2)Remove the cotter pin and large axle nut retainer in the center of the rotor. Remove the two large bolts and nuts attaching the strut to the spindle. Push in on the CV axle where it protrudes through the center of the rotor and make sure it is loose enough to push out. If it is not loose, then put the axle nut on upside down---turn it for only five to six threads. Tap it with a hammer to push the CV axle out of the hub. 3)Turn the steering outward with the steering wheel--if you are working on the driver's side turn the wheel to the left. This gives sufficient room to remove the axle. The other side should be done in the same manner. Remove the axle nut if you used it to hammer the axle out, then grab the extension of the spindle above the rotor and pull it down and toward you as you grab the CV axle and withdraw it from the hub. 4)Put a drip pan under the CV joint at the point it enters the transmission in case there is any fluid loss. Place the head of the pry bar between the transmission and the CV joint. With a quick snap of the tool separate the CV joint from the transmission. There is a small circlip on the end of the CV joint that keeps it in place. Prying it with a quick snap will overcome the friction of the circlip and the CV joint will pop out. 5)Install the new CV axle by inserting the axle end into the transmission first. It will go in as far as the circlip. Back it out ever so slightly--about a half an inch or so, and sharply shove it in past the circlip. 6)Grab the spindle at the extension above the rotor with the holes for the strut. While pulling down and toward you install the outer end of the CV joint. To do this easily bend the CV joint toward the hole in the rotor and push into the hole while rotating the rotor to line up the splines. 7)Install the retaining nut finger tight. While lifting up on the hub and rotor assembly, push the top of the spindle with the holes in it into the strut and insert the bolts and nuts. Tighten them securely. Torque the large retaining nut to 200 foot pounds. Repeat the same procedure to the other side. Put the wheels on and let the car off the jacks. cheers!!!!!!

a pry bar works the best. First take the bolt out that holds the lower ball joint and the strut together then take the cv bolt out, (impact gun works best) then put the pry bar where the cv joint goes into the transmission,just keep on working with it till it pops out. Be careful sometimes it leaks transmission fluid out. to install push the cv joint in as much as you can then put the nut on and with a hammer or mall it the nut till it pops in and secures then take the nut off and slide it back through the hub and then connect the hub and lower ball joint together. then tighten bolt to specs and repeat for other side.

they are usually bolted in place and will come with new bolts and it simply slips back into place and then secure it with the nut and cotter pin