How to fix the main relay on the 92 haonda

a common problem with accords 1994-1997 accords that crank but will not start is the main fuel injection relay for some reason over time the soldering points inside begin to crack , and they lose contact It's located high up in the dash right above the gas pedal it will say main fuel relay on it. If you have a soldering iron you can fix yourself by re soldering all the solder points inside its pretty easy to do, just go over all solder point, or you can buy a new one around (50.00) bucks, i hope this helps alot of accord owners, good luck.

The fuel pump is relayed by the Main Relay, on your 92 Accord. It is located up under the dash, above the driver's left foot location. Search on this site for Accord main relay diagrams and posts.

your main relay is under driverside dash. i think u have to remove the cruise control box to see the main relay which is close to the steering colom.you will have to get on your back put your head by the pedels.to fix remove relay pry case open redo the solders on the green board. in the heat the solder expands loosing connection. sounds weird but it worked 4 me

a common problem with this year accord was the main relay. they have bad solder joints so when they heat up, the solder joints didn't make good contact, and you have a d4 blinking and no starting problem.

http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelaydefine.html

above is a link on how to locate and remove the main relay, and if money is an issue, use a soldering iron to do the link below because a new main relay is around 50 dollars. its a video to resolder the joints on a main relay of a honda civic, but the same concept applies.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viIZ8k60awY

hope this helps. goodluck

Sounds like a possible problem with the soldering in the main fuel relay. Check out the step by step in this link and see if it helps.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html
summary: The Honda or Acura turns over but won't start in hot weather is asymptom of a main relay going bad. This is the result of the poor solder application from the factory. As a consequence, raise areas on the joint indicate a "dry joint" which can lead to an open circuit. The dry, open circuit is the main cause of no start. This is partly caused by the buildup of heat on the terminals which expand, contract and subject to vibrations. It is likely that a layer of hard oxide has built up inside the solder joint. The layer of hard oxide has to be removed by desoldering. Other than this, there are no known mechanical problem with the main relay.

It is most certainly the "main relay". It's a small gray (sometimes brown) plastic box tucked up behind the left dash vent. It controls the fuel delivery. It's secured with 10mm on top of your cruise control computer. It would be visible with a flashlight if you lay your head on the floor (with your head almost touching your gas pedal, seriously). Unbolt it, unplug it and then carefully pry of the plastic cover. If you have good eyes or look really CLOSE you'll see the cold solder pin (broken connection). The break will be thinner than a human hair. Heat that pin up with a soldering gun and watch it puddle back into shape to make the connection and you're good for another 100k miles :)

Hi,

The main relays on Hondas are well known for failure. Usually due to dry joints inside (solder breaks down after time).

This is the usual location of the main relay (if not there, then look on other side of dash):

http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/5/R/honda_main_relay-a.gif

This is what the relay looks like:

http://i13.ebayimg.com/02/i/000/a8/d9/55c6_1.JPG

If you're technically inclined, you can gently lift the tabs to open the relay...inspect the solder joints with a magnifying glass. Any broken joints, you can attempt to solder the joint correctly, then retry the relay.

Cheers,

My daughter's 1991 Honda Accord did the same thing. I discovered that the main relay had to be replaced. Apparently the solder used in the original main relay was poor and would actually "soften" in the heat and cause a disconnection. When the cabin temperature dropped, the solder would cool and reconnect. Anyway, replacing the main relay worked. My daughter's car has not had this problem since.

Strange headlamp problems on Saabs can often be attributed to a failing Headlamp relay. Here are a few common situations:
Issue1 - Headlamp switch will work backwards: Turn on the switch and theheadlights go off and turn off the switch and the headlights will goon.
Issue 2 - High beams will disappear. You will have nohighbeams. Be sure to check the headlight bulbs PRIOR to ordering therelay. Remember however that it is possible for both high beams burn out at the same time
Issue3 - High beams will not work only the low beams will.
Issue 4 - A single bulb setting (low or high) on either side will not work and bulb replacement will fix it.
You can sometimesfix these issues by removing the relay, taking off the cover andresoldering the connections on the relay bottom. To perform this repair, go to my illustrated tutorial at customsaab.com.
In some cases youwill have to replace the relay to effect a long term cure. The aftermarket replacement can be had at Eeuroparts.com for about $60.00:
Name: Bulb Check Relay
Part Code: 4109070A
Brand:
Description: Bulb check relay for any 9000 92-98, 900 94-98, 9-3 99-03, 9-5 all.

KAE (Kaehler) made in Germany.
Price: $59.90

HI...
On you Honda Accord the main relay is located.
On left side of dash, under the Instrument Panel. Left side of the Steering Column.
To get axces You will need to Remove the Cruise Control Module. That is attached with 2, 10mm screws. one on the Steering column, the other one at the dash braket.
after you remove the cruise control module, you will see a Little Box Gray colour, Is a Relay more biger than a Regular Relay.
The NUMBER on the RELAY is : RZ0088.

OK.. I hope this help on your question.
Thank you for use fixya.